dberdinka

BELLINGHAM Lots of good rock climbing no more and no less than 2 hours away (Sqish, Index, Darrington, etc) Lots of good mountains no more and no less than 2 hours away (N Cascades, Chilliwack, Coast,etc) Lots of good skiing no more and no less than 2 hours away. (Baker, Washington Pass, etc.) Lots of rain no less than 2 hours away. Haaah! Lots of good food no more than 5 minutes away! Yummy! [ 02-28-2002: Message edited by: dberdinka ]

I can't stop! So much weirdness!! AAaaaaghh! Ok, so this isn't really my story but it's a good one, I think this guy got sick of me asking him to tell it. Names have been changed to protect the innocent. Again, quite a while back, say ten years ago, two buddies of mine Steve and Clark took off to traverse the Picket Range. Like everyone they were going to hit it all, so there packs were loaded down with rock gear, ice gear and 10 days of supplies. Needless to say they were heavy. The weather was a mix of good and bad, and after summiting Challenger they head down into Luna Cirque intent on the North Rib of Fury. Just as they start down, Clark dislocates his knee in a stretch of talus. Swollen to the size of a cantalope they know they're screwed. Steve shuttles the packs down into the basin were they spend the last beautiful night of the trip. The next day begins with a low ceiling of grey clouds and a light drizzle. Unable to climb up, they start bushwacking down Luna Creek. and bushwacking, and bushwacking,........and bushwacking. On the morning of the third day they finally hit the Big Beaver Trail. By now the weather has turned to the worse. A constant cold rain has fallen for days. Low on food, Clark takes whats left and Steve cruises out to the road to arrange a boat shuttle for the next day. Still unable to put much weight on his knee, Clark hobbles down the trail using a large branch as a crutch. It's 12 miles to the lake and the rain isn't stopping. Step, step, step......step. Evening approaches, in the gut of the valley it gets dark early. There is no one within 15 miles. The headlamp comes out and he continues to hobble down the valley. Step, step, step. By 10 PM the rain is falling harder than ever, Clarks exhausted, the headlamp is on it's last legs too, casting a feeble orange glow that flickers in and out. But he only has a mile or two left. Resting against a boulder he listens to the drumming of the rain. RRRRRRRaaaaaaaaarrrrggGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!! From across the river this enormous, throaty scream rips loose and fills the valley. Clark later describes it as being angry, pissed, coming from something huge. Some beast in the forest soaking wet voicing it's frustration. With out hestiation, Clark leaned up on his stick and continued to hobble out, step, step, ..step. Like someone else said, Sasquatch is nocturnal! Scary!!!

One more It took me two trips to the Valhalla Range to climb the South Arete of Gimli. Both times the area was very dry, quiet, still. It's hard to explain but it certainly has a very desolate, melancholy feel to it (this was before it's recent explosion in popularity). On the first trip my partner was wigged out by this atmosphere I described and we bailed a few pitches up and headed out. On the second trip we hauled bivi gear into the flat bivi area near the route's base and climbed it that day. On the final summit ridge my partner stepped onto a 2000+ pound block that immediately started sliding. After surfing it for a foot or two he hopped off. The thing acclerated before taking a 1000' plunge to the talus (and trail!) below. But that wasn't the weird part. That afternoon we're hanging out near our camp. It's just compact dirt and heather with a few boulders strewn here and there on the top of a broad ridge Sleeping bags, bivi sacks clothing are strewn about in the sun. We're sitting about 30' away from the stuff. Again it's perfectly still, quiet, lonely. I feel the lightest brush of wind against my cheek and suddenly all that gear is floating straight up into the air. A pile coat, full sleeping bag, bivi sack are just elevated like 10 feet straight up in the air, flapping about like they're trying to fly. My buddy is running around under the bivi trying to grab it but it stayed out of reach for a good 5+ seconds before drifting back down. If it were some sort of micro gust it packed an incredible amount of energy and focus. Never felt a breeze again that day.

Many years ago I spent a cold dark evening in the Blue Lake parking lot. It was late in the year when the morning chill hangs around till afternoon if it doesn't refuse to leave at all. My girlfriend at the time and I drove up to camp out at the trailhead. We arrived late, probably 10 o'clock. Being October traffic was light to non-existent on the highway. As we sat on the tailgate brewing some tea it was eerily quiet and still. There was no sound, no movement. Not even the whisper of a slight breeze or the humm of an insect. Just the silhouette of tall trees outlined by the faint glow of a moonless sky with a cold mist crawling through their branches. We felt small and exposed. And without notice the trees began to shake violently, a strong wind ripped through the parking lot, blowing my pot of the tailgate and knocking branches to the ground. As quick as it came, it was gone again. Once again the trees, the night, the air were perfectly still, perfectly quiet. No sooner had I walked over to pick up the pot, that a bone-chilling wail came shrieking out of the forest. Not a bark, not a growl, not a howl. Instead a deep, warbling cry that reeked of loneliness and pain. Then once again we were surrounded by a silent, motionless night. We crawled into the canopy locked it from the inside and slept a dreamless sleep.

