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Trip: Index - Upper Town Wall - Swim + FFA of Free Swim Date: 8/10/2011 Trip Report: Another great Upper Wall route. I first tried Swim a couple weeks ago and got a little pushed around up there to say the least. But I wasn't all that surprised as this is usually the case on Upper Wall climbs. My second time on the route I choose the solo top rope mini trax mission. While dangling around up there doing some scrubbing and TR'ing I got the bright idea of trying to free a variation around the original 4th pitch A0 bolt ladder. On first inspection I didn't think it would be to bad. The free variation would start up the shallow corner of Steel Pole Bathbtub and then diagonal left across the bolt ladder onto an old aid pitch I put up 10+ years. Only problem was a fairly large (6ft tall) and loose toothpick shaped block that was barely attached. This thing had to go. And it went without much of a fight. To my dismay my original thought about the pitch looking easy was proved wrong. It was going to actually take some work to do and well to be honest I wasn't so keen on starting another involved project as my schedule was already pretty booked. But for some stupid reason I still got all excited about the project... and I'm bad at saying NO to good climbing. So after a couple more days of work up there which involved a bit of scrubbing and some bolting it was ready to go. My luck with the weather has been great lately. Lows 60's and a chance of rain in the forecast meant good sending temps. Thankfully for me I found a stoked partner, Rachel, that would be game to go have a little adventure up there with me. We met up at the parking lot a little before 3pm, which is a perfect time to start an Upper Wall route if you plan on climbing by headlamp... (Rachel following the 2nd pitch 11d) It felt nice to be grabbing freshly brushed holds and knowing where to go this time. The climbing was actually enjoyable. We quickly made it the big ledge at the base of the 4th pitch and the new free variation. I opted to pull through on draws for a quick refresher of the moves and one last brush of the holds. I came down, pulled the rope, put on a tighter pair of shoes and headed back up. I had worked the pitch just the right amount. I definitely wasn't sure i was going to send and had to improvise a few of the moves but I managed to make it through without incident. After the funky compact smeary corner crux the climbing eases off to cool, fun and casual 5.10 and eventually meets back up with the original route near the anchors. I can't really figured what to grade the pitch so I'm going to say Index,11d which in my opinion has ZERO correlation to Yosemite Decimal System. IF it were in Yosemite, it would probably be somewhere closer to 12/12+ (the upper 5.10 portion of the new variation) Rachel followed giving it a good effort but had to resort to a bit of Batman technique through the crux. The next 11b pitch went down with out much of fight though the sun had still managed to slip perilously close to the horizon. Rachel hurried up the pitch feeling the encroaching darkness. Only two more pitches to... (good light and a shitty iPhone camera) I crept up one more 11+ techy slab and nearly blew it on some dirty 5.10 that I mistakenly had not cleaned or climbed previously. I probably should of brought a head lamp as the climbing surely would of been easier if I could see. Thankfully Rachel was kind enough to let me borrow her headlamp for the last pitch so I could figure out where to go. At somewhere close to 9:45 I topped out. I sure am good at turning a 7 pitch route into an adventure. Gear Notes: Mostly clips and slings with a few wedges thrown in for good measure. Approach Notes: Snohomish --> Lyndseys Lattes in Sultan --> Index town store for a croissant sammy --> Trail --> Bolts --> Top

Trip: Adams Gl Headwall, FA- "Ice Extension" - IV-AI4, expect some mixed Date: 7/4/2011 Trip Report: It is a testament to El-Nino and an open minded approach to ice climbing that an interesting new route was enjoyed on the 4th of July in 2011. It also was made possible by being at the high altitude of Mt Adams,- The shade of a northwest face, -and a tough young lady with an eye for ice. Anastasia/Mitochondria enticed me with the following email: Hey Wayne,I was wondering if you would be interested in trying a new variation on the Adams Headwall with me (at >11k) which I spotted last year from the Stormy Monday Couloir.In short, it includes 2 pitch of WI3-4(?) (and it was in through July last year) followed by 60-70 deg alpine ice/rock (more ice early in the season I bet) to get to the rim at about 11500 Here is a few pics from the last year (mid July!) and I can dig more out if needed:WI pitch -longer than it looks on the pic – and probably fatter earlier in the season, stays in shade pretty much all day – cuz it is buried in the buttress: [....mitos pic from last year here, picture on my blog....] Knowing that you are into exploring the new lines on old big volcanoes, I thought I would ask But I understand if you have other priorities/interests. Let me know.Anastasia Given my history of trying anything once, we did the long, snowy approach on Sunday the 3rd and the route on a brutal 22hr Monday, July 4.(counting the drive back). I always forget how big these Monster-Volcanos are. That tiny looking cliff is actually 2 pitches. The whole route is over 3000 feet tall, with several technical pitches along the top of it. After sharing the first half of the "Stormy Monday Couloir" we soloed the first steps. Then got after the middle pitches, the first was a 50m WI3+. Mito tackled the 30m 2nd pitch. After the middle pitches, it became a real struggle to find a way up the overhanging 60m rock band at the top. I began a traverse to the left hoping it would allow me get to the summit snow-slopes. It went on for quite a ways until I found the way through. It was an awesome pitch. Vertical ice and rock followed by a short overhang with”good” rime to pull up on. Such a great finish to a long ice season. The Line The Approach Camping out at 8k Camping out at 8k Camping out at 8k Mito soloing the first pitch WI2, mixed Mitochondria on The middle Pitches Mito Leading Middle Pitches Mito Before the Traverse Mito resting the calves mid Traverse The Traverse A wtf moment on the crux, Mito on the crux last pitch, AI4, mixed Topping out The exhausted team on the top. It was a fine route that extended our ice season into extra innings. A few memories that stand out for me are the extra 3 miles each way on the snowy road, both of my crampons almost falling off while soloing the first middle pitches, the amazing crux pitch, Mitos uncontrolled exuberance after doing her dream route. Special thanks to Jim at Pro Mt Sports for the last minute gear grab! More on my blog below.

Trip: Harrison Bluffs - FA Wildcat (32m 5.8) and Surprise Fall Date: 6/16/2011 Trip Report: So I haven't really been doing any trips lately, I have an upcoming deadline to graduate and I've been spending the last 4 months working on that. But hell, it's spring, you can't think about school all the time. So I've been going over to Harrison Bluffs for the last month or so and cleaning a new route, a couple hours at a time. Not the hardest or even the best route at Harrison, this rig takes a slabby buttress rising out of the forest. A boulder problem start leads to a curving handcrack to a small ledge and then a featured slab to the top. Nothing too hard, one boulder move and then mostly 5.7 with a three move 5.8 crux on the upper slab. Hopefully a good warmup/moderate route as Harrison has to date been lacking in those (at least ones that stay clean - a couple of easier routes put up in the 90s are fully overgrown). So anyways I got this thing all clean last weekend and did a no-falls burn up it using my Ushba on the fixed line to check out the moves and figure out bolt locations and number. At the time it seemed totally cruisable and I thought about just soloing the FA and placing bolts later but it was the end of a 5 hr scrub session and I was out of water so I just went home instead. Hmm. Went back yesterday and Ushba'd up the fixed rope again placing four bolts and doing the moves one more time. Normally I bolt on rappel and it was interesting to try this bolting-while-pseudo-toproping approach, the drill weighs less than I thought it would but it's still more involved frigging around than it is on rap (mostly with respect to keeping the hot drillbit off the rope and/or the legs after the hole is made). So Shaun showed up and belayed me while I sent the rig, except that things did not go as planned. 25m up the route I stand on a good foot ledge right below the final bolt - a ledge I have stood on with full body weight several times now and which appears to be totally monolithically solid) and am about to clip in when my feet do a Wile Coyote spinning on air dance and I can't hold on and I'm airborne. Suddenly I'm taking a 10m slab fall. WTF? And Shaun mentions he had to dodge a big rock. So when I reclimb the route on the next redpoint (WTF, two redpoint attempts on a 5.8?) it does turn out the big foot ledge below the last bolt is suddenly 50% missing. A brand new scar. Somehow that super solid ledge broke off under full body weight. And this is granite that appeared 100% solid during my last month of scrubbing attempts... The rest of the route goes fine and we climb a couple other routes nearby before the rain starts but, I'm thinking back now, FUCK ME I'm glad I didn't decide to solo that thing last weekend! I'd be in the hospital for sure and possibly even dead. We ended up calling the route Wildcat btw due to a bobcat that was prowling around the base while Shaun was waiting and I was bolting. Gear Notes: 3 or so cams in the hand size range (0.75 to 2 Camalot) and four bolts. Approach Notes: Park by the golf course and walk in on powerline road 5 minutes to the crag trail. This line goes up the slabby right side of he arete forming the right end of the Wayback Layback wall.

