erik

i'm with matt on this one...... i like to go out and meet different people that i might not meet otherwise.... pub clubs have led me to some interesting adventures and definatly to meet some great people...... there should not be an dissention in the ranks and other whom may not want to join the choosen venure should certainly go out and be merry, but not at the cost of talkin trash about the event.....bad form....... if you don't like the locaction or think that you are being wronged then suck it up and make the chouce next week... i thought we had kinda had a schedule decided a couple months ago.....s, s, t, o, s, s, t, o...... seems fair enough....

I WOULD TEND TO THINK THAT THE AVALUNG WOULD WORK ONLY IN A LIGHTER SNOW PACK.... WHERES AS THE YOU GET BURIED IN CASCADE CONCRETE THE AIR POCKETS WOULD SEEM SMALLER AS THE SNOW IS GENERALLY HEAVIER AND WOULD COMPACT MORE.... I DUNNO THOUGH WHAT DOES EVERYONE ELSE THINK....

t-town be repersentin......... though i will be there at 6:30-7ish......

jstreet, the ice around narada is the acutal falls....park in the sign lot and walk around to the view area....or you can hope over the barrier and rap down..... other ice in the narada area is ust west of the falls back towards longmire.....you will see it.. nothing harder then 3+ last year, but as you know can chage all the time.... there are also some good flows up from the nisqaully bridge.....(on the way to paradise) look towards the mtn as you cross the brodge and you will see what you are looking for... cascadeclimber i think went there this weekend.... also there is some more awesome ice in the vicinity but i will only sell that beta or give it to someone who is cool!!!!

* yawn *

quote: Originally posted by W: No way, Jose- the "man in uniform" with the ambiguous world view, in full rebellion to his authoritative employer, who is content earning a meager wage for the benefit of his job being totally independent and suited to his lifestyle will defeat the hairsprayed, foo-foo dick in the Porsche anyday! The former of the above has SO MUCH potential for the woman to want to try to CHANGE in him? Get it?!!? w i like your ploy, didnt see it like that hmmm.....maybe i will have to rethink it.....

mistake on my part...for the ingore....sorry nothing personal, just a computer ignorant person using one...

quote: Originally posted by CleeshterFeeshter: Yeah, Left wing in a perverted sort of way. I have my AR-15A2 (pre-ban of course) amongst other special left wing toys. Being this is spray and a free for all- Your terrorist is my freedom fighter. In case you have forgotten whom runs the show. “The oil companies want to go back in, big-time.” — CAPITOL HILL AIDE a quote from MSN regarding efforts to "rehabilitate" LibyaYou demopublican cheetos eatin sport climbing bolt clippin need to accept your slavery and bend over uh oh......cleester is off the meds again......

issaquah brew house is easy and good!!!! cc can you verify it......ray????

fun stuff eh loren??? but shhhhh!!!!

nelly......shhhhhh!!!! dont start with em....they'll never stop cryin... [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

if that is the case that is certainly too bad....a decent climbing resource sold down the creek for a new and improved sea-tac runway..... dont quote me (sure no one ever does ) i dont remember the name of the company that is going to do the strip minning off the hillside....but havent they had a few disasters in the past?? though i think exit 38 is technically part of the iron horse state park, managed by the lake easton park dudes..... wa state has a funny way of having not so close parks manage other low maintance parks...

quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: . Manufacturers should not even produce non-bi color or bi-pattern ropes now that they have the technology. Production cost is virtually no higher, so why do we even need single pattern/color stuff? cause sometimes Will, one of the bi-color patterns might not match yours or your climbing partners outfit.....or vise versa....., i mean what if you both cordinate off of only one color for your daze ansamble and not the other....??? think of what it might do for shoe selection!!!! get it together man....half of being bitchin, is lookin bitchin'!!!!

another thing just as bad as people who concern themselves with others spelling and grammer...... is people who tell other people to check thier private messages........sheesh!!!!!

quote: Originally posted by max: ...especially considering the intellect displayed in some posts! [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: max ] some day my dear you and i will meet and you will buy me beers so i am soo damn cool!!!! [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

quote: Originally posted by allison: Erik, Five miles each way is not acceptable. Especially when there's a perfectly good road that is open to the 8Mile TH. I think we'll be just fine parking at the 8Mile TH and walking the extra mile to the Colchuck TH. Sounds like the creek is passable if we decide to go that way. I am hoping to make that decision after the road is closed. If it look like we can't get in that way, any one been in to Lost World Plateau via either the Rat Creek or Hook Creek drainage? They both look heinous on the map! Oh, and thanks so much for the advice on packing my pack.....I couldn't have done it without you. easy there sista!!!! 5 miles is the hike up the closed road from 8mile campground....reread what i wrote.....8mile th is up beyond the road closure... chalk is unsighly and not needed at the crag or the mtns.....

