dberdinka

Peridition or something like that. The Skoogs put some nice sounding routes up on it. Nice photos!

Agreed. Have world class cragging 15 minutes out of town and 300+ days of sunshine a year is going to make for a technically more competent climbing culture. I'm not sure the ratio of crag-to-"alpine" climbers is any different anywhere else. At least thats what I blame it on everytime I going climbing with my friend from Boulder.

Nice TR Rad. I had my own bushwack epic BITD doing that approach for the first time in the dark, though not quite as epic as yours. Linkup of Roan/Salish? Sounds like a nice summer.

How many people are projecting 5.12 in Boulder Canyon vs. establishing or climbing 5.12 in the Black? Is it really any different than here? Seems like the weather is to bleak around here for the diehards to stay put (a lot of strong climbers I knew BITD moved to CO) and the generally lengthy approaches (other than WA Pass) limit the interests of folks who focus on technical skill.

Heading over to Mazama for a four day family reunion. Want to take the kids climbing at Fun Rocks. How is it? Any recommended routes/rocks/obscure slabs for top roping 4-8 year old kids on their first outdoor outing? Thanks!

+1 for Marks link to Chris Macnamaras website. If you start and learn to aid climb without daisies you will be far more efficent and fast.

When I drag my friends out to climb walls they tend to quickly settle for the single jumar/Gri-gri combination due to a greater sense of security. Two jumars is way more efficent for general jugging/cleaning though I'll switch to the jumar/Gri-gri for significant overhangs (real easy to go back and forth) Frog sounds great for free hanging ropes but I've never tried it as I've never fixed lines on the SE Face of El Cap and I'm of the impression it takes some specialized equipment and tuning to get just right.

I'm not sure whats more impressive. The climbers or the technology used to film it. Crazy world we're living in.

For those of us who don't crank 5.12 supposedly the historic north buttress is actually a good route.

Stunning John. Just incredibly stunning.

Those glaciers are amazing for the variability they exhibit year over year. When I climbed North Rib in 2004? the North Slesse Glacier was hardly more than a snowfield.

That looks amazing!

Wow. Definitely not the Cascades.

You're a hater. What the DEB of Liberty Bell?

Gene and I did this route 10? years ago. P1 off the big ledge is C1 until the last few moves which were either KBs or LAs (A1). P2 (crux) took a SO off the belay then hooks and cams followed by the long beautiful corner where I definitely used LAs. I'm not sure how you would do this clean unless you had a triple rack of Lowe Balls or something, it's not scars just a long 1/4" wide crack in a corner. Couple crappy heads at the top you might need to replace. I would bring 3-4 KBs, 6-8 LA, a couple SO 1/2" - 3/4" and some heads.

Beautiful Area! Question? What is your calorie intake on a day like that. How much and how often of what?

That is awesome. This post needs pics......

Nice photos. I climbed that route many years ago and really enjoyed it. Fact is there are not a whole lot of routes that combine steep (well relatively steep) glacial ice and exposed rock. It's one of the few.

Sunday August 12th. Picked up by Adam (Leavenworth) and Ema (Squamish) as they strolled past. PM or e-mail me dberdinka AT gmail DOT com and we can work something out. Thanks. Darin

Hey Rad. Ramuta just turned around two pair of shoes in less than two weeks. You can always call and ask. Amazing work as usual. I called Barry and it was 6-8 weeks.

Bump for my own TR. Climbed Ellation on Saturday. It's almost completely dry with the exception of a move or two on the 3rd, crux pitch. My Colorado buddy thought it was worthy. Chalk on the route and a small loose hold on pitch 4 had recently given up the ghost so it's getting some traffic. Upper pitches are very clean and the final pitch now goes free with a single move of 11- (or C0). Anything harder than 10b/c is easily yarded past if need be. Climbed another three pitch line as well that ended in "Daves Grand Dihedral" a low-angle 140' 5.7 corner with a hand crack running up the entire thing. From the mid-height grassy ledge of Ellation walk right around the corner 150' and look for an intimidating layback flake that leads to a small roof, 10+ or 11- but really hard to get the gear in (maybe it needs a few B.L.Ts). Next a very cool bolted 10- arete pitch leads to base of the Dihedral, mossy at the start but cleans up quickly. Made for a good picture at least.

If you want to climb a big route on Slesse consider the North Rib over the Northeast Buttress. It is a far superior climb with a much, much safer approach particularly for a heavy snow year like this one when the pocket glacier might never fully eject.

The approach on the east side is absolutely beautiful and the shwacking is tame (all blueberries, (almost) no devils club). Still if you want pitches go to Squamish, if you want a wilderness experience close to home the Green Creek Valley can't be beat. With a multiday trip in there, either basecamping or traversing you could knock off a lot of good routes from the Mythic Wall, to the South Twin, Skookum, Cinderella.....

It's good to see a shout out for the Que-Car-BBQ. They really do have the best food in the Cascades. Their hours can seem a bit short after the long drive down from the pass but so be it. If they're open you would be out of your mind to pass them up for "Good" food.

Thats the backside of the South Twin. I downclimbed the ridgeline (NE ridge) in the middle of the frame. Leland, what did you think of the route on Skookum?