First Ascent of the White Chick “White Chick” (Pk 5884 southeast of White Chuck Mountain) May 21, 2011 Personnel: Paul Klenke, Stefan Feller, Martin Shetter, and Fay Pullen (the token white chick). Stefan says he likes my trip reports because I always put in so much detail. Well for this report, I’m not gonna. Why? Becuase I’m a busy family man. Plus, I’m 40 now, so I’m old(er), and stupid(er), and out-of-shape®. Here are some views of White Chick, the rocky bump to the right of White Chuck: [img:center]http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/79240.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/96702.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/186265.jpg[/img] We met in Seattle at 4:45am, which is usually REM time for me, not RPM time. So motoring to the Park ‘n Ride was a catatonic affair. But there they were, the OTHERS, waiting for me, already there, already laughing about something. Anyway, Stefan drove to the “trailhead.” Well first he drove to the Darrington gas station (I know it well, as do you) so I could purchase an energy drink. What? Two for one? I’m all over that like crappy snow on a Cascades ski resort. Here is White Chick from the bridge over the river: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/599x401xWChi01_fr_river_bridge_I_sm.JPG.pagespeed.ic.AsoHnu-gmb.jpg[/img] We started at 6:45 on the overgrown logging road at the head of Dan Creek (elevation 1970 ft). The first obstacle was Black Oak Creek where the bridge had either slumped and disappeared or had been removed. All that remains is a large rusted girder and very steep banks. The Black Oak Creek washout (the banks are steeper than they look): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi03_Black_Oak_Cr_washout_I_sm.JPG[/img] After this creek that reminds me of a Soundgarden song, we walked the remaining three miles of mossy road eastward and upward. The annoying windfall decreased, but the annoying snow cover increased (plod plod plod). At 3400 feet we came to the end of the roadway at a spur ending in a regrowing clearcut. We avoided this wetness and arced around it through nice old growth (some big trees here). The old road: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi04_old_logging_road_sm.JPG[/img] Stefan and I descended steep duff a couple of hundred vertical into the big gully beyond the last clearcut. But Martin and Fay pullened it and took the ridge upward paralleling the west side of the gully. They essentially got cliffed out while Stefan and I easily ascended the avalanche debris escalator to approximately 4000 ft. We only lost about 20 minutes waiting for them. A view of the big gully (my wife said the snow fooled her into thinking it was a white-water torrent): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi05_the_big_gully_I_sm.JPG[/img] The cliffy west side of the gully at 4000 ft (Stefan's in this photo; he pulled his pants up just in time…): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi09_north_side_of_gully_sm.JPG[/img] That mountain whose name I forget as seen from the big gully: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi08_Forgotten_fr_gully34_sm.JPG[/img] I took off to break trail up and right from the gully, traversing more rightward than upward to avoid the likely cliffs obliquely abutting the gully. Since I’m old(er) and fat(ter), Stefan eventually caught up to me and finished the remainder of the slog up to the base of the rocks, which finally opened up to us at 5300 ft. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi10_Stefan_at_5300_ft_sm.JPG[/img] A view of the northwest side of the summit rocks (this is about as good as the views got on this day): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi11_at_5400_ft_sm.JPG[/img] I took a brief second shot at kicking steps before motorfoot stomped past me. We took a snowy gully rightward from the left side of the rocky corner until the gully headed at short cliffs. A steep 55-degree snow chute got us up over a minor spur to the next gully over. We took this adjacent gully up a tad then left up a straight “Triple Couloirs-esque” gully to very nearly its col looking over the East Face. The cornice at the col notch was too much to approach comfortably, so Stefan exited right to continue up through short trees and minor rocks. Looking down the straight gully from the notch: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi22_final_gully_near_top_sm.JPG[/img] He got up to a rocky knoll a hundred or so yards from the summit and waited for me to catch up. He thought that belaying the final corniced ridge was the wise thing to do and I concurred. The climbing wouldn’t be technical but no one likes to do cornice tobogganing. The rocks abutting the cornice were wet and sloped and not conducive to walking over. Stefan took the lead up and I followed, dragging Martin and Fay’s second rope. [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi21_final_ridge_IV_sm.JPG[/img] I made it up and immediately planked the summit (there was photographic evidence but Stefan erroneously deleted it because of its poor quality—the photograph, not the plank move). Stefan struggling to belay the token white chick. She’s sooo heavy! [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi15_Stefan_at_top_III_sm.JPG[/img] Fay at the summit (in nice weather White Chuck Mountain would have been looming behind the white chick in this photo): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi16_Fay_at_top_sm.JPG[/img] Martin: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/599x401xWChi17_Martin_at_top_sm.JPG.pagespeed.ic.1rbJxq2NUE.jpg[/img] I placed a Fay Pullen Special at the summit and built a cairn. This cairn kept falling over. I must suck at building cairns. Paul (no we weren’t all sharing the same jacket): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/600x450xWChi18_Paul_at_top_sm.JPG.pagespeed.ic.NJFZ1gBfzX.jpg[/img] It had taken 5.5 hours to get up. Approximately 4.5 miles and 4000 ft of gain. We had taken not a single break and I only took my pack off once to put a jacket on. That’s not bad. Maybe I’m not as out-of-shape-and-fat-and-older as I thought. The token white chick in her element (w/o skis on!): [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi23_Fay_at_4200_ft_sm.JPG[/img] We returned the way we came, glissading the big gully (that went quick!). The road walk back seemed longer on the way out (but isn’t that always how it seems?). 9.5 hours round trip. Our route: [img:center] http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi01_fr_river_bridge_I_anno.JPG[/img] [img:center] http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/WChi02_fr_river_bridge_II_anno.JPG[/img] Our GPS Track courtesy of Fay: [img:center] http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/504/medium/White_Chick_Route_Fay_Pullen.JPG[/img] A comment on the weather, though it wasn’t bad (we were only blemished by light rain), remember that we had superb weather only the day before. And so it goes in Washington. Due to the weather, the conditions were cloudy and a white out most of the day. White Chuck Mountain made a brief appearance from the belay knoll and I took too long to photograph it. Drat! It would have shown the mountain from a previously unseen angle…if this truly was a first ascent. We think it was. Prove it if it wasn't. Epilogue So we’re at the car and Stefan breaks out a wrinkled dress shirt and suit and puts them on. Then he puts on a tie. Now, I’ve never seen him wear a tie before—and especially at a trailhead. This is most peculiar. He had said he had a memorial service to attend to in Ballard. Oooo-kay. Stefan in a “birthday” suit... In reality… He was just trying to throw me off (and he did). In reality there was a surprise 40th Birthday Party waiting for me back at the house. I opened the garage door with the opener as I’m backing my car in and the first things I see are a whole bunch of legs and then I realize for sure the thing I suspected might happen really is happening. I had a great time that night, so great in fact, that I did not go to bed until 4:00am—fully 24 hours after I got up. But I was only 39 years, 363 days old then. I’m 40 now and probably couldn’t handle that now. I am older, stupider, out-of-shaper, and weaker now. Gear Notes: Ice axe, safety rope for cornice adventures, suit and tie. Approach Notes: I don't know that this climb would be easier without snow. Steep duffy ground in the trees and then perhaps mossy rocks or steep heather higher up.

