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layton

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Everything posted by layton

  1. The peroneus longus muscle is the culprit, and it acts as a foot everter, an important prime mover in foot pronation. My guess is that you somehow threw off your normal foot biomechanics, and the muscle had to do double duty to stabilze you foot - most likely because your boots were too tight or rigid in the sole. When a muscle has to isometrically contract or eccentrically contract, it can get real sore. Loosen up your boots or find a more flexible pair.
  2. TENS devices basically trick your nerves into not signaling a pain response. They don't do a great job at actually relaxing tight muscles, nor do they FIX anything. That said, they feel awesome and I use one occasionally. Some people do not like the tingly/worms under the skin feeling, so try it out first.
  3. Hey Joe, I had no idea your press was working so hard on all these guidebooks! I can't believe you guys are coming out with a Wind Rivers guide! Can I still use the old green book in case I feel like being frustrated and hateful? Next thing you're gonna say is a new Canadian Rockies select or a guide to update the old black sierra club guides to BC/AB columbia/purcells, vahallas, etc... Way to fucking murder the impossible -
  4. You may have just overused it if there was no overt injury to it. Try wearing one of these as much as you can tolerate for a couple weeks. This particular brand is not only the most comfortable, but works awesome for wrist issues as well. Thumb Spica
  5. Best version being on the "Welcome to the Canteen" LP!
  6. I wish I had something good (well actually I do but I'm saving it in case it develops....) BUT! If you want a good story, ask Skyclimb to post a TR about the pitstop with the couple at Indian Creek and how he became known as "The Pirate Maker" Now THAT's a good story!
  7. I want ten minutes of my life back. Slick: good comment about something idiots do and shouldn't idiot: no it doesn't other idiot: environmental bullshit next idiot: health hazard propaganda complete fucking idiot: bolting comment total fucking idiot: alternative more expensive/heavier option annoying idiot: political comment biggest idiot: me reading and responding to this This thread, including my own response, is the perfect example of why this website has gone 2 shit over the past 2 years.
  8. I've only used tennis shoes except in winter for the past 15 years and they've worked just fine. Bring a change or two of socks and some strap on poons.
  9. ahhhh, you guys area still ass useful as ever
  10. I have a large (18mb) file I'd like to share. how?
  11. set yo' mother f'in mind in motion by will alone motha'f'a
  12. I've actually written 70 pages on a yet-to-be finished book on training, injuries/rehab, equipment, and tips for alpine climbing. It will be about 100 pages when I'm done I think. It's already 15 megabites, and tips or tricks on how I could upload it here when I'm done?
  13. Dang man! Glad I asked, those are sweet pics, fgw - did you use to live around here?
  14. ...with my hot girlfriend Amber
  15. I've been climbing on them exclusively for a year now and climbing in my gecko skin gloves and slippers with my fancy new cilogear pack fabric
  16. Cool! Yeah, I'm talking anything - not just towers! But towers are way cool. Anyone done Notch Peak's big ol' limestone wall (like book of saturdays)?
  17. What are your favorite desert climbs: trad, sport, towers, you name it?
  18. A wrist brace with a thumb splint built in (called a spica) should help. You can ice it, ice massage it, do some ultrasound, and yes: strip them muscles. It's a glorified sprain of your thumb and wrist from overuse
  19. sounds like De Quevain's Syndrome
  20. It's actually fine in high winds. It's the only tent I've used in 6 years except the lighthouse in the winter. If I had to buy only one tent for both, then I'd get the lighthouse. Tip on the lighthouse tent. To save weight, use your trecking poles set up in a x pattern instead of the regular poles. Have the pointy ends down and put your helmet in the center of the tent to spare the fabric. Wayne figured this trick out and it's done very well in wet weather.
  21. The owner of the ipod solar charger company may have asked an "unknown" employee of Cilogear to break his/her nose to look tough at the SLC trade show, and that employee(perhaps owner) may have followed through with said request.
  22. John, I'm going to geo-chache treasure with this great new tool!
  23. did wayne submit your stupid triumph route? I will only accept an unabridged version of the TR!
  24. I forgot the rope and didn't realize it until we were in almost in Pemberton. I even made a post-it note on top of my pack, "Don't forget rope". Worst part was who my partner was: polish bob. I can attest to the anger of one mr. polish clownpuncher bob - and it ain't pretty. I left the ice-screws on top of the car once with Marcus and we had to drive slowly down the highway to pick them all up. I've regretted my decisions to bail, but it's alway been mutual when I suggest it...except again, with Marcus when I wanted to bail cuz the route just sucked so bad. That more than makes up for my shitty climbing partners though, you goddamned pussies
  25. Hey guys. A popping or clicking shoulder can be due to several things. A non-painful click or pop is usually benign and no need to worry - just like when you roll your wrists or ankles and they click and pop. If it is a problem, it's usually due to the bone snapping over a tendon (the supraspinatus or biceps is most common and is known as "impingement") or the labrum (a like your knee's meniscus except it's in your shoulder). If it's a bad 2nd degree or 3rd degree tear or rupture, then you'll want surgery. If the labrum, surgery is an option if it's bad too. However, these structures can and do heal themselves. The thing to find out is WHY - fix the real cause of the problem. Here's a laundry list Overly tight pecs, lats, upper traps, and anterior cervical muscles with weak lower traps, rhomboids, serratus anterior, deep neck flexors. An anterior head position (bad posture) will cause an over-recuitment of the tight muscles and cause the smaller weaker stabilization muscles (your rotator cuff) to take up the slack and get overworked. This is known as upper cross-syndrome. The tight muscles and anterior head also cause this over-facilitation of the overworked muscles to pull the humerous too far up, and impinge the tendons. Over time this can also tear the labrum. The key is to re-train your scapula (shoulder blades) to maintain a retracted and depressed position during functional overhead activities (aka keep your shoulders down when you're using your arm). Stretching the tight muscles and re-training the weak ones at the same time is key. What isn't key is over-strengthening the rotator cuff (like doing external rotations and lateral raises) - they are stabilizers not prime movers. The reason people do these external rotations, etc.. is because they had surgery and the little rotator cuff muscles do need to be strengthen because they can't even perform their job at stabilization. A position of abduction and external rotation is extremely dangerous, especially at the 60-120 degree abduction angle, because that is the arm position that creates the smallest space for your tendons in your shoulder joint. That is why I do not recommend exercises such as the military press! Climbing techniques such as arm-barring while off-widthing is exactly the movement that can hurt your shoulder the most. The other reason one could hurt their shoulder in this way is a trauma (falling on an outstretched arm), extreme overuse, and climbing movements like dynoing. For specific exercises and stretches, you'll have to ask me directly. I'd recommend PT to retrain the muscles, a good massage therapist to get those trigger points and tight muscles (make sure they get your subscap through your arm-pit!), and a chiropractor to address the structural and biomechanical problems in your neck, spine, and shoulder/arm complex.
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