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Wish list for YOS...


RuMR

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Serenity Crack to Sons of Yesterday. Haven't done Sons yet, but it is the reason people climb Serenity Crack from what I hear. Avoid it on a weekend... If you're there for long enough time your rest days for weekends or climb obscure routes on those days. One adventure with only 1-2 5.10 moves is Overhanging Bypass on Lower Cathedral. It was one of my favorites last spring. An old school route with great views. Another weekend adventure climb is Absolutely Free 5.9 (I think) on the Lower Brother butress. You'll have the whole place to yourself.

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See this place needs a rock climbing forum!

 

Here is an abbreviated hit list of my favs mostly at the bottom of the valley.

 

Arch Rock

Anticpation

Blotto (AKA Axis)

Gripper

New D

Torque Converter

 

Cookie

Hardd

Crack A Go Go

Red Zinger

Meat Grinder

Nabisco Wall all variations including Aftershock Start

Catchy with Catchy corner

 

Pinky Paralysis –my fav

TR Fish Crack

 

Moratorium

A three pitch semi traversing route new moratorium whose name I forget really good.

 

Texas Chain Saw Massacre

 

Hot Line

 

All the mid height cracks on the Rostrum

 

PP bigdrink.gif

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Are you looking to crag or do long routes?

 

Craggin I would say, everything at the cookie and arch rock. There are some good warm up routes on the left side of el cap. Sacherer cracker and moby dick are good intro's. Theres good craggin off the midway ledge on the rostrum, around the 11+ range. Cascade falls also has some good craggin albeit kinda hard. Crimson Cringe is probably the best 12- in the park, mega hand jamming indurance. Tips is another good one around there, sorta contrieved start but an amazing splitter.

 

For long routes, I would definetely say the Rostrum, amazing handjamming! Serenity to sons of yesterday is great once you get past the first shitty pitch. NE buttress (or the crucifix at 5.10 A0 or 12b) of higher Cathedral rock is also a must do. Regular route on higher cathedral Spire is also a very entertaing outing at 5.9, can you say old skewl.

 

Theres some good bolt clippin at chapel wall, if your into that sort of thing. The great escape is classic with 3 pitches of mid 5.11, all bolted

 

Theres also this place called swan slab.....it great! yellaf.gif

 

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Hey thanks PP and Wallstein...i hit the cookie for a morning a while ago (family vacation, not much climbing) and had a blast...Cookie's definitely on the list...this is mainly a "cragging" trip...

 

Erik, you implying i'm a fat baby??????????????????? hahaha.gifevils3d.gif

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You gotta do the quintissential long routes too:

 

E Butt El Cap (10b, one move)

NE Butt Higher Catherdral (5.9 yellaf.gif)

Sons - Serenity (10d good times)

 

And 2 I haven't done yet:

Steck-Salathe on the Sentinel

Reg. Route Half Dome in a day (get the beta from Wallstein)

 

fruit.gif Have Fun Tenaya Boy!!

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Lambone said:

we sent some other really good problems down there in the happy isles!!

 

better get that bouldering shiznit outa your head erik... the_finger.gif

Yeah no doubt...next thing you know, you'll be pounding pins into a 15 foot boulder and incurring the wrath of LAMEBONE madgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gif...or was it lamb-bone? OhshitIdon'tknow...

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ditto special's list.

 

perhaps a warm-up for your itinerary--on and around reed's pinnacle also a worthy .5-1 day craggin' stop:

reed's direct (after the sweet big hands crack, don't miss the squeeze chimney--only 10a thoughsmirk.gif--on the rt. side o' the pinnacle)

lunatic fringe 10c, fairly sustained, supreme climb

a good-looking 10b in the area that i didn't climb

check a guidebook for some others 'round there...

 

the good book (forget which area) is also nice after the first pitch. 10d and harder above if you like. enjoy! thumbs_up.gif

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