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EWolfe

Biggest Whipper!!!

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My biggest whipper was off of Chain Reaction at Smith. I missed the pocket around the arete below the roof, dynoed for the jug at the lip, missed it, and flew out. I smacked into the wall near the first bolt, and sprained my ankle. Pretty unimpressive compared to all the ones listed here.

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Fall or slide? I rocketed down Eliot towards the top of snow dome after catching a crampon point on the leg of my bibs whilst descending. Fell at least 75 feet, pulling the middle guy off his feet before he was able to self arrest. Came to a stop dangling over the lip of a crevasse. Saved by one ice screw my partner, in the lead, had placed just a few moments before. The rest of the walk-off was slow, deliberate and painful with a couple of cracked ribs.

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~30+ feet onto on ice screw while climbing in a stunning cravasse, mid-winter in Antarctica.

 

surface ice plated off, and the ice screw bent ~30-40degrees.

 

doh.

 

damn glad it held, considering the next flight off the continent wasn't for another couple of months.

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First true ice climb I fell about 15 feet onto an ice screw, stopping me about a foot of the ground with one of my tools where I had last placed it. No injuries.

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I was on an easy slabby crack, climbing very quickly. Fingers slipped out and I stood up just out of balance with the crack just inches out of reach. It felt like it was all in show motion as I fell backwards, head first, back on the wall. I only slid 25 feet or so on my back before stopping with my head about a foot above a ledge. I almost didn't place that last cam that cought me. If I hadn't things would have been very bad.

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I've gone 20 feet on a sport route before. Clean fall, nothing but air. Kind of fun actually.

 

Same distance on trad- we were climbing at Devils Tower, and I was leading the first pitch of SOLER. It was 105 degrees on the face that day, and I was 10 feet shy of the anchors on the 150 foot pitch. I plugged in a yellow alien, which was too small for the crack but my only option, and moved up on a jam. I reached for the jug inside the crack, and in doing so lost my feet. For a second I was hanging on a hand jam, which then slipped, sending me for the ride. The cam held, though.

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800 ft up Royal arches variation. Fell 60 ft. Cratered on ledge. Unhurt. Why use ropes?

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alpinefox took a good 15 footer last night when the silver tcu blewout during a short fall on sloe children.

what a great crack..gotta love those perfect fingerlocks.

 

BUG-

yes ropes are very over-rated. solo naked, it is the way of the future.

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40 footer on the approach pitches to Girth Pillar. Hold broke off. Broke both arms, head injury, ankle fuked up, one arm partially severed by the rope, radial head snapped off, bone poking out, the whole nine yards. SUPER strong partner lowered and short roped me to the moraine and we hiked out with a nice couple.

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40 footer on the approach pitches to Girth Pillar. Hold broke off. Broke both arms, head injury, ankle fuked up, one arm partially severed by the rope, radial head snapped off, bone poking out, the whole nine yards. SUPER strong partner lowered and short roped me to the moraine and we hiked out with a nice couple.

 

OK. But were you naked?

 

Bummer dude. That sounds harsh. wave.gif

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800 ft up Royal arches variation. Fell 60 ft. Cratered on ledge. Unhurt. Why use ropes?

 

Were you right above 2 fixed pins under a little bulge.. I took a big whipper there when my foot got stuck in the crack.

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40 footer on the approach pitches to Girth Pillar. Hold broke off. Broke both arms, head injury, ankle fuked up, one arm partially severed by the rope, radial head snapped off, bone poking out, the whole nine yards. SUPER strong partner lowered and short roped me to the moraine and we hiked out with a nice couple.

 

OK. But were you naked?

 

Bummer dude. That sounds harsh. wave.gif

 

Yes, I was naked, under my clothes.

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1980, Hall of Mirrors, 35, 40, and 50 footers. By far the scariest fall(s) were ones I saw. Rat taking 35 and 40 falls on the Bold Bob pitch, Direct North Face of Liberty Bell, second ascent. I also saw Lee Cunningham take a shit load of whippers on the ZM.

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alpinfox took a good 15 footer last night when the silver tcu [metolius 00] blewout during a short fall on sloe children.

what a great crack..gotta love those perfect fingerlocks.

 

hahaha.gif I think it was a little further than 15 feet, but yeah, good fun. First time I have ever pulled a piece of gear! thumbs_up.gif Glad I've gotten that out of system. Now I hope it never happens again. Thanks for catchin' me Sizzy!

 

That route seriously:

rockband.giffruit.gifrockband.gif

 

673718_4562.jpg

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Caught on a body belay? 140 footer after he slipped of the ramp pitch on Liberty Crack, 1975. Partner ended up eye to eye with me. It got our attention. Mine for the rest of the day. His for several weeks.

 

Taken? 50 footer on a 70 foot sport climb. Partner was done belaying, somehow thinking I was done climbing being only an arms reach from the chains on easy ground. That onto a 2" webbing swami. Annoying and enough flight time to be scary but not all that painful smile.gif Makes those first 20 and 30 footers seem pretty tame in retrospect wink.gif

 

The trick is not to hit anything! He did, I didn't.

 

Dumbest? Tired on the second day HD's NWF. Too lazy to pull my sorry ass back on to thankgod ledge with the pack on. Somehow I thought a pendulum to the end of the rope would be just fine. Cut loose and let 'er rip. A seemingly HUGE swing and an even longer drop that I hadn't calulated in my feeeble brain, beat the shit out of me as I bounced across the face and cut the sheath on my brand new 11mm. How far? No clue past, too damn far! A lesson well learned, let your partner carry all the shit and follow you on his new rope. smileysex5.gif

 

Broke both arms, head injury, ankle fuked up, one arm partially severed by the rope, radial head snapped off, bone poking out, the whole nine yards.

 

That is some narly shit! How long did it take to heal up? Have you sold the movie rights yet bigdrink.gif

 

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That is some narly shit! How long did it take to heal up? Have you sold the movie rights yet bigdrink.gif

 

I was climbing in the Tetons 6 weeks later, although it hurt a lot.

 

A British 'True Tales of Survival Show' contacted me about producing the story for a segment, but the logistics of filming on the NF of Stuart scared them off. Go figure.

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Climbing; 25' on the 4th pitch of "Jules Verne" on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon. The just of it was a dislocated shoulder and broken elbow.

 

Surfing; 1997 Mavericks in Half Moon Bay, 30 to 50 foot swells. Lost a great surfer and great person Mark Foo that day in December. Pro's die too.

Aloha Mark......

Mahalo

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Surfing; 1997 Mavericks in Half Moon Bay, 30 to 50 foot swells. Lost a great surfer and great person Mark Foo that day in December. Pro's die too.

Aloha Mark......

Mahalo

 

Were you there??

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Yes I was there.

Wanted to play with the big boys, had surfer other big waves. Way to big for me I punked out and sat on my board just outside the point. I new Mark Foo from home, truly great person and natural surfer.

I still go back to Mavericks everytime I visit my folks.

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If falls on snow count I slid, tumbled, and flipped down pretty much the whole gully on the south side of Shuksan a few years ago. how far is that, 300-400ft? Only thing that got wrecked were my goretex pants from my ice axe ripping them and some skin missing from sliding on snow at high speed.

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