nelly i will slighly disagree with you....me friends and i are all self taught.....we found in interesting after a friend came back from boyscout camp and then we were off..... granted i am sketchy but the guys that i satarted with fucking own this sport......and are onmly getting better everyday......then again i am getting better too.... but we took what we thought we knew, bought jon longs book we all read it and went out and applied it......it just takes careful thought and determination to to become safe successful climber..... and i think the best climbers i know are self taught....maybe it is that the are highly motivated and have the drive to become successful....and that is why they are able to learn the sport???? i dunno just a thought

quote: Originally posted by W: You got me there. money talks i guess. but young, poor, college intern hotties seem to think 12 bucks an hour is pretty decadent, and sexy. up until i crusie up in 01 carrea 4 asking if she would like to drive!!!! then maybe head to hawaii for the eveinng.... granted ladies i am still waiting for the 1st big check to clear, so it will have to be my pickup and a trip to the movie house for now and as far the antichrist goes, not interested i have already sold my soul.....

do a search i know this topic has been gone over a few times...... depends on what you are doing though really.....i mean the girth pillars now and rock would definaly needs a different rack then say e wilman spire...... there are always the trade offs, speed vs all the crap you want to bring.....i try to be flexable to what needs and conditions dictate......

quote: Originally posted by W: i got one- who do the chicks dig more, climbing rangers or guides?here's another one to think about-if a tree falls in the forest while a guided team is on the DC, does the guided team make a sound? [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: W ] thats not hard 'w', chicks dig the unhindered free alpinist...we have more time to woo them and do not carry loads of regualtions or newbies behind us....we are allowed to express out opinions at any time regardless anti govt or company!!!! and we make a lot more money!!!!!

rod, not bitch session or spray fest intended.... elitest- most of the guides i have ever met in the b/c tend to think that they are generally right or have the right of way...maybe i am off base in thinking so, but i am going off of what i know....this is how then tend their herd....impressing newbies....granted many amga or uiamga guides are excellent climbers, but it is not their job to force that on any one else....cause i suck and i have little interest in how good anyone climbs unless they are my partner, ya know.... granted beefcider is a beginner but he is/and should be able to have an opinion on what he goes through......granted there is and should be common mtneering sense displayed by the guide....that is why i made a safety statement..... i would think that all clients should have atleast some rudimentary abilites before joining up on a climb....if not then it should be the complanies job to intrusct that before getting into the field(just an opinion)...that way most important issues, wether it be glacier travling, crevasse work, anchors....etc.....can be addressed instead of wastng time on knot tying and belay skilzz. that way a client can focus on skills that need a specific enviroment to learn in.....and obviously the guide oversees it all..... rod as usual we both agree with each other, but have different styles and different ways to express what we know and believe and that is one great thing about climbing, it gives us that ability...... have fun and be safe....

