erik

i have all my cams doubled and find that with that i tend to want to bring more and what not....big mistake (i think) i have started to only operate with a set blue tcu through #4 camalot......and i guess i bring stoppers too(anyone now how to use those things?) but for doubling up i would say get sizes that you find hard to climb...for me it would be the .5-.75 range those tights hands get me every time.....and maybe the orange tcu(imo is a great piece) the yellow tcu/alien is a great finger size.....so maybe pick up another blue tcu(tight fingers).... i think purple and grey tcus have really limited applications and i even sometimes dont even bring them, work da stopper.......but i am weak too and love to just push a cam in...... after that even though a 2" hand crack is bomber maybe get a double of that as it kinda spans the 1" - 3" range kinda....... but always remember when in doubt run it out!!!! wasting too much energy trying to fiddle the gear in is what causes the fatty whippers.......

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here is couple other dangerous setups i wouldnt want to use

WEWW YOUR MOM CAWWED ANS ASKED ME DO COME OVER DONIDE DO SERVICE HER AND YOUR YOUNBER SISDER...INDIAWWY WAS SHOCKED SINCE YOUR FAMIWY IS A WIDDWE DIFFEREND DHEN MOSD....SO I DHOUBHD DHAD WAS YOUR JOB...... AND I DOND KNOW WHAD DHE ODHER SDUFF WAS YOU WERE DAWKINB ABOUD....SDICKY ICKEY??? I AM CONFUSED IS DHAD A VERSE IN DHE BIBWE???

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: “Porr Spelling and grammer reflect porly on are sport” How will we be judged. WITH A BEER IN OUR HAND, A SMILE ON OUR FACE AND A HOT SEXY WOMAN WHO SHARES OUR LOVE FOR THE MOUNTAINS AND FINE CULTURE IN OUR ARMS!!!! JERKS!!!! [ 03-21-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

UMMMMM.....DO I KNOW YOU???

i think freeclimb eluded to the real issue when he was suggesting the use of stimulants.... carry on boyz and gurlz

freeclimb9 recommending a controled substance like any of the 'phine' family is completly irresponsible....those drugs even they are legal are pure shit......they have no benefit to your system and actully work harder to hurt you then do good...... i do use gingsing and have found that in limited quanities works quite well.....ask timl...or juan or hollywood or wallstein....but that 'phone' shit is just that....it is also an antioxident. those 'phone' drugs break down bone mass and create lots of cramping.......plus like you said the shaking effect is utterly bullshit....there is a reason they are the key compents to meth and other shit drugs....... no on the 'phines'

lamebone is where all us desk monkeys want to be.....in da valley!!! hope he likes snow!!

as roger stated once again the best stuff comes from tacoma!!!!!!!!!! and roger you are right!

quote: Originally posted by W: btw, GU is great. But I always take a little solid food. After about 15-18 hours, GU alone ceases to cut it for me. After that much time, a brew stop is probably in order anyway. yes a couple beers is required gear for any type of strenous activity..... 'w' usually a voice of reason!!!

still seattles turn, but i think hikerwa and i thought alki is a great place to drink!!!!!!!! and that makes it 38 minutes drive for me and a 10 minute drive for most of seattle...... whiners please line up at the end of the dock.....the boat will be here soon.....

1st of all on your first extend sleep deprived trip i would say expect to fail....especially if you need to ask the risk/benefits..... this type of single push mentality (like what wallstein is talking about) is a game...sure you can climb it in 4 days or hike it in 5 days....but how far can you really get??? it is a fun game, but adds a substantional risk while climbing or doing whatever.... the benefits for this are nil....it is completly self serving idea and if you are not ready for yourself to be out of your own control, then you are not ready....you must be in control at all times.....mental weakness will have the animals eating your corpse and your mother crying..... you must control all aspects of the game...mike alludes to partner difficulty....this is probably the biggest issue as little things tend to become big things.....you need to stop that.....and reconize the each others weaknesses and strenghts and capitalize on both........and if you cannot work as a team then forget about it....... i have just started dabbling in this arena and am quite excited about it.......i will report more as the seasons get nicer...... i am choosing this for personal acheivement and the fact that i am fat and lazy and just want to carry the extra gear....

quote: Originally posted by Szyjakowski: i thought i was yer budy eriK oye yeah..me done forever with skool yeah for you!!!! no more skool!!!!!!!!!! so what are you going to do with your jr high completion certificate!!??

on the workers who make are climbing crap.....most of my stuff is bd...most of that is made in slc.....most of my soft goods are arcteryx....made in n van b.c. pretty good working conmditions there....all my capiliene is made in the usa...though i do have some articles made else where i am sure that their payment for services rendered is what their local economy can handle.....yvon is a nice guy!!!! and neri....the prison is minimum security....so i doubt these people/prisners are a real threat most society. [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

oh well that is price you pay...... drive safe.

