erik Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 you mean the roof or the loose block? Â roof is weasy with a bolt where ya need it. Â loose block is doable with the pull of a few pieces. Â you should just go out and discover it for yourself. Â have fun and be safe. Â Â Quote
mattp Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 If you are worried about the technical aid above the roof, a cheater's stick may get you past some aid placements there if you don't mind hooking some frayed bit of cable that you can't inspect before you weight it. That would be cheating, though. Quote
dalius Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 Cheater's stick on Liberty Crack!?! No way! Â I second Erik and say go out there and discover. I don't think the crux is at the roof though, isn't it more like the aiding between the 2 cracks on the pitch after the roof? Â Anybody know how often those bashies are known to come out? It seems like it would be a good idea to take a bashie or two and throw a hammer in the bag just in case you get there are they're gone or you rip one out. Quote
Wallstein Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 Ah just clip them for pro and free climb past them... Quote
David_Parker Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 In 1986 it was a flaring seam on the pitch after the lip we pounded a #2 stopper into. I still have it! The crux for me was learning how to jug over the lip. Quote
mattp Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 Considering just such tactics, wasn't it Ivan Coonyard who posed the question: when does a nut become a pin? Quote
Bug Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 mattp said: Considering just such tactics, wasn't Ivan Coonyard who posed the question: when does a nut become a pin? When he is hanging upside down in his kayak under a shallow drop. Quote
chucK Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 erik said: you mean the roof or the loose block? Â What loose block? Quote
specialed Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 That one big chossy block that's loose with a manky fixed pin. Most people use one or two points of aid to get thru Quote
gnibmilc Posted May 7, 2003 Posted May 7, 2003 the crux may be the yellow rotten rock thru the small roof with the bad pin and bolt above the slab high up on the route. at least half of the bolt shank is visible and the pin flexes and dumps oat meal in your mouth when you yard on it. that thing is a lotto. Quote
scott Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 if you have some offsets, the second aid pitch is no real problem. the third pitch has manky fixed gear, but you can just move off them quickly, then to a good cam crack. i thought the rotten block was fine, but the belay above the rotton block is three button bolts. there is a shallow thin crack above the rotton block that stays in the corner and goes up over a three foot roof. a slab move or two below and at this roof, i thought this was the crux. this will certainly be the crux if you don't use long runners on this pitch, since it moves back out of the corner after the little roof and there can be major rope drag problems, and some slighly flaring cam placements (but easy climbing). then you have a nice ledge for the last technical pitch. this route is really fun and is easy in a day, especially if you fix the first two. Quote
specialed Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 The only pitches you should actually bust out the aiders and shit for is the lip pitch and the next one. Everything else you can just pull on gear if you need. The first pitch is an excellent 11a finger crack! The best pitch of the route. Quote
AlpineK Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 tell me about the crux on liberty crack please  NO Quote
Sloth_Man Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 Liberty crack is the easiest climb I've ever done. Â The roof is cake. Â The A3 above is A1-. Â All the free stuff can be pulled through. Â The block looks geologically loose, but better than many other things I've climbed around. It too is cake. Â I'd rate it Grade IV 5.7 A1-. Quote
Sloth_Man Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 I remember the pitch after the roof going easy on cams. I don't remember any bashies. They shouldn't be neccesary. Quote
darkstar Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 Yeah, I don't know what all this talk about bashies is all about either. That climb really is a cakewalk. I remember pretty easy and well-protectable free climbing after you pull the lip. I say take a small rack and have fun! Quote
Lambone Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 Should you need a light axe on the descent this time of year? Quote
erik Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 NOT REALLY- PERSONAL DECISION THO Â IF YOU HAD A HAUL BAG THEN PROLLY Â Â Quote
specialed Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 Sloth_Man said: I remember the pitch after the roof going easy on cams. I don't remember any bashies. They shouldn't be neccesary. Â I think there's fixed bashies. That pitch is "scarier" than the lip b/c there's multiple moves on fixed manky gear, but really really straight forward. The lip is a bit more strenuous but never far above a solid piece. Quote
Lambone Posted May 8, 2003 Posted May 8, 2003 fuck the haul bag... Â 1 lite pack(hopefully) is all... Quote
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