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: You really have to differentiate between a "summit" trip and a course/school. Most guide services offer a summit climb where the focus is on taking the Walter Mitty types to the top of something. The idea is to only teach Walter just enough to not get him or others killed. Basicaly, if you fall self arrest and stay there until your guide says different. On the other hand the actual courses or schools tend to focus on learning the skills required to climb the peak your self. The 5/6 days courses generally focus on glacier travel and basic mountaineering. If you want to go the next step I know that Mountain Madness (yes I have a connection with them) and AAI each offer very good 13 day course that focus on most all aspects of glacier travel and alpine rock too. These are much more comprehensive courses than the 5/6 day courses offered by RMI. I would look closely at the cost difference. If RMI tells you that their course is more expensive because it also involves a summit attempt, I would look elsewhere. It may be that MMI and AAI 13 day courses are just a little bit more expensive but you get so much more instruction. Then again maybe not. Price them out. RMI does hire competant guides that are good instructors. There are a lot of posters here that think they know all about guiding and could do it better. They can't, that is why they're posting here. There are a lot of posters that just bitch about guiding in general. Ignore them, everyone else does. Whatever course you take post a review on it after you take it. Good luck. http://www.alpineascents.com/cascades-13day.asp http://www.mountainmadness.com/alpine/alpine.htm See how these 13 day schools compare to RMI's 6 day. Also always look at what comes with it. Do you have to bring your own food? How about gear? Ask all the questions. [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ] RODCHESTER IS WRONG.....guiding is a business, the point of a business is to make money...no matter what they tell you or you read their bottom line comes first....... now to get a good experience is comes down to you....it is what you make of it.... i once was interested in guiding myself, and investigated the only correct and real options for becoming a guide (uiamga and the amga) but after some thought considered selling my passion for a little money was not worth it. also rmi, aai mmi or any of the other big mtn schools have a herd/cattle tendency.....with young whipper snapppers like myself with glorious guide dreams twinlking in their eye. charging forward towards elitism...these people might be good climbers, but only the seasoned guides should be repspected..as they really know what guiding is all about...it should be humbling job where the clients wishes and safty are considered before anything else...you are paying for a service demand it.....ALWAYS AND I MEAN ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ATLEAST ONE CERTIFIED GUIDE WITHIN YOUR PARTY....IF THERE ARE NONE THEN YOU ARE WASTING YOUR MONEY....DO YOU PAY SOMEONE WHO WANTS TO BE A DENTIST TO WORK ON YOUR TEETH OR DO YOU PAY A DENTIST???? like i said guiding is good in some respects, but the way rodchester makes it out...it should be banned....

i am for the most part against guiding....but not completly......as it does not serve my needs or desires.......but not to say that it is not a valid way to gain some limited exeperince..... the thing about guiding is that most often it is just a reach the summit and come home type of operation...but your six day course sounds not too bad for what you are describing on what you want..... first things to think about in my opinion would be to ask yourself how much thinking do the guides let you do??? do they give you scenarios that allow you to practive learned skills??? especially without their interferance?? are they open to allowing you some type of (albeit limited) opinion on route finding or route choice??? do they allow you to lead in a controlled enviroment?? all these things are extremly important to safe mtn travel....i mean self reliance and a confidence in yourself....they can teach you things, but they can foster theses ideas within your head and possibly allow you to better yourself...thinking for yourself is the most important skill you can have up there.... i think most of us are against guiding as it takes away the self serving attitude that most of us carry......fair enough....as some people are quite capable and love the challege....even from the get go....but others might need the confidence boost or assitance with learning some new skills.... and the last and most important things is to make sure you have fun....if you are not having fun, then whats the point??

the tape idea is a bad one.....it can and will come off with one tight slide through the belay device......then it turns to litter and that sucks even worse...... make it with a sharpie pen....about 1" wide.....i know i have heard that this weakens the rope by a certain percentage on that spot....but i have yet to hear of it actually failing....so i am sure under perfect testing conditions when the marked portion of the rope falls over an edge it probably cuts...... i say mark it with a pen.....as far as the dark rope goes......still mark it with a pen..... i generally have a good feel for the rope and you can tell with good judgement if half is coming up or if you should look for your middle marker.... markers fade and leave no mess and taope falls off and litters....

quote: Originally posted by allison: Ouch. Nice thread drift, guys. Had to skim all of Page 2. I just got a permit in the mail for Aug 8-11. My buddies and I really want to off-trail it into Coney and beyond via the old logging road spur at the Colchuck TH. Assuming that there are not armed guards at the closure, seems like we might be able to park at eightmile TH and walk past the construction in the evening without making any major disruption. I've never been up that road past the eightmile TH, how feasable is it that if these bridges were under construction, that we could walk through? I am a climber, but the guys I'm going with are not, and we will not have any gear with us except maybe I'll bring a pair of slippers and a chalk bag. allison, crossing the icicle creek in aug should not be too bad, there is a mellow crossing at the camp ground...wading thorugh the creek...though i do not think that parking at 8 mile would be a good idea, especially if the rangers are aggro, might give them a new spot to harrass fun doers......probably start your hike later in the evening....after beers at the bar.... crossing 8 mile creek further up ther road about 4 miles(?) is real chill in aug just a little hopping... the hike up the road is boring and easy....nice views of cannon mtn....adds 5 miles(?) one way... matt, remember astrisk pass is at smith and asgard is in the stuart range....oops!! though he is right the bouldering is off the hook, though save the weight and don't bring the chalk bag......