Trip: New routes in Leavenworth - Colchuck NE Face, Snow Creek, Tumwater Canyon Date: 3/31/2011 Trip Report: It’s hard to beat winter in Leavenworth. We were climbing ice the day before thanksgiving, climbed roadside ice and skied deep powder through December, and had three weeks of good alpine climbing conditions in January and February before the arrival of a long pow storm cycle. Sometimes the possibilities seem endless. In late January Jens Holsten and I headed up to Colchuck Lake with heavy packs and a couple of days to kill. Our main objective was the NEB of Colchuck. This outing was similar to the other times that we have headed up to check it out in that we didn’t climb the route. At least this time we got to climb a couple of (hard) mixed pitches before we were stopped by unconsolidated snow and iced cracks. On the way down we stopped to scope out a flow of ice running down the NE face to the right of the NE couloir. The next morning a well timed start had us as the base of this flow by sunrise. Two pitches of perfect AI3 ice had us at a snowfield. From here one could go up and right on easy snow and maybe wrap around and connect with the NBC, but we simul climbed up and left for a few pitches. The path of least resistance took us over a pitch and a half of mixed climbing and snow covered rock before a snow bowl. The snow on these pitches was very unconsolidated and we pretty much had to keep digging down to rock for pro and ground solid enough to support our weight. In better conditions you would be able to cruise over these pitches, but in worse conditions they could shut you down. Above the snow bowl I set up the belay below a nice looking ice filled dihedral, but it turned out the white stuff wouldn’t support any weight. This would be a fun and more direct option if it forms up. Jens traversed about 20 feet to the next weakness, a steep chimney that we climbed in two pitches. Overhanging and technical, but with enough moss and pro to make it work, this was the crux of the climb. Jens gets ready. The route from the base. Dragontail lookin good. More steep snow and mixed climbing took us to a low point in the north ridge. Pulling onto the ridge was one of my more wild moments in recent memory. All that was left of the sun was a pink glow on the horizon, and a stout wind tried to push us off our perch. After dark I am able to climb and stay relaxed knowing that at least it won’t get any darker, but there is something unsettling about dusk when you are on a route without bivy gear. The summit felt a long ways off and a 15 foot tall 4-5 inch wide crack stood in our way. No big deal if we were down in the icicle, but here, now, with crampons on our feet and no number 4 cam it was a disheartening sight. Jens made due with a couple of pins (one is now fixed) and after a short fall and some tense moments he ran the rope out along the ridge. A traverse brought us to the NW couloir which took us to the rime covered summit and the easy descent. After some of the best ramen I have ever eaten and a quick nap we packed up our camp and walked back to the road on shaky legs. By the time I got home it was time to go back to the mountains to go to work. That night I stood in the driving rain next to my chairlift at Stevens Pass and tried not to smile as my co workers groused about the bad skiing conditions on our weekend. We are calling the route the Holsten-Hilden 1,600’ WI3 M6, steep snow. One thing that most people don’t know about Jens is that he is an extreme snowshoe enthusiast. It doesn’t matter what weather or conditions are like, he just goes out and walks hundreds of miles in those things every winter. Sometimes on his walks he sees lines on crags and mountains, and stores these memories away for later use. Promises of white granite, blue ice, and unclimbed mixed lines led me to strap on the snowshoes to head up the Snow Creek Valley a couple of times this winter. At the end of February’s high pressure we headed up to try a route on Temple Ridge, and while we did climb some nice ice in the sun, the switch in my head was flipped from up to down when the sun caused an apparently windloaded bowl above us to slide on our route, a bit too close for comfort. A couple of weeks later the death of an acquaintance in an avalanche on Mount Cashmere shook the community and my confidence. He was doing what he loved in an area that he knew better than almost anyone, a short snowmobile ride from his home. It was a beautiful day and he was with good friends, skiing steep, deep powder. The kind of day that we live for. A day that people around the world dream of, full of the moments which make magazines and ski movies, but for him it was just another day in the life of a guy who chose to live his dream. Today would be Danny Z's 29th birthday. When someone dies climbing or skiing it’s hard to avoid dwelling on the risks I’ve taken and will take, sometimes knowingly, sometimes unexpected and unaccounted for. Without risk however, climbing wouldn’t mean much. Summits and nice views are great, but deep down I climb to learn about myself and see where my limits are. This mindset is inherently dangerous, and sometimes it all seems pretty pointless. I want to be an old man someday, but at the same time I want to be able to inspire my kids and grand kids to live their dreams. In the words of Henry David Thoreau “I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately, to front only the essential facts of life, and see if I could not learn what it had to teach, and not, when I came to die, discover that I had not lived.” Last week Jens and I headed up to another potentially new line in the Snow Creek Valley and with the first swings of my tools all of the doubt and fear of the last few weeks was gone. The question of why does not exist in the mountains. Our route followed an ice runnel and a snow ramp to an obvious 200 foot ice filled corner, and up steep snow and rock bands to the summit of a small middle of nowhere tower. To get there start heading uphill just before the millennium wall, aiming for the tower with the obvious dihedral. The route is directly across from the Snow Creek Wall, and is about the same height. Jens is calling the tower Millennium Tower, and at the time he suggested calling the route 1,000 Swings to Nowhere, which I think is pretty fitting. M5, steep snow. The route goes up the slanted corner splitting the face left of photo center. Earlier in the winter Kurt Hicks, Aaron Scott, and myself also climbed an undocumented ice line in the Tumwater. Mr. Gecko has a picture of it from the road in this thread (to the right of Comic Book Hero): http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/997719/5 Walk across the red bridge, head west on a hopefully packed down old road grade for 20 minutes to where a rock slide blocks the path, and start climbing. Two pitches of WI2, and at the top we climbed an amazing pitch of WI 4 in a chimney. One of the cooler ice routes that I have done in L-town for sure. No one told me it was a FA until we were down, which was neat. An alternative to the last pitch that we climbed is to climb the obvious, less steep flow left of the chimney. I returned the next night to climb that after dark (because snow and rain was about to ruin everything), but downclimbed about halfway up because it seemed a bit wet and insecure. We never really talked about a name. Aaron liked Milf School 6, after a DVD he found on the highway that morning. I kind of like the name Another Roadside Distraction because I looked at the thing so many times driving up to the pass before we climbed it, but it doesn’t even exist anymore anyway, so maybe it doesn’t matter. Kurt has better pictures of this one here. A very PNW topout. Gear Notes: Colchuck NE Face: Double set of cams to 2" singles of 3 and 4. Nuts, pins, and 4 or 5 screws. Millennium Tower: Cams (singles), nuts, screws. Tumwater route: Screws (Stubbies too!) and you might be able to place a small cam or two in the chimney. Approach Notes: Walk like you mean it.

Trip: Patagonia - FA. The Washington Route - Fitzroy Date: 2/8/2011 Trip Report: This last season down in Patagonia was my 5th season of toiling and suffering down there. Finally after all of those years I feel like I've actually gotten to climb some stuff. But it wasn't until the last week of my trip this year that I made it up the Fitz. Its was a long time coming.... During the first week of February the weather forecast started to show a possible 4 day weather window. The only problem for us was we were suppose to catch a plane back the states right in the middle of the goods. As the predicted weather approach it became apparent that we’d have to change our tickets for an attempt at the Fitz. A few frustrating hours on the phone and 1k and spent we were good to go. I kept telling myself it better be worth it…. I've been burnt before changing tickets down there. On Monday the 7th we packed our bags and made our way through Piedre Fraile and onto the bivi at Piedra Negra. As luck would have it, the weather Monday night wasn’t so great. Just past midnight it started to sprinkle. To save weight on the approach we opted for no tent, so we sat there in a light rain deciding what to do. After much contemplation we decided we should just get up and start. It was 12:45am. To our dismay the glacier hadn’t yet frozen as we made our way from Paso Guillaumet to the base of La Brecha. We had figured the it would only take us 3 hours from camp to the base but it ended up taking nearly 5. Which wasn’t that much of a problem but it meant we would then be climbing the Brecha in the full effect of the sun. Not fun nor that safe. Onwards and upward we went climbing right threw the waterfall that was starting run down the Brecha. Due to the running water we were forced to stop on top of the Brecha in the sun for a couple hours to dry our clothes. At this point we were starting to run way behind. Little did we know were about to fall way behind schedule as we traversed to base of the south face. A few years ago we had covered this same terrain and has cruised right across it. This time we found boiler plate hard blue ice. Our old worn out aluminum crampons were drastically inadequate as well as our single light weight ice tool. Late in the evening it became glaringly apparent that we were going to need to bivi before we even got on the “route.” We were both a little frustrated and morale was going down. With out any obvious bivi sites available we had to keep traversing farther to the base of the California route, even though this was taking us out of the way. Thankfully we reached the base of a large ice slope where we could excavate a decent platform for the two of us. We had a great view of our proposed new route up the south face which did give us hope as it didn’t look to intimidating. On Wednesday the 9th we started up the real business of the route, which first involved making a short traversing pitch across the ice slope and then a 60m rappel down to the base of the system (a place where we had nearly been before but had to continue past to find the bivi.) I had lead a good majority of the climbing the day before as it was more of the alpine variety which I’m slightly more efficient at then Kate, so now it was Kate’s turn to take the lead and get the rope up. The first couple pitches were on good rock but unfortunately they were choked full of ice. She slowly chopped the ice out of the cracks resorting to a mix of aid and free. The rope moved up at a steady pace though. It wasn’t until a couple pitches up that the ice had disappeared allowing Kate to move and an even more rapid pace. I followed behind doing whatever it took to get up the pitch, this often involved “poor man’s jumaring,” which is just yarding up the rope in between pieces and then Kate would take the rope as tight as she could. ( I can’t even remember how many times in my guiding days did I tell clients to never do that….) Kate lead on through a variety of cracks but most were in the hands to fist to off-width size. After getting set slowed down by poor conditions yesterday it felt nice to be moving efficiently on good rock in good conditions. Pitch after pitch fell below as we continued up sustained cracks. After 12 pitches or so we veered right at our first opportunity, hoping for easier terrain. Kate turned over the lead to me at the first ledge we came to as she had been leading for over 8 hours and was properly cooked. The steepness eased up and after a few more pitches we reached a point where we started simul-climbing up the 4th class terrain that lead to the final snow slope. Both of us had really hoped to top out in the light but that just wasn’t in the cards for us. We stumbled up the last easy 100m and reached the summit just before 11pm to tired and hungry to be that excited. A short discussion ensued about rappelling through the night but we choose the much more conservative and colder option of spending the night on the summit. For some unknown reason Kate and I had opted to NOT bring a sleeping bag up Fitz. This was undeniably a very very poor choice. Our teeth literally chattered all night long. No amount of spooning was going to keep us warm. We put chemical warmers into our boots and hot water bottles in our jackets, this barely helped. But each and every chatter of the teeth were quickly forgotten as the sun rose and illuminated our location on top of Fitzroy. The excitement finally hit. Somehow we had managed to climb a new route on Fitz. This one won’t soon be forgotten.

Trip: Leavenworth Midnight Rock - Running Start (New Route) Date: 8/25/2010 Trip Report: Melanie Estrella wanted to go to Midnight Rock in Tumwater Canyon for a loooong time and I too was taken with the idea. It perches another steep 30-minute hike above Castle Rock. Following the approach, we wander around Midnight Rock for a good half hour looking for the start of the famous ROTC. We didn't know about or find the ledge at Midnight Rock's mid-height that wraps around from the climber's left to almost the base of ROTC. So we decided to climb from the base of the crag 200 feet to ROTC. HOW HARD CAN IT BE? Note the forshortening in the pic. We aimed for the left of the side-by-side roofs. They look like the closed eyes of a giant wearing heavy mascara. [img:center]http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs661.snc4/60144_1499923013859_1107670161_31397475_2474442_n.jpg[/img] Mel gets the party started and takes a cool line up a diagonal crack system working up along a short fist to offwidth crack, onto an incredible layback flake, to another crack system to some face climbing and finally to a final layback flake to a small grassy alcove below 2 large roofs. Prolly goes at mid-5.10 with pretty good gear from micro to 4 inches. Here she is at the alcove about to balay me to God knows where. Beautiful smile. [img:center]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs658.snc4/61816_1499921293816_1107670161_31397465_1922473_n.jpg[/img] Above the alcove, seems an impasse. The wall is blank on all sides except under the roof up and right. There is a 25-foot no-feet fingertip traverse on small gear rightward, under this roof (crux). Near the end, find a no-hands rest on a vicious knee lock and shake out. With a toe hook one is then able to flip up and over the roof's right side, to reach across a blank wall to a sweeeeeet hand crack (5.9 ish) with good gear to a much easier second roof and onto a spacious ledge above. *whew!* Here Melanie tops out modeling a sexy hula skirt of bling. [img:center]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs718.snc4/63822_1499921973833_1107670161_31397467_7880547_n.jpg[/img] [img:center]http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs718.snc4/63822_1499922013834_1107670161_31397468_6514975_n.jpg[/img] Here, my appreciative 6th chakra is leaving my body, whatever a chakra is. Sorry, no other pics of the route. Having too much fun. Overall, first pitch 120 ft, mid 5.10 second pitch 80 ft, mid 5.11. Descent: Walk off the ledge system at top of pitch 2. Enjoy! Gear Notes: Pretty good gear. Doubles cams from micro to 3 inches. One #4 or #5 friend helpful for start. One set of stoppers. Approach Notes: Go to Castle Rock, cross Loggers Ledge and continue on a rising rightward faint trail to the base of Midnight Rock.

