layton

You really can't see the ridge from anywhere, it's pretty guarded. Maybe the immortal John Scurloc can grace us with an overview?

Trip: Mt. Triumph - FA SW Ridge - Layton/Wallace III 5.8b Date: 9/2/2007 Trip Report: This summer has been a long string of alpine failures. Wayne and I were 0/2 on our big project list, and with a shitty weather forecast, we were thinkin' it was going to be 0/3. Rain, shitty routes not worth finishing, partner failure(Bailure), and too much work finally caught up with me this summer. So with nothing better to do than try another one on the "list", Wayne and I did a lap around Mt. Triumph via a new route on the Southwest Ridge and down the NE ridge for full mountain circumnavigation. Having been told by irate girlfriends, annoyed climbing partners, rangers, and hapless co-workers that I was a bit rough around the edges, I decided to make the best out of my "time to think" at camp saturday night I don't know what the fuck this "Dale" guy is talking about Of course along the way, we followed proper protocol and picked up a permit. Thanks NPS for your permission to use "your" wilderness! Wayne and I had a great time walking on durable surfaces, collecting our waste in bags (to keep next to my Kleenex boxes, jars of urine, and bundled newspapers at home), fishing with dynamite, building huge fires, hunting birds, and stealing picnic baskets from day hikers. Since we were not allowed to bring a machette, we had to use gas powered weed wackers. After it ran out of gas, Wayne hucked it in the lake, and we had to use our trecking poles to hack at plants and wave at bears. Wayne wondering where a good spot to heli-lift the Ski-Doo's into this winter Anyways, up and around Thorton Peak we went, and down to below the South Face of Triumph for our original intended objective. The still unclimbed S.Buttress of Triumph It was much to steep and crackless, also soaking wet (the main line is a watercourse) so we opted for plan B. It could go, but it would require some aid and bolting, also hard climbing. We scrambled up ~500 feet of steep cliffy heather. It wasn't so bad, except for the fact that the sky was turbulent and threating a mega storm to hit any minute. The thought of downclimbing was not a happy fun one. All the peaks had big lenticulars forming, and the thick black wave-like patter of clouds above our heads shouted "hurry up and climb be-otch!" It gonna Rain! The climb started off with a few pitches up steep slab. The rock was solid, lots of good holds, and fun! Pro was scant, so there were a few moments of nervousness. I had to bust out my ice tool for an "M" move to bypass grabbing a very untrustworthy looking flake/key hold. It was solid, and the mixed/moss mantle was unnecessary. It started raining, then stopped. Hurry up! Wayne scoping the route The ridge topped out about ~1100 feet up to the final summit headwall. Wayne had a great fun steep lead. It looked scary but turned out to be a super fun 5.8 pitch. Climb Monkey, Climb! I got the last pitch, traversing some shitty gendarms and up to the summit. 20' up the exposed crumbly gendarme Wayne shouted, "It's about to let loose up there!" A wall of rain headed our way, but somehow it cut north at the last second and spared us a slippery and scary descent. We only got a few drops the whole day, but we did get in a great fun climb and an awesome mountain. Our cramponless hike out wasn't a great idea, but I'm here, so I guess we didn't need them! Heading down the Northeast Ridge just waiting for the douching We got back to the car at 7:30, having left camp at 5:45 a.m., which is funny since the 1500' route took only three hours of impending rain hurried climbing to the top! Gear Notes: Nothin bigger than 3" and no pins or tat needed. Crampons if you want. One rope. Approach Notes: Up the 3rd lake to a col next to Thorton Peak, down and around (long) to the S.Face, and up a steep moss gully to the SW ridge.

No, that was at the base of S.Early's N.side!

You brought your dog to the base of Chianti Spire? I don't know your dog, but for 99% of all other dogs, that's fucked up.

Hands off my pork

Nice Blake! That was on my "secret list" and I totally forgot about it, I'm glad you got it - you're kicking ass!!!! Awesome job.