Stonewabbit?

So Cpt. I here you're a nice guy. But in the middle of a completely mellow, maybe boring, information based thread you unleash with this syphilictic rant against people who haven't even posted in it. Excuse my ignorance, but what in the hell are you talking about?

Lambone, Late March last year was perfect. Clear, calm and 70 degrees. Just like everywhere else look for the crowds of people to find the "significant other who just started climbing" (I'm so PC) routes. A few standard classics are Cat in the HatDark ShadowsFrogland Definitely check out the Necromancer Wall for a set of great single pitch routes, first pitch of Frigidair Buttress is also good and in the same area. I've been told that there are some stellar 2-3 pitch 5.6-5.7s directly across the Black Velvet Canyon from a Dream of Wild Turkeys etc. They've never been written up in a guide so lack the crowds. A very strong climber was raving about it after getting crowded off any of the classics in there. Black Dagger is a pretty awesome trip that seemed sorta commiting for a 6 pitch 5.7+. Definitely worth doing.

It's lookimg a little to vertical but Mt. Lindeman?

I still beat you Jordo. Hah! I win! What do I get for my troubles Drul? A free guided bushwack up something I (and no one else)have ever heard of? An oppurtunity to belay you on a mossy pitch of Culbert low-5th shi(s)t? Some of Canada's finest herbal remedies? Keep the obscure peak photos coming, maybe I can dredge up some of my own. Peace

Blanchard Needle?

Why go ice climbing? When you could ski the pow pow! Standing around sucks!

Good luck bro. If you choose not to suffer the long approach (definitely checkout mtnphil.com's most recent trip report) consider the NW side of Mount Shuksan if you're looking for steep, hairball, big mountain skiing. The approach is a matter of hours not days. The North Face, Northwest Couloir and White Salmon Glacier have all been skied. Though beware, the entire White Salmon valley (and the routes) are total avalanche death traps. I wouldn't be there, or on any other big mtn face, in winter unless avi conditions were practically nonexistant. Particularly watch out for the hanging glacier, that sucker can cut loose in a big way regardless of NWACs reported avalanche conditions.

Ok, so I'm not Dru but I have climbed in the area on a couple occasions. The climbing is a blast though don't expect to find Squamish quality rock. Steinbok is an absolutely amazing looking piece of rock with the buttress being the defining line in the area. The is a write up on bivouac.com about the first free ascent. Sounded like the rock was great, the cracks were dirty and the pro was sketchy. Definitely worth a visit if you live in the PNW. If your down in CO it's probably a little obscure and out of the way to be worth a vacation in and of itself. Also, The photo in the book definitely does it justice. [ 02-05-2002: Message edited by: dberdinka ]

Hey Mike, or anyone else in the know, what's the deal with the large icefalls that form up on the east side of the Nisqually River maybe a quarter mile above the bridge. What you can see from the road looks tough but I've also seen a bigger, fatter, mellower flow while skiing down from the glacier? Any beta?

Red Rocks! Spent spring break there last year, temps and weather was perfect. The new camp ground is finally pleasant and the climbing superb.

Cirque of the Towers is great! Deep Lake might even be better!! Both areas are accessed from Big Sandy Lake which is beautiful in it's own right. I once spent 5 days in the Deep Lake are and saw only one group of hikers, you'll never get that solitude in the Cirque. Either way, the Wind Rivers are some of the most beautiful country I've ever been in. Think Enchantments for 200 miles. As for Routes there are tons of great ones. My favorites would be In the Cirque SW Face of Sharfin IV 5.8 Long approach to a very alpine feeling rock climb. Great rock and an awesome summit E Face Left-side Cracks Pingora IV 5.7The best 5.7 climb you'll ever do. Pitch after pitch of awesome hand cracks. More direct, clean and continous (and easier) than the NE Face Routes I haven't done that look good areN Face of Mitchell IV 5.9 - killer lookingdihedralS Face of Wolf's Head 5.10+ Nice looking face In Deep Lake there are even better climbs! N Ridge of Steeple III 5.8 Beautiful climbing with an awesome chimney on a sweet looking peak. SW Face of Haystack IV 5.10b Long pitches up dihedrals and splitter cracks on perfect rock. Minor Dihedral of Haystack IV 5.9+ More of the same! Killer! SW Face of Lost Temple Spire IV 5.10 You'll feel like your in Patagonia. Steep, difficult climbing in a shady, windy local surrounded by steep walls. The final chimney is spectacular. There are another half dozen routes on Haystack alone I'd like to do. Now that I think about it, I've never climbed a bad route in the winds. Enjoy! OOPs! I got so excited I forgot about the low/mid 5th request. Standard route on Sharkfin would be an exciting 5.6 on excellent rock. Overhang Tower can be climbed by a pitch or 2 of low-5th. Around Deep Lake the S ridge of Haystack looks excellent as does the NW (?) ridge of Temple. This would be a huge climb/scramble to low-5th that is supposedly excellent. [ 01-22-2002: Message edited by: dberdinka ]