Trip: Strobach - FA: The Responsible Ladies Man WI5 Date: 12/5/2010 Trip Report: Left PDX at 9pm and headed to strobach friday night with skander, found FS rd 1202 beat down by plenty of hunters and other wander's, so I risked it and drove the jetta wagon up the road. Parked at the 2nd meadow and slept for a couple hours. used slow shoes to approach, but didnt sink too much, only about 14in's of snow. came to the motherlode to find things thin but still forming. dropline through tower of power the routes lookers left of dropline until separation gully were in but thin...so I guess in is subjective to some. I had never been over to primus suckus so I walked that way. first on the left looked the most in of any of the routes. unholy baptism's first pitch was a cool looking thin sheet of ice. we climbed this: which is am pretty sure is a FA. now maybe known as "the responsible ladies man" P1: Ascend body length pillar starting in lower left corner of picture to smear in corner to the ledge WI3+ M4 30M, stubbies, BD #3 pecker, #3 & #.75 BD camalot for pro. could place more in crack left of smear. Walk on ledge sixty feet to second pitch. Good yellow alien and #1 pecker for anchor just right of 2nd pitch ice. Pitch 2: 46M WI5 I recommend not toping out. Having Fun:) back in portland by 10pm for a date Gear Notes: slow shoes, compass, whiskey, herb like fruit, next time bring more than nine screws. Approach Notes: Look in the guide

Trip: Washington Pass - New Route - Wright/Pond (5.11, 4 pitches) Date: 10/4/2010 Trip Report: I'm not sure how much climbing weather we'll have left this year, but we did a new route up on a feature near the pass and if anyone wants to go climb it and let us know what you think, we'd be stoked. It's all set up with bolted belays and a handful of lead bolts, and the route is pretty clean and super fun! It takes about an hour to get to, each of the first three pitches are rope-stretchers and are awesome and I'd say it was worth a day if you're looking for something new. Now!Climbing There's a complete write-up and more photos here if anyone's interested. P1 5.11a/b, 55m – Begin by climbing the obvious left-facing arch depicted in the photo below. At its terminus, head directly up gaining a shallow, right-facing corner. Climb this past one bolt to a strenuous pinch at an overlap. Gain the pinch and move left to a stance (crux) below a handsome, right-facing corner to the right of a large roof. Climb left around a flake to gain the corner and climb the corner crack to a bolted belay at a ledge with a small tree. A bold lead. P2 5.10c/d, 50m – Leave the belay to the left and head up a large flake towards a bolt on a small overlap. Clip the bolt and step right into a clean open book. Stemming and thin fingers lead through the open book and past another bolt to gain a stance. Step right and follow the line of six bolts up the face (crux) on small edges and pockets. Step left past the last bolt to a clean, shallow, right-facing corner. Follow the corner to another bolted belay. P3 5.10a, 50m – Head up the obvious right-facing corner (mostly fingers) until it closes out. Work the corner and face past one bolt until a small roof. Pull left past the roof into left-facing corner crack. Climb the crack up and left before another crack trends slightly rightward. Jam fingers and hands to its finish and climb a short, easy slab up and right to a treed ledge and another bolted belay at the base of a left facing corner/chimney. P4 5.8, 45m – Climb the blocky corner/chimney up past a tree until you gain a low-angled slab. Head left across the slab to a wide hand and fist crack hidden in a left-facing corner. Exit the corner up and right on blocky but easy ground to low-angled ledges. A tree with rappel slings is on the left. Descent: Rap the route in four double-rope rappels. Gear Notes: Double rack to #3;, emphasis on smaller cams and wires. RPs useful. Approach Notes: Turn off Hwy 20 app. 4.5 miles east of Washington Pass following signs for the Cutthroat Creek Trail. Drive about a mile down the road to a trailhead parking with a bathroom on the left side of the road. Walk up through the woods (no trail) towards the wall, gaining elevation quickly before traversing leftwards in open forest and on slabby benches. You should reach a shoulder near the base of the wall’s right-hand side within an hour to an hour and a half.

Trip: Colchuck Balanced Crag - Milk n' Honey 5.11 Date: 8/24/2010 Trip Report: Over the last three months Craig Rankin, Abe Traven and myself made three quick trips to CBR to explore the rock on the right side of the West Face. During the first trip back in June, after warming up on the Scoop(awsome!) we esablished Leche la Vaca on the far right side of the massif. Leche was climbed ground up with minimal cleaning and required and no fixed gear. All the belays were from comfortable ledges with excellent protection. The climbing was amazingly fun, and varied from perfect cracks to knobby corners, huge solid flakes and a tricky little roof at the top. With four pitches ranging from 5.8-5.10 it seemed the perfect compliment to the more difficult free routes already established on CBR at that point. We were stoked and immediately began planning another trip to go back for more! The next two trips yielded two more full length routes up the steep West Face(Rikki Tikki Tavi .11 and Milk'n Honey .11) and a growing handful of variations and stand alone pitches scattered along the way. Everything was climbed free, ground up without the need of pre-cleaning. The few loose blocks that we encountered were able to be tossed off safely by the second. Since June we have free climbed at least 18 new pitches on the face. At this point there are seven full length free routes and over 30 pitches of outstanding trad climbing. Including the Tempest and the Scoop from last summer, and the recent addition of Scarface up the far left side of the wall, CBR is without a doubt the premier alpine crag of Washington. The climbing is on near perfect Index quality granite but much more sustained and Yosemite like in character. There are number of long splitter cracks that rival the enduro classics of the valley. Perhaps the most interesting development does not so much involve the climbing as it does the new approach. Paranoid Edit By literally burrowing through the mountainside via a hidden, long forgotten fissure we were able to reach the col in a causal sub three hour hike from the parking lot. This new approach has already drawn more climbers to the area. Please be respectful and conscientious. [soapbox Alert] Pack it out! Camp on the rocks out of the meadow. Don't shit near the water. DON'T burry your shit. Use the desert method. Shit on a flat sunny rock and spread it out with a stick. Pack out your papers. The sun and air will take care of the rest. Don't believe me? Look it up. http://humanurehandbook.com/ Gear Notes: double rack'o widgets Approach Notes: Milk N' Honey .11 It starts to the right of the start of The Scoop and left of Rikki Tikki Tavi. Climbs an easy corner up to blocky roofs then pulls through a strenuous flare(.10 akward) belays above in a good corner. P2 5.9- fingers layback then easy up to bushy ledge right of Scoop pitch. P3 climb large L facing corner up to cracks in slab. P4 is the real money. Climb up slabs from belay into corner with two cracks. Climb up cracks arching left until a thin crack that cuts out right through an overlap(.11). Pull through that onto face above and more easy climbing to ledge just left of the cobra head. Awsome.

