My_xxxth_Avatar Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 I like to use an overhand backed up by half of a doublefisherman's knot, especially when climbing da Toof in the midst of a group of M's. It makes them shake their heads in wonderment, whisper amongst themselves, and maintain their distance. It's really funny to watch it come back around when I'm rapping back by and note that the dead chunk of wood they're all anchored to at the top of the 2nd pitch could easily snap and send them all to their doom...they REALLY need to change their SOP document for that climb. Quote
Coopah Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Just use a bowline backed up using a yosemite finish...easier to untie after it's been loaded. Quote
Smoker Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 I'm with you Coop. If I'm craggin I use the DB with a Yos finish, but I have had it invert if the knot is not dressed neat. I use a figure 8 for multi pitch. Quote
Lambone Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 I can never remember how to tie a bowline...haven't been able too since boy scouts, must be some sort of mental block... Quote
aint_this_great Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 oh come on! the rabbit comes out of the hole, goes around the tree, does the hokey pokey, and goes back into the hole. sheesh! I'm just kidding. I can never remember how to tie the damn thing either. Quote
sobo Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Double bowline with half of a double fisherman's (or grapevine, same thing). Since only one strand is being wound around a standing line and threaded back through the windings, it's only a half of a grapevine. Not to be a smarty-pants or anything, Bill. Quote
snoboy Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Lambone said: I can never remember how to tie a bowline...haven't been able too since boy scouts, must be some sort of mental block... There's a good way I could teach you, but I can't describe it. Quote
thelawgod Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 I always tie in with a Dan---Overhand knot, backed up with BS. Quote
micajones Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Try a half-windsor for a smart looking harness. A four-in-hand will let 'em know you ain't there to clip bolts. Quote
EWolfe Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 Swedish bowline for me (bowline with a clove hitch) - I can think of several advantages over the figure-of-eight: 1. Easier to untie after loading 2. the tail is pointed towards you and out of the way for short clipping 3. Its an adjustable knot 4. When you untie, there is no additional knot to undo before pulling the rope (it sux getting "half" an 8 locked at the anchors) 5. There is no "wrong" way to do the Swedish bowline, unlike the fig 8 where the threading can get mucked. 6. It freaks the proctors at the REI pinnacle out Quote
RuMR Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 aint_this_great said: oh come on! the rabbit comes out of the hole, goes around the tree, does the hokey pokey, and goes back into the hole. sheesh! I'm just kidding. I can never remember how to tie the damn thing either. I thought that was sex... Quote
Wallstein Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 1. Easier to untie after loading 2. the tail is pointed towards you and out of the way for short clipping 3. Its an adjustable knot 4. When you untie, there is no additional knot to undo before pulling the rope (it sux getting "half" an 8 locked at the anchors) 5. There is no "wrong" way to do the Swedish bowline, unlike the fig 8 where the threading can get mucked. 6. It freaks the proctors at the REI pinnacle out #1 Correct the bowline does untie easier after being loaded and also comes untied when you don't want it to. #2 A fig8 can be tied so the tail faces the harness also. Pick up craig luebben book for a pic of this. #3 So is a fig8, unless you are talking about when its loaded. #4 When I untie my fig8 knot there doesn't seem to be any knot left in the rope... #5 There is a wrong way to tie any knot. #6 Using some funky knot to freak people is about as stupid as it gets. I try and not freak people out when i climb. I can think of one major disadvantage of using a bowline. Many people (lambone )don't know how to tie a bowline, especially the "sweedish bowline." I like to be able to glance at a partners harness to check that the knot was tied correctly. This is much easier to do with a figure8 Quote
Wallstein Posted May 9, 2003 Posted May 9, 2003 erik said: Bronco said: Wallstein is aid! I CANT AGREE MORE! Erik = A5 = sketchy Quote
tshimko Posted June 4, 2003 Posted June 4, 2003 There's something about the conscious act of tying in with a figure 8 that appeals to me. I know someone who was handed a figure 8 on the end of a toprope, clipped it to their locking biner, and at the top of the pitch, leaned back to be lowered, and fell to the ground. Unfortunately the locking biner was on their gear loop. Quote
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