sobo

Try this.

Aw right, mebbe I'm getting too old for remembering things quite right. I still seem to remember going up and right, but iceguy's topo would seem to indicate that my brain has gone to shit.

Martin, IIRC, you stay with the right-trending (flared) crack; i.e., up and right after the last "zig". Rap off the backside, but you musta figgerd that out, cuz yer here.

Sweet TR!

Idaho Rock, Randall Green, 1987(?) I also have the 1st ed. of Chouinard's Climbing Ice, but mine's not signed.

I've got the same topo, but I've added some routes, a couple of which I put up about ten years or so ago. And then there's some contrived lines that a pair of brothers (The Mad Bolting Brothers) put up around the same time. Hope it didn't rain on you all weekend. I consider any trip to LD before June just too early and weather-dicey to make it worth the 5-hour trip.

Ah! Thanks for the info. Have you heard about Lightning Dome on the SF Clearwater River? Pretty close to you, great grano-diorite, free camping, picturesque valley setting, great apres climb swimming hole, no trail passes required, no crowds... It's still one of my favorite places to climb in the PNW, but now it takes me over 5 hours to get there, so it's really only good for 3-day weekends or vacations. For you, it would be about an hour southeast of Lewiston. PM me if you want directions, beta, or a copy of a (outdated) topo.

Wazzu, As a disenchanted student in the Palouse, where do you work that requires the use of these biners (if I may be so bold as to ask)? Are you really an AMGA guide? In the Palouse?

Hmmmmmmmmmmm... While I don't have any of these biners, the "captive eye" design for the runner appears that it might actually be useful, especially given the bent gate. But at ~$8/pop, I prolly won't be draining the bank account to get some.

No, just longer. Don't need a rope, unless you're gonna get really lost on top and end up coming down a glaciated route.

Ouch! Sounds like a long ski in. Or a quick ride on a snowmo...

Nahhhh, Greg_W spelz beddr n that.

Ridge should still be quite snow-covered this time of year. Later in the season, it will be a chosspile, like the thread Alex refers you to sez. If you can get to the TH relatively quickly from wherever you have to leave the car, you should be fine. You might want to think about taking an extra day that you normally would in the summer, just cuz of how far away from the TH you will be when you start. Have you asked the ranger how far the approach road to Killen Creek TH is open?

..but only on Saturday!

I second dat! Cabs, merlots, and syrahs - they's all good!

...or $180 Serengetis. Especially when your partner forgot his own glacier glasses and asked to borrow your spare pair of sunglasses before leaving the TH, then forgot them at the bivy. BTW... pair of Serengeti Drivers located in the rock bivy below the North Lyman Glacier route on Adams. Case included. Free to finder!

Jeezus, pzack, if you're gonna bivy at the top of the snow couloir anyway, you might as well start from the Lower East Ridge variation and do the whole thing. Would make for a fun 2 days that way.

I'll second what Alex said. You all will be fine, as long as you don't get f$%&ed by really shitty weather or a whiteout. Ya'll know how to navigate in a w/o, yes? Have fun. Read up or check in with Gator about trail conditions to Muir if you're still worried when you get there. Might want to have flotation available for everyone in the group if it gets precipitation. Alex had a nasty time with soft snow this past weekend on the Kautz - roughly the same elevation and aspect. Read his TR here.

Sorry you didn't make the summit, but it sounds like you had a blast, Alex. You made a nice go of it. Quite a bit different than on Adams this time last year, eh?

Or "crater poodles".

Was this the discussion you read? (discussion of WF of Matterhorn occurs late in thread)

Well, the discussion of the West Face of Matterhorn in the EC indicated that a line or two had been done, but they were not "true" diretissmas to the summit. So one could still argue that the West Face Direct of the 'Horn (it's "Nose") is still a contender. I imagine also that something along the Grand Canyon of the Snake River would contend as well. Isn't there something like 6,000 vert feet of relief around there?

...but I thought that some of our female cc.com'ers might enjoy this little ditty. Happy (post) Mother's Day! Position: Mother, Mom, Mama, Mommy Job Description: Long term, team players needed, for challenging permanent work in an, often chaotic environment. Candidates must possess excellent communication and organizational skills and be willing to work variable hours, which will include evenings and weekends and frequent 24 hour shifts on call. Some overnight travel required, including trips to primitive camping sites on rainy weekends and endless sports tournaments in far away cities. Travel expenses not reimbursed. Extensive courier duties also required. Responsibilities: The rest of your life. Must be willing to be hated, at least temporarily, until someone needs $5. Must be willing to bite tongue repeatedly. Also, must possess the physical stamina of a pack mule and be able to go from zero to 60 mph in three seconds flat in case, this time, the screams from the backyard are not someone just crying wolf. Must be willing to face stimulating technical challenges, such as small gadget repair, mysteriously sluggish toilets and stuck zippers. Must screen phone calls, maintain calendars and coordinate production of multiple homework projects. Must have ability to plan and organize social gatherings for clients of all ages and mental outlooks. Must be willing to be indispensable one minute, an embarrassment the next. Must handle assembly and product safety testing of a half million cheap, plastic toys, and battery operated devices. Must always hope for the best but be prepared for the worst. Must assume final, complete accountability for the quality of the end product. Responsibilities also include floor maintenance and janitorial work throughout the facility. Possibility For Advancement & Promotion: Virtually none. Your job is to remain in the same position for years, without complaining, constantly retraining and updating your skills, so that those in your charge can ultimately surpass you Previous Experience: None required unfortunately. On-the-job training offered on a continually exhausting basis. Wages And Compensation: Get this! You pay them! Offering frequent raises and bonuses. A balloon payment is due when they turn 18 because of the assumption that college will help them become financially independent. When you die, you give them whatever is left. The oddest thing about this reverse-salary scheme is that you actually enjoy it and then wish you could only do more. Benefits: While no health or dental insurance, no pension, no tuition reimbursement, no paid holidays and no stock options are offered; this job supplies limitless opportunities for personal growth and free hugs for life if you play your cards right.

Wrong! Archives are free for up to 7 days past event (see sidebar "clickable" on left side of ADN page linked above). A quick search gives the photo and article here.

I'm with Bug on this one. L-worth over a weekend. I'm still not guaranteeing ma boyah will be there, tho, so mebbe my vote doesn't count for shite.