Trip: Index, Upper Town Wall - Rise and Fall, 5.12a Date: 8/23/2010 Trip Report: The Upper Wall "sport" routes have intrigued me since my first foray up to Sisu over 13 years ago. I had walked away from Sisu with my tail between my legs wondering how people even manage to climb 5.11 up there, let alone 5.12. As time went by and I gained more experience and knowledge of the area the Upper routes became even more elusive. In the last 10 years the only full length old school "sport" route that I know has been repeated is Swim which was this year (or maybe last). I've heard rumors of ascents but never full redpoints. WHY? What is wrong with these routes? While doing Green Drag-on and Town Crier earlier this summer I often found myself staring at Rise and Fall which is in spitting distance of GD. It looked amazing! I knew if I had time this summer I'd have to try it. Kate following the 5.10 third pitch My first attempt was at the end of July with Colin Haley. We were both feeling ansi and started up the first pitch in the sun, though it wasn't to hot, climbing in the sun made the 5.12a pitch feel real hard. I battled my way up it. Standing in slings, grabbing bolt hangers in desperation, and doing whatever it took to get the rope up. My fist inclination told me this pitch was impossible! Surely the fist ascent had used smoke and mirrors to send it…. I continued upwards demoralized but still motivated to see what laid ahead. It must get easier? Thankfully I was able to onsight the 5.10 third pitch, though I can't say I made it look easy. And then their is the 5.11+ 4th pitch. Really how hard can 5.11 be? Well at Index it can be just as hard as 5.13 in some other areas. This pitch was another quintessential Index sandbag. After much cursing, floundering and flailing, I A0'd my way to the anchors, completely mystified. Another pitch that might as well be rated 5.IMPOSSIBLE I lowered back down and looked at every possible hand and foot hold. Real slowly the sequences started to appear. High step mantle, to high step mantle lead to a final hold-less deadpoint that would without a doubt be the MOVE while redpointing. I managed to link very little of this pitch on toprope. One more 11b pitch followed. The theme of the day continued with me grabbing draws and getting totally shut down on the crux, but luckily after a bunch of brushing and chalking of holds it came together. 3 star pitch! By the end of the pitch I had the rock climbing version of the screaming barffies in my toes and was having a hard time touching my tips to anything. We were both royally annihilated! Time to go down. Kate in desperation on the 5.12 second pitch Good weather and alpine climbing plans took me away to Alaska for a quick trip but all I could think of was getting back to Index in time to give Rise and Fall another go. This time I enrolled my girlfriend Kate to go up their with me, which usually makes me climb better. I also had another trick up my sleeve this time, Alpine Anorexia. I had lost 6 lbs of the 125 I usually carry around in just three days while up in AK. I was feeling light! I almost sent the 12a pitch first go but lacked any cohesive beta to make it happen. I knew it would go down next try though. We cruised up to the 5.11+ only to get completely shut down again. I threw a great wabler up there and almost went down. I was letting falling on 5.11 get to my ego. NOT GOOD! I man'nd up, swallowed my pride and aided to the top to setup the toprope. After more inspection it came together and I was able to link the whole pitch on TR. I also knew it would go down next go. Me on the start of the 5.11+ roof to slab pitch (Town Crier's triple roofs in the background) Yesterday, along with Kevin Newell, I used my own smoke and mirrors on Rise and Fall. I eked out a redpoint of the 12a pitch first go which was going to be the mental crux for me. As always I'd hope to make a no falls redpoint but to my dismay one momentary lapse of friction spit me off the final move on the 11+ pitch. Next go found me much more relaxed and holds feeling that much bigger. I haven't been so thrilled to send 5.11 in a very long time! Now the self imposed pressure became thick as all I had left was the 5.11b pitch. Thankfully chalked edges and pockets appeared whenever they were critical and I found myself at the anchors in fading dusk light. Kevin raced up the pitch and made quick work of the final 50ft to the top of the wall. Just like the rest of my climbs on the Upper Wall this summer, I followed in near darkness by brail. My grin couldn't get much bigger once I hit the top!!!!! Leading up to the roof on the 5.11+ pitch This route is a testament to the skill and ability of Greg Child and Andy DeKlerk as well as the unbelievable sandbagging that was going on when those guys were putting up routes. For me this was nearly as difficult to redpoint as Green Drag-on and Town Crier, which are rated one full number grade harder or so. If you are looking for a route to fluff your 8a.nu card this may not be the one. STOKER!!!

Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - Scarface (III, 5.10+) Date: 8/15/2010 Trip Report: On Sunday, Nate F. and I climbed up the highly visible rock scar on CBR. We believe that we climbed a new route several hundred feet to the right of the old NW Buttress line. However, we might have connected with that terrain higher up for the last couple moderate pitches. If the NW Buttress did indeed go straight through the rock scar , we probably still climbed new terrain as what rock was there is now hanging out in the meadow 1000 ft below. The 2nd pitch was the highlight of the route for me with a sustained steep handcrack and awesome exposure. The rock scar was mostly clean with some loose blocks on the ledges still from the rock fall. Nate on the 3rd pitch. Slab on the 4th pitch. Topo of the route. Stewart's Photo with the route added. Gear Notes: RPs, 2x #2 TCU - #3 BD, 1x #00 TCU & #4 BD Approach Notes: 'schwhack.

Trip: Colchuck Balanced Rock - The Tempest Wall (III 5.12d): team free ascent Date: 8/15/2010 Trip Report: Ben Gilkison and I made a team free ascent of this route this past Sunday. Rock/Paper/Scissors determined who got the roof pitch and it was Ben! We swapped leads the whole way and neither of us fell all day. My full report w/pictures can be found here at my blog. Unfortunately, my carefully crafted post failed the .html error check so it's a bit wonky looking (thanks Blogspot and my lack of .html coding knowledge!), but it's still readable and I hope it's enjoyable nonetheless. I should add that the YDS grade is an estimate based on my somewhat limited 20-foot-roof-crack-free-climbing experience (including Separate Reality in Yosemite and More Monkey Than Funky in Joshua Tree, which are both shorter and much easier than this one), so take it with a grain of salt if you're a seasoned veteran of this style of climbing. Gear Notes: We found the following rack to be adequate: -Single set of nuts to #9 Black Diamond -Cams with double .3, .4, and .5 BD equivalent, single .75 C4, double #1, triple #2 and a single #3 C4. -12 quickdraws, with at least 4 slings (ideally 6, including a couple 1.5 or double length). One could perhaps double up in a few of the medium stopper sizes and/or the green camalot range, and possible bring triples in the finger sizes for the long 5.11 pitch, but many gear options exist. You could leave behind the third #2 C4 but I think it's handy for the roof pitch. Approach Notes: Approach as for Colchuck Lake, then around the north side of the lake to Aasgard pass. Hopefully find a decent path through the slide alder to a gully. There seem to be a couple of good options for this, both of which exit the Aasgard trail somewhat early on and have cairns. Climb the gully through steep scree and some talus. The best way seems to be to move right before a section of bushes, hugging a cliff until a path can be found left across a creek, coming out above the bushes. Several short, exposed third class scrambles are present higher up. The final approach to the climb is through talus. It begins below the obvious roof on the second pitch with somewhat circuitous climbing on the first. Someone else might have better beta for the gully, so chime on in.

Trip: Silver Horn - F.A. - Spice of Life - III 5.10 C1 Date: 8/12/2010 Trip Report: First off: Im impatient and kind of an internet numbskull so I've posted photos on picasa Spice of Life Photos If someone could send me a PM with some simple instructions to insert directly I would appreciate it. Anywho... So awhile back I was visiting our friend Blake Herrington and talking about climbing. Go figure. He was showing me some photos of his trip to Silver Horn in '08, remarking about the rock quality and pointing out the two lines that now existed from the previous ascents. To my peaked interest (pun intended) there was a large corner system on the upper half of the formation that still lay untouched. Fast forward a few months and my good friend Mike Pond and I are getting psyched to go fire this thing. We roll into Mazama with perfect July weather but get sandbagged by athletic tape. Turns out Mike is horribly allergic to the adhesive substance on the tape and after taping his ankle for a long day in the mountains it swelled up and blistered for a week. Ugh. Fast forward again, roughly one year. Im coming off an injury, Mike has not climbed any serious rock for a few months and needs a good send off before he goes to Ohio for grad school. Seems like a perfect time to test this idea of ours deep in the mountains so we start hiking up the Cedar Cr. Trail outside of Mazama. This trail is super mellow for circa 7 miles. We hit the first major drainage and started the uphill schwack that would lead us into the proper cirque. (It turns out that a pretty decent, albeit discontinuous trail can be found that runs about 50 yards climbers right of the drainage creek.) From the cirque it is obvious where to go and we settled in for an open air bivy in the gorgeous meadow below Silver Star, Silver Horn, and the surrounding peaks. We woke at dawn and began the approach up through the slabby gully just east of Silver Horn to the base of its apron wall. Blake's line, Playin' not Sprayin', is an obvious corner system that looks fantastic. Although tempted by what is sure to be great climbing for the apron pitches, for the sake of doing something new we opted for a corner/crack system that runs between sprayin' and The Chalice. We swapped leads as we climbed and after reaching the bench and looking up the massive corner system that lured us up there I almost creamed my pants. The climbing through here is fantastic and the position is awesome. Topping this out we were met with a surprise. Thinking that it would top out, instead this put us about 15m below to summit. The rock for this short pitch left something to be desired and we probably would have opted to finish on the last chimney pitch of sprayin' as it was just out of reach via a sketch down climb. I attempted to tackle what seemed the "best" section of rock via an offwidth through a roof. My OW skills also leave something to be desired and after fussing with the crux for a bit and not totally trusting the rock/gear I frenchied the move and finished what was still some hard 5.10 climbing to the top. Mike tied in short so he could haul the pack up this last pitch and was able to pull through with a well placed fist jam. A quick mantle on the summit block and some belly timber for the soul left us ready to descend. To descend we rapped off the W/NW side into the gully (1 rappel) that heads south to into the cirque. Eventually cliffing out we resorted to rapping from tree to tree. Wondering if we took the shitty way down as we approached the final rappels down some slabs Mike made a mild suggestion to rappel of a questionable bush. As he said this I looked at my feet and there lay some sunbleached tat around a horn. I chuckled at the circumstance and remarked that we either had indeed taken the right way down or someone else had made the same mistakes. Assuming there was not a skeleton below we replaced the worn cord and reached terra firma 2 raps later. After all the terrain covered with the moments of tension and joy, at the end of the day, adventures like these boil down to one thing. Climbing is what we love to do. It is the spice of life. Pitch Breakdown: P1: Start 60 or so ft' right of Playin' not Sprayin' in a giant left facing corner. This widens drastically and move left into another left facing corner. Follow nice fingers to hands past a hollow flake until it pinches down to a seam. Pull right over an arete and back into the original corner for 20' to a small ledge with a tree. Move left along wicked finger rail traverse back into the other corner system (5.10), past some hanging flakes to a tree belay. 40m P2: Head straight up into a left facing flake/corner. Move past some slabby tree-grovel moves up and left of a small roof (past some more trees) and up about 15' right of a wide crack. Pull a bulge into a finger crack (5.10) that arcs from hands to wide and onto the belay. Sick! 60m P3: Follow grooves and a small flake up to the bench mid point. (5.7) 10m From the bench, move the belay left until you are below the awesome left facing corner. The next two pitches are brilliant. P4: Follow beautiful, mostly clean cracks on great rock. Stem your way up and pull a wild exposed mantle out right to the base of a prominent hand crack. (5.10-) 1" - 2" gear for belay. 50m P5: Climb the splitter until forced into chimney moves. Grovel/climb/work your way up until forced out left into a corner. Follow up into crazy orange rock and chimney up through the horn feature. (5.10) 60m P6: Climb exfoliating, suspect rock through an offwidth roof (effin hard!) and continue with mostly wide crack to the top. (5.10+ ish) 15m Mantle the summit block and be psyched. Gear Notes: Doubles in fingers through hand sizes. Single #3 and #4 (crucial). 60M rope. Good approach shoes. Approach Notes: Head up Cedar Cr. Trail for circa 7 miles then start bearing west up into the alpine cirque. From there it is obvious to the base of the apron.