Can PDX ex-patriots come?

Ahhhhh, the famous "Meaton" is shown in that 1st picture. mmmmmmmmmm, meaty piton.

Two red black diamond nuts, no question, hands down, the best size. That and a yellow alien will get you up anything.

I miss you Erik! Come back to the suck

I married Isis on the fifth day of May But I could not hold on to her very long So I cut off my hair and I rode straight away For the wild unknown country where I could not go wrong. I came to a high place of darkness and light The dividing line ran through the center of town I hitched up my pony to a post on the right Went in to a laundry to wash my clothes down. A man in the corner approached me for a match I knew right away he was not ordinary He said "Are you looking for something easy to catch ?" I said "I got no money". He said "That ain't necessary". We set out that night for the cold in the North I gave him my blanket he gave me his word I said "Where are we going ?" He said "We'd be back by the fourth" I said "That's the best new that I've ever heard". I was thinking about turquoise I was thinking about gold I was thinking about diamonds and the world's biggest necklace As we rode through the canyons through the devilish cold I was thinking about Isis how she thought I was so reckless. How she told me that one day we meet up again And things would be different the next time we wed If I only could hang on and just be her friend I still can't remember all the best things she said. We came to the pyramids all embedded in ice He said "There's a body I'm trying to find If I carry it out it'll bring a good prize" It was then that I knew what he had on his mind. The wind it was howling and the snow was outrageous We chopped through the night and we chopped through the dawn When he died I was hoping that it wasn't contagious But I made up my mind that I had to go on. I broke into the tomb but the casket was empty There was no jewels no nothing I felt I'd been had When I saw that my partner was just being friendly When I took up his offer I must-a been mad. I picked up his body and I dragged him inside Threw him down in the hole and I put back the cover I said a quick prayer and I felt satisfied Then I rode back to find Isis just to tell her I love her. She was there in the meadow where the creek used to rise Blinded by sleep and in need of a bed I came in from the East with the sun in my eyes I cursed her one time then I rode on ahead. She said "Where ya been ?" I said "No place special ?" She said "You look different" I said "Well I guess" She said "You been gone" I said "That's only natural" She said "You gonna stay ?" I said "If you want me to, Yeah ". Isis oh Isis you mystical child What drives me to you is what drives me insane I still can remember the way that you smiled On the fifth day of May in the drizzling rain.

I don't understand how Mr. Drummond from Different Strokes has to do with this?

Way to REPRESENT the PNW!!!

Thanks Jon, I think I'll be okay with the AM workouts. I find that I'm way less tired if I'm active. It's the activation energy that's the hardest part...since even after work and I'm blown, if I do force myself to go to the gym or run - I feel awesome and I wake up less tired. I think it's mostly mental, emotional, and food related. I should get a food allergy test and a glucose tolerance test, and also be stricter on my sleeping schedule. I'm sure this thread strikes a chord with a lot of us on here who are stuck working way too much.

You tell me

Hell yeah!

It's right above the hairpin turn, the trail is cairned to start. Takes about an hour to the pass, very easy.

Plus you just dissed half of Mark Allen's movie selections ISHTAR!

Is there a BMX bike-dance scene set to "how do you talk to an angle"? Are the cobra twins involved? Are you serious. Rad 4 Lyfe

d'oh I mean cis not sys

Wonder about good ice lines on Lemah in winter?

damn that's quick! I think it should be ok to not count time hanging out on the summit, so you're able to enjoy being up there.

I think the AM approach and the tip that you gotta 1st get used to your new schedule are right on. You can't do it all! I can skip the leg workouts, get runs in on non climbing weekends, and do some major muscle groups before work. Groovy, thanks all!

Hell yeah! I can't wait to get on those routes!!!!!!

The objectification of women on the summit of one of Gaia's, the nurturing Earth Mother, most soul-inspiring jewels, hurts my mind, hurts the body whole, and hurts my spirit. I sing the body electric.