RuMR Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 So...give me a hit list of free climbs in the 10a to 11+/12- range to try...we're leaving the 21 of may...can't wait to shove off from this f-ing cubefarm job nightmare... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday. Haven't done Sons yet, but it is the reason people climb Serenity Crack from what I hear. Avoid it on a weekend... If you're there for long enough time your rest days for weekends or climb obscure routes on those days. One adventure with only 1-2 5.10 moves is Overhanging Bypass on Lower Cathedral. It was one of my favorites last spring. An old school route with great views. Another weekend adventure climb is Absolutely Free 5.9 (I think) on the Lower Brother butress. You'll have the whole place to yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 7, 2003 Author Share Posted May 7, 2003 20+ views and only ehmic replies? YOU GUYS ARE LLLLLLLLLLLLAAAAAAAAAAME Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 7, 2003 Author Share Posted May 7, 2003 thanks ehmmic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 See this place needs a rock climbing forum!  Here is an abbreviated hit list of my favs mostly at the bottom of the valley.  Arch Rock Anticpation Blotto (AKA Axis) Gripper New D Torque Converter  Cookie Hardd Crack A Go Go Red Zinger Meat Grinder Nabisco Wall all variations including Aftershock Start Catchy with Catchy corner  Pinky Paralysis –my fav TR Fish Crack  Moratorium A three pitch semi traversing route new moratorium whose name I forget really good.  Texas Chain Saw Massacre  Hot Line  All the mid height cracks on the Rostrum  PP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Are you looking to crag or do long routes?  Craggin I would say, everything at the cookie and arch rock. There are some good warm up routes on the left side of el cap. Sacherer cracker and moby dick are good intro's. Theres good craggin off the midway ledge on the rostrum, around the 11+ range. Cascade falls also has some good craggin albeit kinda hard. Crimson Cringe is probably the best 12- in the park, mega hand jamming indurance. Tips is another good one around there, sorta contrieved start but an amazing splitter.  For long routes, I would definetely say the Rostrum, amazing handjamming! Serenity to sons of yesterday is great once you get past the first shitty pitch. NE buttress (or the crucifix at 5.10 A0 or 12b) of higher Cathedral rock is also a must do. Regular route on higher cathedral Spire is also a very entertaing outing at 5.9, can you say old skewl.  Theres some good bolt clippin at chapel wall, if your into that sort of thing. The great escape is classic with 3 pitches of mid 5.11, all bolted  Theres also this place called swan slab.....it great!  Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 PERSONALLY RECOMMEND THE BOULDER PROBLEM "BABY ORCA" Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 7, 2003 Author Share Posted May 7, 2003 Hey thanks PP and Wallstein...i hit the cookie for a morning a while ago (family vacation, not much climbing) and had a blast...Cookie's definitely on the list...this is mainly a "cragging" trip... Â Erik, you implying i'm a fat baby??????????????????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 Baby Orca is way out of my leage! In fact it shut down the "famous" Cedar Wright. Erik snagged the first ascent of it, hence the name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 7, 2003 Author Share Posted May 7, 2003 What/where is it????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 I think you gotta get real stoned and drunk and then some portal opens up down by happy isles. Its a magical thing.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 near the water tower near happy isles... Â it is 3 mantles in a row! with a death landing!!! Â it is the highlight of my climbing carrer!!! outc limbed cedar and chili dog!!!! hows dem apples! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 7, 2003 Author Share Posted May 7, 2003 sweet!!!!! I suck at mantles! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 we sent some other really good problems down there in the happy isles!! Â and wallstein gave the approach beta!!! Â Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 You gotta do the quintissential long routes too: Â E Butt El Cap (10b, one move) NE Butt Higher Catherdral (5.9 ) Sons - Serenity (10d good times) Â And 2 I haven't done yet: Steck-Salathe on the Sentinel Reg. Route Half Dome in a day (get the beta from Wallstein) Â Have Fun Tenaya Boy!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Off_White Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 A little research revealed that the old bolts have been replaced on Stoners Highway and Freewheelin (middle cathedral) and Shaky Flakes (Royal Arches), all routes that would be on my wishlist, and are not likely to be busy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 7, 2003 Share Posted May 7, 2003 we sent some other really good problems down there in the happy isles!! Â better get that bouldering shiznit outa your head erik... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted May 7, 2003 Author Share Posted May 7, 2003 Lambone said: we sent some other really good problems down there in the happy isles!! Â better get that bouldering shiznit outa your head erik... Yeah no doubt...next thing you know, you'll be pounding pins into a 15 foot boulder and incurring the wrath of LAMEBONE ...or was it lamb-bone? OhshitIdon'tknow... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lunger Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 ditto special's list. Â perhaps a warm-up for your itinerary--on and around reed's pinnacle also a worthy .5-1 day craggin' stop: reed's direct (after the sweet big hands crack, don't miss the squeeze chimney--only 10a though--on the rt. side o' the pinnacle) lunatic fringe 10c, fairly sustained, supreme climb a good-looking 10b in the area that i didn't climb check a guidebook for some others 'round there... Â the good book (forget which area) is also nice after the first pitch. 10d and harder above if you like. enjoy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 That 10a chimney on Reed's is rather testy. Â Man I wanted to the Good Book too but never got around to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 Too bad the Good Book is a death trap now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 Don't think anybody's mentioned Stone Groove at Reed's. Awesome 10b finger locks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 rudy, some of the routes are ok, but shit compared to Astroman! another very good one is "Good Book". Do astroman, rostrum, moratorium and don't bother with enything else, well maybe add nw of half dome in a day. this should make your week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IceScrewed Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 While some of these may be 'rated' 5.9 I'd put them on your list: NE Butt Higher Catherdral E Butt El Cap E Butt Middle Catherdral DNB NW Face Half Dome Regular Route Fairview Dome That'll keep ya busy and smilin' Enjoy! Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texplorer Posted May 8, 2003 Share Posted May 8, 2003 If your feeling truly burly there's always -Separate Reality .11d  I agree with the Spec. Ed. and the others here. Steck Salathe is my favorite climb ever but you really can't go wrong in the valley. Have fun and post a TR. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.