Trip: Index - The Waterway F.F.A. 5.11D Date: 8/5/2010 Trip Report: Earlier this week I hiked up to the Upper wall to go check out Good Girls Like Bad Boys but upon reaching the base with my friend Sean we got distracted by the possibility of freeing The Waterway. We weren't prepared to go ground up so we hiked back the the car grabbed some static ropes and then hiked back to the top of the Upper wall and rapped it. We fixed 3 60m ropes to the ground and then top roped our way back to the top. The climbing was cleaner, better and easier than expected. The only pitch we had problems on was the first but we figured it would go fairly easily. After borrowing some cleaning supplies we headed up the next day to give the thing a scrub and prep it for the lead. Unfortunately thunderstorms and rain chased us off without being able to clean that much of it. We figured it was clean enough though and we decided to head on up there for the redpoint yesterday. Sean started up the first pitch around 6pm but got shut down on his first try due to some dirty footholds and hard to place pro. He scrubbed it a little and figured out the key piece of protection and then fired it next try. I followed in a less than secure manner, barely sticking the crux move. We figure around 5.11D. Feeling pumped and dazed from the lower pitch I let Sean lead the next pitch as well. The second pitch starts off face climbing on good holds and then clips a bolt and moves down and left to good holds and a 5.10 mantle. This is followed by easy liebacking to a small roof that its passed on it left side via good side pulls. Kinda pumpy here. Opposing sidepulls and small feet make up the crux sequence which then leads to easier secure climbing and a nice belay spot. Sean dispatched of this pitch no problem. Great pitch. I finally felt recovered and took the 3rd pitch which follows an easy hollow flake to small fingers/stemming/liebacking in a corner. Double of small cams (purple tcu) is nice here. It takes good pro but it felt hard to place. Underneath some thin hanging flakes I stepped left using a cool undercling pocket to another undercling flake. I found the move left to be reachy. 50ft of easy (5.8) climbing up amazing rock leads to a couple moderate 5.10 lieback moves. I had already used the crucial stopper that protects the last 5.10 which forced a 10ft run-out or so. I think you need a #5 or #6 BD stopper for the last move. The belay is on a sloping ramp. Sean took over here and lead off to the right traversing on easy terrain (5.8) with poor gear. He moved quickly up the chimney choosing to run it out for close to 80ft. I think there was available pro but it was almost dark and I wasn't looking for it. After the chimney Sean moved left to a bolted arete to avoid the mungy 4th class gully. Currently the bolted arete is part of a route in progress, it felt around 5.10+ or so. It was to dark to see my feet so maybe it is easier. We left our fixed lines in place so we/I could put another day of scrubbing in to clean it up for future ascents. Overall we found the climbing to be quite amazing. The route follows natural features and perfect rock. We thought it was classic and hopefully will see some traffic in the future. Not sure if it can be rapped with one rope but it would be easy to walk to the top and rap Town Crier or Green Drag-on with a single 60m. Sean following pitch 3 Link to full size topo Gear Notes: single grey TCU Doubles of Purple TCU to #1 camalot single #2 camalot Nuts.

Trip: Darrington, Squire Creek Pass - Pass the Nut's (FA) Date: 7/25/2010 Trip Report: I finally got up to Squire Creek Pass with Karen and Carsten to climb the wall to the north of the pass. Of course I forgot the camera:-( I wanted to try to climb it ground up and clean. We took a line straight up the center of the wall, starting with an amazing steep knob field with a dirty crack in the middle of it (5.9). An easy ramp leads to a perfect 5.8 finger crack in a shallow corner and then a comfy belay ledge. The second pitch traverses right under some bushes and then up, with a slabby crux. The moves are probably 5.9 but with no pro at the crux I'd swear it was 10a :-) The third pitch goes left around a steep bulge on a really cool natural stair case and then up cracks and flakes to the top (5.7). Descent is a scramble down the back side. Although there was surprisingly fun climbing it's not the family friendly route I was hoping for. There are a lot of expanding and detached flakes and you have to be really careful where you go and where you put gear. Some of the route is pretty run out and a lot of the gear you do get is marginal. I don't have any plans to put in anchors or bolts. If someone wants to put bolts in have at it. I climbed it the way I wanted to. I'm calling it "Pass the Nuts" in reference to Squire Creek Pass and the fact that you have to be nuts to climb those flakes ;-) All in all I'm really glad I finally got up there and did it. It was an accomplishment for me and the view from the top just blew me away. Gear Notes: 00 tcu up to #4 C4. doubles on micro, fingers and single or doubles on hands depending on how much you want to carry up there. 60 meter half ropes. Approach Notes: South on Mt Loop Hwy from Darrington 2 miles, then right on the forest service road 6 miles to the Eight Mile Creek trailhead. Hike past Three O'clock rock to Squire Creek Pass (5 miles total). From the pass bush whack north and a little west to the boulder field at the base of the wall. Follow the base north several hundred yards to the knob field.

For your consideration... Gumbies! On! Crack! http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com/2010/07/la-gota-fria-18p-511b-a0-512d.html

Trip: Assassin Spire - NW Face - The Shooting Gallery (IV, WI4+) - FA Date: 3/7/2010 Trip Report: Assassin Spire - The Shooting Gallery (IV, WI4+) Photo courtesy of John Scurlock. Assassin Spire is a subsidiary summit of Lincoln Peak, one of the intimidating Black Buttes on Mt. Baker. Until this weekend it had never seen an ascent via any route. Daniel Jeffrey and I headed up to Marmot Ridge via Warm Creek off the Middle Fork of the Nooksack River on Thursday evening after work. We had planned to approach that evening, but it was raining when we arrived, so we decided to postpone the approach until the following morning. Friday morning we awoke at 3:30AM, and got ready to head up. We were crossing a very icy Warm Creek by 3:50 in complete darkness. We then headed up new-growth timber through a clearcut for 700' to gain Marmot Ridge. From here, it was a long, undulating journey to camp at ~6200' in the basin below Assassin Peak and Heliotrope Ridge. The next morning we awoke at 3:30 again to crystal clear, starry skies. We brewed some water and coffee, and proceeded to cross the basin to the base of the NW Face. We had spied a vertical line of ice (~3 pitches of WI6) below the hanging glacier, but it looked a bit intimidating for us, so we opted to try a less sporty line on climber's right. 2 25m pitches of WI4+ (90-100 degree ice - short stretches of overhanging on the first pitch) separated by a ledge led us up to a 55 degree buttress. The ice on the curtain was very brittle and it took multiple swings to get good placements. This was very tiring, and we pumped out fast. I led 25m on the first step before running out of screws. I then lowered off and belayed Daniel up to finish the last 5m (one more screw placement). From here, he belayed me up and I led the next 30m pitch. The ice was better here, but still brittle in spots. A swing of the tool would shatter the ice as it broke off huge chunks. From the top of the first curtain, we climbed 55 degree snow (firm and punchy here) to gain the hanging glacier. Above the hanging glacier lies an amazing amphitheater of ice and rock that rivals anything else I have seen in the entire N Cascade Range. How impressive!! Many lines are waiting to be climbed here consisting of very aesthetic, sustained, and solid ice. We traversed the hanging glacier to another gully (45 degrees), which we simul-soloed. This gully led into some 70 degree ice which we also soloed. We went right at John Wilkes' Tooth before arriving at the final ice curtain (20m WI4+). Daniel led this and we topped out in another steep snow/ice gully to 55 degrees. 3 more pitches led us to the summit. What a place! From the summit, Lincoln Peak looks impressive, as does Colfax and Baker. We spied about 15 snowmobiles parked under Sherman Peak, and saw 4 climbers at the col below the upper slopes of the Coleman Glacier. We were buzzed on the summit by an EA6B Prowler who did a double-take and circled us 2 or 3 times. The pilot tipped his wing. Very cool. This was a fantastic trip of epic proportions with a great partner in Daniel Jeffrey. Thanks to John Scurlock for flying over before the ascent to take recon photos, and thanks also for flying over on approach day thinking we were on route (we had told him we would be climbing Assassin on Friday). We saw him circle about 10 times looking for us. If only we had a flare gun... Scurlock's photo from March 5. THANKS John! Tracks in front of the Sister's Range on the approach. On the approach looking up at Heliotrope Ridge. View of Assassin Spire from the approach. Daniel at camp. Assassin Spire from camp. Fading light over the Sister's Range from camp. Alpenglow on Assassin Spire. Sunset. Me leading the upper portion of the first ice curtain on Assassin Spire. Looking down from the arete. Looking up from just above the first ice curtain. Daniel topping out on the first curtain. Daniel climbing up to the hanging glacier. The amphitheater. Views to the Sister's Range from mid-route. Looking down from high on the route. The Assassin Spire conglomerate. Tracks on route. Weeping curtains of ice from mid-route. Daniel climbing up to the belay below the third curtain. Daniel leading the third ice curtain. The steep gully above the last ice curtain. The upper slopes of Assassin Spire. Daniel a few pitches below the summit. Daniel on route below the summit. Daniel approaching the final steps to the summit of Assassin Spire. Lincoln Peak from the summit. Mt. Baker and Colfax Peak from the summit of Assassin Spire. Daniel on the summit. View to the west from the summit. Looking down from the summit. Me on the summit of Assassin Spire. Unclimbed ice on Lincoln Peak's NW Face. A close-up of unclimbed ice. A huge curtain of ice (WI6) below the hanging glacier on Assassin Spire. Sister's Range in fading light. One parting shot.

