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layton

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Everything posted by layton

  1. Althetes often use carb loading to keep from a caloric deficit race time, but water is usually readily available...not always for climbers. One thing we do is chug as much as we can at the base or at the car. Is this enough? Just eating a bunch of gu pre-climb wouldn't fill your glycogen store (although it would help)...is the same true with water. I'm looking for concrete evidence (i.e. articles or published info) that explains how much water you need to drink and how long you need to drink it for to reach your total body's water carrying capacity? I'm expecting the answer to be just drink water until your pee is clear and copious, and continue drinking water until your climb starts.
  2. No one is gonna rob Pretzl
  3. http://www.sltrib.com/news/ci_12585160 Link Sad, but very funny
  4. MSR has a 2 person double wall tent that has come out that weights less than a firstlight
  5. Great idea for a link-up! Rolf, Dan, and I had each noticed the Acid Baby arete and all decided to do it together. We spent about 10 seconds scoping the line, it just unfolded nicely. We still weren't sure if it was the "snakes and ladders" route put up in the late 70's. One of those I don't think so but maybe they did - there's a lot of stuff in the area that fits their description.
  6. layton

    Faking injuries

    I hear ya. I've coined this phenonemon, "My Heretofor unnanounced medical condition". Usually stomach and brain malfunction as well as "lack of sleep" are usually key symptoms
  7. be sure and hit up the washer woman arch (aka Mrs Butterworth Tower) - it's really good. you can get a bivy permit and not have to deal with the full campgrounds on the white rim. Nice work, those are really fun towers. Did you do the fixed rope or the hike down for standing rock?
  8. saw it at the show, way small than the camp. Sweet for your camera, water bottle, shoes etc to use in a pinch....or for climbing with Wayne
  9. hehe I remember that block!
  10. don't look to hard at the spirals lest you be lost
  11. that route is a lot more commiting and longer that it appears! nice job on the free rolls!
  12. should'a moved to slc. Big Cottonwood, Little Cottonwood, Lone Peak, American Fork, Maple Canyon, Ibex and the West Desert, and City of Rocks 0 minutes to three hours drive. Desert Towers and splitters close. World class bouldering to 24 pitch mega routes. Zion and Vegas within weekend climbing distance. Wind Rivers and Tetons 4-5 hours drive. Black Canyon and Ouray closer than the front range. Awesome trail running and mountain biking in town. Even the gym is awesome. The 40% mormon population keeps the place from being another boulder or high priced mountain town. Liquor laws just changed so the bars are way better. And the local indie radio staion KEXP is rad. Live concerts outdoors downtown and in Park City. Oh, and the skiing ain't bad Downtown is a ghosttown however which is awesome for parking.
  13. i can imagine the cam springs pinching the pubes or snagging the sack.
  14. I've never seen a shirtless guy at the climbing gym I go too. It's almost creepy. Sometimes a high mormon influence is nice.
  15. layton

    Job in SLC

    Anyone with a chem or biology degree should concider moving to SLC if they are looking for a good job with good pay. I'm trying to import more climbing partners. My lab is hiring. PM me.
  16. i hope it comes in the same color blue as the new jetboil in october.
  17. Triassic Sands is the best RR route for a leader of that ability, and Cloud is the best for a leader of that ability. Although I have not done the Rainbow Wall free, I bet that's in the running too. I didn't think Lev 29 was all that, although it was awesome. Fiddler on the roof has gotta be the best face climb in the park!
  18. Those just highlighted my armpits and low back
  19. Can't WAIT till the blue comes out in October. I'm going to try and hold out
  20. If you can locate it, Simond makes a childrens ice tool called the "Fox". It's way lighter than anything I've seen, has an aggressive reverse curve pick and a hammer that beats in the pins pretty damn good. In summer the pick works great for cleaning cracks or glacier travel.
  21. ok what I said didn't make any sense regarding CAMP. You must be looking at a heavier model than their lightest.
  22. Why not get the lightest ones out there. CAMP makes a pair lighter than those and I'm sure it's way cheaper too. CAMP rocks. Grivel makes the a pair just as light as CAMP but costs a bit more. I've used aluminum poons in some pretty bullet ice with tennis shoes. It sucks ass but it works. Way better than duct-taping my switchblades onto my approach shoes befor the aluminum ones existed.
  23. There's a thread somewhere that discussed what got left out... anyone know where it's at? I'd like to jot those routes down in the back cover.
  24. I'm on the side that it's mostly bogus. Your body breaks down protiens into all it's consituent amino acids and build what it needs from that.
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