Location: S Arete S Early Winter Spire Cast:MeMy girlfriendThe ubiquitous loud female Mtnr trip leader1000+ basic students1 very hesitant basic student Story:After several hours sunbathing the final Mtnr rope team started up the route! Loud lady, who hadn't shut up in the last 10 years, was belaying hesitant student, who was becoming more hestitant by the second. Loud lady was out of sight, but certainly not out of earshot. She continued to bark orders and share her unsolicited opinions with everyone from Marblemount to Mazama. It appeared that she had forgotten how to belay as there was 15+ feet of slack in the rope as hesitant student approached the crux move 15 feet off the ground. Hesitant student cried. hesitant student wimpered. Things looked bad. In a fit of self righteousness I yelled up to loud lady "Up rope on your follower". Loud lady yelled back "Fuck you!" Huhhh? Hesitant student still cried, still wimpered. Once again in the face of adversity I yelled up "Up rope on your follower". Silence.... What will loud lady say next I wondered? Soon the rope snaked away leaving hesitant student on an adequately tight belay as she manuvered through crux. As the day wore on I had the pleasure of sharing a belay ledge with loud lady who offered some sort of apology like "Oh, I didn't understand what you had said". Right... Beware, the Mtnrs Loud Lady. [ 01-16-2002: Message edited by: dberdinka ]

In winter and early spring the valley is generally a mess of avi debri. Add in the long road approach and there are probably better peaks in the area to climb. Goat Pk and Shuksan can both be great winter climbs, the latter being more committing. Oh, Mattp is definitely correct about the rope.

Rafael, I haven't looked this year but with all the warm weather this year I can't imagine it's much of anything. Last year while skiing Lake Anne Butte I recall seeing other/smaller lines that made me pause momentarily and this was during some warm sunny weather so maybe there is some credility in an earlier post. Anyway, this possibly existent line is located near the head of Swift Creek on a large rock wall forming the back half of Hemispheres, which is the large snow dome forming the end of Shuksan Arm. From the upper lot follow the boundary cat track to Austin Pass (30 min) drop over the back side down into Swift Creek (good tree skiing). Head down valley breaking out into a big flat open section of valley (1 hr total). I've seen big fat ice forming on large rock wall to left (North). Like said maybe it's there maybe it's not. If I see it again I'll post.

I'm a 'Hamster who's spent a fair amount of time skiing the BC around the end of Highway 542. In several years a massive flow has formed on the backside of "Hemispheres" in Swift Creek Drainage. I'm not much of an ice climber but I'd guess 500+' of WI4-5-?. Unfortunately I've never seen it touch down. Kinda like Terminator in leaner times. While touring around Table Mtn, only once has the infamous Death Picnic appeared fat in the last couple of years. Have at it boys.

Plexus. Can you get a key for the BIG gate blocking the Howard Creek Road? The one with the Elk closure sign? If so it seems you could drive almost to tree line below the Last Sister. Just went into Barbara on Sunday. Ended up bailing after a late start and a lack of time. Beautiful peaks for being less than 6000'!

WSDOT is now postponing the reopening of the North Cascades Highway until Monday at the earliest. Maybe they mean 11/19/01 or maybe 05/23/02. Regardless it looks like the skis will stay put in the closet this weekend.

Lambone, this year the telemetry data seems really screwed up at a lot of stations. Mid season they seem to track snow depth a little more consistently.

Back on track.... A Haiku epic I once wrote after an attempt on the N Face of Fernow failed 200' below the summit "Haiku is a traditional Japanese verse form, notable for its compression and suggestiveness. In three lines totaling seventeensyllables measuring 5-7-5, a great haiku presents, through imagery drawn from intensely careful observation, a web of associated ideas....." Car, boat, bus and trail Sounded so simple at home Now a real headache. The town of Holden Scenic wonder of the hills Built on toxic dirt. Pleasant suffering Crawling through the slide alder Entering the wild. Citadel of rock towering into the clouds bigger than we thought. High on a north face Our minds travel somewhere else Time to go back down. Percaset pillows Seperate mind from body Laughter fills the woods. Camping in the woods Twenty hours which to pass It seems like forever. Lead, zinc and copper Elements of deadly brine Waiting in mine shafts. Happy Luthernans Frolicking in the mountains On a toxic mine.

There are 14 named summits in the Twin Sisters. As told to me, Dallas Kloke has attempted the full traverse at least once in recent years. After the first 13, from South to North, bee stings (???) stopped him before the North Twin. While I haven't been anywhere in the southern part of the range, I think the full traverse would definitely require a car shuttle and be best started in the south. There are 2 approaches, 1 up logging roads from Hamilton and another from the Baker River somewhere. The valleys along the west side of the range are not straight forward and trying to back track to your car sounds like an epic. If you're thinking of just the N and S Twin approach from Nooksack River. The logging roads are now gated far from the mountains. Bring a mountain bike, or you'll be cursing yourself on the way back. W Ridge of N Twin is a good mixed climb, the is a long coulior on the SE side that can be descended and the W Ridge of the S Twin is reported to be a good mixed climb as well. If you do the full traverse, pleaase leave us a report!