Trip: Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider Date: 3/6/2010 Trip Report: [video:vimeo]9993722 Over the last 23 or so years, I developed an interest (read: obsession) with the ice climbs up an obscure volcanic wall on the East Face of mt Hood. I first viewed the face while doing a solo ski traverse around the upper Mt. Hood in 1987. Jeff Thomas’ Oregon High book had some questions looking for any information on the Eiger like wall. The hook was very set, as it was basically untouched and offered 6-10 big climbs around 1000' feet tall. Without any info, I started a campaign of exploration up its many ice routes with great results. Steve Elder and I did the first ascent of the main wall in feb-94, followed by a couple other routes that were nothing less than astounding alpine climbs of the highest order. Then I began a long series of attempts on the “Center Drip”‘ that took the best line on the entire face. Finding never-ending setbacks with weather and conditions, my patience wore thin after more than a dozen attempts. It finally came together this March with reports of Ice on the wall from 2 great sources. My local Pullman partner , Beau- accompanied me on our successful bid. The climb went so very well.We did it in blocks with 4 total pitches , the final crux one was a full 60 m of airy positioning. The route was an instant classic and deserves many ascents in the future. Besides incredible ambience, It is a very doable route as well.We had a great time on this wonderful classic climb. Enjoy the pictures and video, It felt really great to wrap up such a project. I will do a blow-by blow if wanted and I must promote the new Climbing Guide to Mt. Hood expected out this fall! As always, looking forward to your trip report, Wayne My 38th ice pitch this season.

Trip: pyramid peak - fra ne face--larson/wallace, III wi 5 (1 pt a0) Date: 2/21/2010 Trip Report: wayne and i climbed a worthy variation to a minor obsession of mine on the ne side of pyramid peak. wayne was instrumental in getting us off the ground and things fell into place, so to speak, after that. we belayed 8 pitches to the junction with the north ridge then stomped up to the summit from there. five pitches were full value, the other three were change. hard to rate but the water ice crux seemed like a short but steep wi5 and was tough enough that wayne had to take a bit of rope tension to put in a screw and de-pump. the other pitches probably clocked in at snice/ice 4/4+ with some feet on the rock but i decline to give it any m-wtf grade just to keep things simple. expect runouts. on the hopefully attached photo, the route is immediately right of the red line on the lower face and immediately left of it on the upper face. the photo was taken by retrosaurus (mm) on a previous spring attempt in the mid-2000's. we found conditions similar to what is shown on the photo. as you can see, a direct start is still in the offing. i wrote this up as the fra of the ne face but am curious where the cotter-rusch route actually lies. the beckey bible says north face but having started up a route over there one spring, i never saw an chimney with "incipient ice". is it possible we repeated or did a variation to their route? anyone have some insight? Gear Notes: nuts and cams to 3", kb's and la's, a handful of shorter screws and a specter. Approach Notes: thanks to the party who tramped in before us on saturday morning. you saved us a ton of effort.

Trip: NF Colonial Peak - FA: "First Date" Gr.IV AI3/M3 Date: 2/21/2010 Trip Report: On Saturday Beau (pronounced "bow") Carillo and I (Geoff Cecil) headed up to the North Cascades to climb something on Colonial Peak. We had a few things we were very interested to climb. The trip came to together with the help of Wayne and a helmet that he let me borrow. Then I left it in the backseat of my car. I guess I'll climb something on the NF of Colonial without a helmet? The approach was too...awesome. We had an open bivy below the face. It was cold. Woke up to a perfect bluebird day! What were we going to do? Not Watusi Rodeo. My head would've turned into a smashed grapefruit on an ice route. So, we just started climbing straight up from our bivy site. We encountered alpine ice 3 for a few sections down low along with some steep (70-75) degree snow climbing. Got up into the unclimbed couloir. 60 degree snow which turned into some short AI3 sections along with some mixed climbing up top. We simul-soloed the whole route but brought a rope, ice and rock rack. Speed was our ally as I had no head gear and was paranoid of things melting and falling down on my head. We pushed hard to the summit and ran down and grabbed our packs and started the schwack/falling down over logs back to the car. A great route, beautiful day, and a great climbing partner! Thanks Wayne! Gear Notes: Tools, bivy gear, crampons. Approach Notes: Colonial Creek

Trip: Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, B.C. - Black Knight (FA) Date: 8/21/2009 Trip Report: A climb from summer 09' Mission: To climb Paupers Buttress, 300m 5.7, or put up something new. Paupers Buttress is on the Queens Face, next to Kings Peak. Located in Strathcona Provincial Park, Vancouver Island, British Columbia. Left after work Friday, August 21st. Drove to the Kings Peak trailhead. Got to the trailhead about 6pm, and got to the lower meadow around 7:30pm. Beautiful weather, with the exception of a faint Smokey smell, complements of forest fires to the South-East. Set up camp, had dinner, and prepped out gear for the following morning, which according to the weather reports, was going to be balmy. August 22nd, 5am: Up for breakfast and last minute gear checks. 5:30am: Hiking to upper meadow, then took the gully towards the hikers ridge, then about 2/3's of the way up, you cut up a short 15' rock band, and your on the lower moraine. This saves from needless 3rd class up the foot of the moraine. Handrailed the ramparts (on the right) and made our way to the toe of the glacier. 7:00am: Roped up for the short crossing. Global warming stole about 50 feet of glacier since last summer. Quite disappointing. 7:45am: Base of buttress, now all we had to do was to choose which corner system we wanted to take. We chose the furthest one, roped up and set off. Heres a breakdown of the pitches: P1: (5.9) Head up the corner, when it ends, traverse right, and belay from small corner (small gear in belay) P2: Head right and up small grassy gully, making an exposed hop onto the arete on the right. Continue straight up. Belay from tree. P3: Continue up grassy broken 4/5th class and belay from one of many trees. P4: Head straight up. # 2 Camalot in horizontal just off the belay, then up right on small step. Continue up and build belay in small "half-moon" flake. P5: Go up steep 12ft. high wall directly above belay. Head up, trending left, away from obvious arete on the right. Top-out on the huge ledge. Belay by slinging massive block on ledge. P6: Go right for exposed and loose traverse through huge gully. Go right and up 10' wall (red camalot) and go right, and belay from horn. Should still be able to see last belay. P7: Go straight up, small pro. 30m pitch, to gear belay. P8: Up to right facing corner. Pull on top of arete on the left. a 6" offwidth awaits you. I placed 2 chockstones in crack to help. Climb this, and climb a ramp leading left on good rock. Grey alien finger crack, follow that to the summit! On the route at 8am and at the summit around 2pm. And I'll try to include some pictures. Lower meadow Campsite Last minute business before getting on the glacier. Paupers Buttress (in the middle) Looking towards the arete and some other routes A glance down Kings Peak from mid-route Looking down from the summit Good day! Smoke blurred view of Colonel Foster (7000') Overall, super good trip. Lots more to come! Gear Notes: Rack: 1 set Aliens .75 -> 2 Camalots 1 set offset stoppers 1 set Superlight rocks 12 extendable draws Handfull of misc. Pins & hammer 60m rope & 8mm tagline Approach Notes: 2.5 to 3 hours to lower meadow. Approx. 1.5 to base.