so in the last week we here at cascadeclimbers.com have been blessed with the fine representation and a luck luster representation by two seperate climbing gear manufactures........ now here is what i find interesting..... splitter gear....seemed quite unpleasent to deal with, he shared no way into which to contact him, he seemed abrasive about comments about his up and comming super extra gear...and seemed to base the greatness of his gear on a mag review, and unnamed well known climbers (how are they well known if we don't know their name?).....seems silly to me that a company who wants to break into a crowded market would act like this...maybe they are young, maybe they are passionate....i say whatever dude!!!!! now we have omega pacific....people are attacking complany ethics and quality issues....the omega pacifc repersenitive replied and addressed all concerns clearly and most excellently with all the needed info to keep the masses content and reasoned....bravo!!!! now we can see why this company is successful and has a strong following locally and abroad...plus they are helping many troubled people in the process and help return their success to the community.....excellent job!!!! what do you all think???? discuss.... [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: erik ] [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

quote: Originally posted by jhc: Thanks, I think we are just going to boulder at Bishop for the week. My big question is where should I cut over to 395? bend oregon....go through kalamath falls...or you can cut over at weed, ca.... though i would recommend purchasing yourself a road atlas is you seriously have these questions....not being mean just realistic. [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

quote: Originally posted by scorpion: what the fuck? you tweakers are going to slam in bolts when the pins break anyway. don't o.d. your pins and don't fucking tell me what to take and what to leave, when to stay and when to go. booty is booty is booty but recovery is a slow and unnecessary process. if your worthless ass feels the need to steal some pins, then my worthless ass my feel the need to steal your tires..... both statments above are assinine, the second was prepared to illustrate this....both acts being selfish and quite improper.....and people who particapte in such acts are vagrants......and should be treated as such...... have fun!! and the route is quite fun....slime or no slime....the green drag-on is all about the slime..... [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

quote: Originally posted by tobytortorelli: deal with it you f*&^@%#g pussy. i skied blower 15 degree pow at baker today and yesterday, some of the best turns of the year. don't like more snow??? go back to the east coast. f@#^in' gay wad. little boy shut your mouth....i have emailed this to your mother....and remember she holds the bill to your credit card........ this is why bellingham sux.......... and i want all the damn snow to go away....sure skiing is fun, but seriously people........rock is waaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyy better.....!!!!!!!!!!! and little boy shhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!! no one asked!!!!!!

quote: Originally posted by mtngrrrl: i just read on smithrocks.com that you cannot camp in your car at the state park. d'oh! we were planning to sleep in our vehicle in the parking lot while some friends tented. except for the steamy windows, who would know, right?? having never been to smith before, can anyone tell me how rabid the rangers are? they will bother you....either a kindly elderly person or a less kind elderly person.... just camp at the grasslands, bon fires and no water but waaaayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy beter scene....forest ranger rollz thru monday late am...have your toyz picked up...... cruel sister and the one to the left of it are very fine .10a's......and some other one by the cat wall.......meow!!

i prefer to climb with smaller partners so incase i do run out of gear or whatever i can have them zipped up to me, at that point i try to equalize their neck and other male compoents with one spectra sling, a regular webing sling and 13 seperate biners all made from seperate manufactors.......slave labor, prison labor and labor of love are all factors in my choice of biners...... this sytems works well as it teaches me the pateience i need whilst choosing parterns for those harder more runout routes.....i will be the fat one on the sharp end...... and i came up with that with 80 community college credits, a asa autobody and refinnish tech course.....and all 4 harry potter books.....

the question that arises for me, is what benefit do the people/tax payer of washington state get???? are we not paying to house these people??? and they are being used/working for a private industry..........i imagine some or most of their profits (prisinors) goes to pay restitution to their victems??? and i dont like op stuff........just my opinion

well in that case pete......for the salathe get good at free climbing, cause if you are like me all those 5.5+ pitches on that thing will work the 5.4- leader.....work your big wide stufff too..... zodiac just go clip up tc like 50 times.....fixed gear practice......... w face of el cap , i duno go climbing..... endurance, will be important for you, not only muscualr but cardio too, causei know us 5.4- climbers like to move fast and get the shit doNE QUICKLY SO we may have more time for beer and other valley recreations.....women, hiking, sleeping and beer........so remember to run like 20 miles a week....i have found that that keeps my fat ass hal way in shape.....though the beer is working hard to keep me slow..... free climbs..head to index and do as many pitches as possible.....lots of good 5.6- routes there to get you rerady for the valley.... basically ole' boy get the mileage and everything else will seem like college.....drunken fun in the sun!!!! see you in the fall down.....!!! [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

thats kinda vague hoomeboy, whatca plan on doin???