Trip: Cody FAs + Bozeman Ice Festival Date: 12/7/2009 Trip Report: Summary: 12/4: PDX -> BZN; solo laps on G1 12/5: The Fat One, Magically Delicious and The Good Looking One w/ Drew, Pete and Dana 12/6: Get Bryan @ airport; drive to Cody and climb first 2 of Broken Hearts with Bryan 12/7: First Ascents of In a Silent Way (4p; WI4), Ice Bender (1p; WI4) and Hatebags Welcome (1p; WI3) with Bryan and Doug 12/8: Rest day; drive back to Bozeman 12/9: Rest/taper before comp: climb Palisade Falls with Bryan and Ryan 12/10 The Mammut Hyalite Ice Breaker Pro Invitational Competition (9 hours/10 routes/11 p) with Pat Wolfe. RIP Guy Lacelle 12/11: White Zombie and Thin Chance with Doug 12/12: The Big Sleep Aaron and Doug 12/13: BZN -> PDX Details: Given the events that transpired during this trip I struggled with writing this trip report. On one hand I had an awesome trip: 3 first ascents in one of my favorite ice climbing destinations with 2 of my favorite partners as well as sneaking up an Alex Lowe test piece the day before I had to drive home. On the other hand the death of Guy Lacelle: one of the humblest, strongest forefathers of this very sport. Both ends of the stoke spectrum unfortunately. I tried to keep the blabber to a minimum. Some pics: Pete looking good on The Good Looking One: Bryan on Broken Hearts. Given the temps that day Frozen Hearts would have been more appropriate First Ascents: Two years ago Bryan and I made the trek up Deer Creek to give Bitches Brew a go. We climbed the first two pitches but bailed given the condition of the 3rd pitch. Before returning to the car we opted to hike up the drainage just a little further just to see what we see. Not even 20 minutes up the drainage we spotted what appeared to be a few pitches trying to form. We asked Aaron Mulkey about it... he hadnt climbed it before but wasnt sure if someone else had and encouraged us to ask Stan Price about it. At the 2008 Ice Breaker Bryan and I cornered Stan and were stoked to find out no one had climbed it yet. A month after the Ice Breaker Bryan and I found ourselves back in Cody ready to return to Deer Creek. Unfortunately for us we found bad avy conditions and opted to bail. Our attempt would have to wait until next year. Unfortunately conditions a year later werent much better. Though the avy was safe the predicted high for that day was -2 F. When we left the car it was -14 F. Doug, my partner from AK, was in Cody so Bryan and I invited him along. Suck it up butter cup Return to Deer Creek We made good time and about two hours later were looking at this: unclimbed! Bryan on Pitch 1: Following pitch 1: Much to our delight another pitch awaited and Doug gladly led pitch 2. Doug on Pitch 2: At the top of pitch 2 we got really stoked... not only did our climb continue up the drainage but in the same amphitheater were 2 other ice climbs. We opted to follow the multipitch line as we didnt know how many more pitches awaited hoping we could snag the other two lines on the way down. We soloed an easy WI2 Soloing the third pitch: and found another pitch! John on pitch 4: Though Pitch 4 turned out to be the hardest pitch of the route it unfortunately was the last pitch that was formed for us so we immediately rapped and down climbed back to the 2 remaining unclimbed lines. Back in the amphitheater Bryan nabbed the center pillar... Bryan: ...and Doug led the final pitch of the day. Doug: All in all we climbed 3 new routes: a 4 pitch WI4, a single pitch WI4 and a single pitch WI3. Given the proximity to Bitches Brew we thought In a Silent Way was an appropriate name for the multipitch route. We named the center WI4 pillar Ice Bender in tribute to all the trips benders we've had in the past few years and lastly we named the WI3 Hatebags Welcome in honor of Doug's current residence Colorado. :laf: The next day Bryan and I rested and returned to Bozeman. The following day, the day before the comp, we took it easy and climbed Palisade Falls. Bryan on Palisade So the Ice Breaker... this was my second year and I was looking forward to another year of running around the canyon climbing as much ice as possible in 9 hours. I was paired with Pat Wolfe, a super strong local so I was stoked. Pat and I were assigned Twin Falls as the area we had to start in... we reached the base of Twin in 48 minutes from the parking lot After ticking Twin Right and Twin Left we worked our way to Unnamed Wall climbing Solstice, something between Solstice and Equinox, and Equinox. At Unnamed Wall we climbed Elevator Shaft, The Fat One, Magically Delicious, Jeff's Right, and The Thrill is Gone Pat on The Thrill is Gone: On the way back to the parking lot we ran into one of the comp organizers and learned about Guy's death and that the comp had been canceled. I'm not going to pretend I knew Guy well, unfortunately I turned down my chance to climb with him when I went to Cody earlier that week. That said he was one of the most humble, polite, kind climbers I have ever encountered. And best of all the dude crushed. He will be missed. RIP Guy. The following day Doug and I took it easy and played around on White Zombie and Thin Chance Doug: Saturday, my last day before having to drive home, I got to team up with Doug and another good friend of mine Aaron Mulkey for a run on The Big Sleep. "When fully formed The Big Sleep is as good as anything in CAN" JoJo After bringing Doug and Aaron up the initial pitch Doug stepped up to tackle the Alex Lowe 5.9R. He fired through the crux but broke a hold just short of the anchor. He hopped back on and sent Doug on pitch 2. I wish anyone who says 5.9 is easy would have to lead this pitch Aaron following the 5.9: he had to bare hand it Looking down midpitch following the 5.9 This brought us to the crux ice pitch... we didnt know what to expect... the book predicted somewhere between WI6 and 6+. Lucky for us Aaron leads Cody WI7 Aaron getting to the business: Aaron enjoying some spindrift midcrux: Looking up the pillar The pitch went much easier than I expected... we all agreed it would have been a 5+ in Cody, a 6/6+ in Colorado and unclimbed in WA :laf: Doug fired off the last pitch and took us to the ridge Doug on pitch 4: Aaron and I simul followed STOKE: BRAIN FREEZE! Love the spindrift! We tagged the top, rapped and hiked out for Epilogue: Though the passing of Guy was rough I still managed some great climbing with some great people. RIP Guy MANY MANY THANKS to JoJo, Coop, Greg/NLs, Barrel and everyone else that puts together such a great event as well as everyone that I got to climb with and/or meet this week! Gear Notes: I heart climbing with Mammut Athletes Approach Notes: zoom zoom

Trip: Del Campo - FA: Brawndo Date: 12/14/2009 Trip Report: On Dec. 14 A2THEK and I climbed a 2 pitch ice line on the lower N face of Del Campo peak. Unfortunately the fresh dump of snow on Sun. night stopped our progress up the rest of the face. It was still a worthy endeavor with a fairly short approach. We spied the line last week from Morningstar peak and made plans to come back and have a go. With the forecast calling for more typical Cascades weather we figured it was either Mon. or not at all for awhile. The approach was straight forward. Park at the Sunshine Mine trailhead, follow the trail to the major drainage that leads to the valley between Lewis and Morningstar. From here head straight up the drainage instead of following the trail up the avalanche slopes that head toward Headlee pass. Follow this to where the terrain steepens directly below Del Campo’s NF. The climb itself consisted of 2 full pitches. One being a thin mixed lead to an ice belay right below the upper tier. The second pitch was a full 55 meters of solid blue ice. We rated the climb 3+ R due to thin conditions of the lower pitch, although short screws proved useful here. Two double rope rappels from trees brought us back to the start of the climb. We decided to name the climb Brawndo in honor of the “Thirst Mutilator”

Trip: Lake Wenatchee - [FA] Alpine Dropout - 300m plus, WI3 Date: 12/12/2009 Trip Report: Ben Hargrove and I climbed a sweet new line on the north face of Nason Ridge - starting at Lake Wenatchee, topping out near Alpine Lookout and exiting below Round Mtn TH. The quality of ice, position and length of the route (over 1000 feet of ice, 4000 feet total ascent) made this unlike anything else in Leavenworth. Route overview (w/o lower 500 feet or upper 1500 feet to ridge): Started near the gravel pit and crossed the Little Wenatchee River which was barely frozen in one section (w/o the freeze this climb would end here since the river is too far to haul a boat too - unlike Drury's easy river access!). Ascended 1000 feet to the base of the ice. Route started with a 60m pitch of WI3. Ben leading P1: The climb then stayed in a slot surrounded by walls of the same high quality gneiss that is found at the Nason Ridge climbing area on the opposite side of the ridge. P2 was 60m of WI2 This lead to the crux pitch which was the only less-than-stellar pitch of the route since it was showering water and I got real soaked. We simuled the next 800 vertical feet with lots of great WI2 to WI3- sections up to 30m tall. Besides the cool feel of being high on a lonely north face, the views to the north of the Entiat Mtns and the Glacier Peak area was a nice change of scenery. After over 1000 feet of technical terrain, we dropped the rope and ascended about 2000 feet of snow to the saddle on Nason R just east of Alpine Lookout. The sting in the tail was the last 500 feet of deep snow pulling on trees while trying to not to victims of tree well inversion syndrome or collapsing cornices. We reached the ridge right at sunset. Homefree! A quick sprint for a about four miles east along the ridge, over Round Mtn and down 3000 feet to the second car on the road to Round Mtn TH. Not! Boot top breakable crust resulted in a five hour slog to the car. Actually, it was a calm, beautiful evening but too much calm, beauty is not healthy. Reached the car at 9:30 PM and Headwaters for pizza by 10:00. Stuffing our faces too much to join in the karaoke comp. Overview of our walkabout Bracing for the collective yawn and "oh boy, another WI3 in 11worth," this route is so much more unique than a typical Leavenworth dribble to nowhere. A 4000 feet plume line with over 1000 of quality ice ending on a remote ridge. Seemed similar to longer climbs in Lilooet or longer moderates in the Canadian Rockies. I doubt this one comes in much or is typically buried in snow. Name comes from finishing near Alpine Lookout and my rotator cuff surgery in May causing me to miss a complete alpine season for the first time in 17 years. Ouch, that hurt way more than the knife. Gear Notes: Screws only, GPS. Approach Notes: Need a frozen river or a boat. Do not traverse Nason Ridge over Round Mtn. Next time, I would try to drop the south side of the ridge somehow working around the cliffs which could suck too.