layton

Yeah, multiday/week climbs in AK (for the ice 9000), but I'd bring my Nepal Tops if they were alive today. They worked good in the Ruth for a month. I'd bring the Super Alpinista if I was going to AK and had the boot by then.

Overkill on the 9000's...here's the link:link

I put up a similar post regarding the Super Alpinista. They aren't available until march and I've been waiting for them to ship since november (I ordered them in august)! A friend of mine demo'd them and loved the superalpinista, said the ice 9000 were awesome to but not neccessary (too warm for most outtings).

Thanks for the info! However this info is already known and outdated since there are rumours that the camps and/or the bridge has been pulled since this summer (I was there at the last week of september attemping springbok). Still no word if the camp is there or not, I bet if one of us called we'd find out...but thats a while from now anyways so I guess it's not too pressing.

Don't think it's been repeated. I'll go if it's "in" although I've heard it hasn't come in for a while (which may be B.S.)

The Outdoor Center at WWU has a copy.

That's pretty funny, and a little creepy. I'm actually on the left in the red blurry jacket. Who be ye? Were you the dude who gave us the Ron Rico Rum?? Cory?? Scott?? Kelly?? God??

Well the rumors are false! Chicago has NO good climbing. The hot dogs are freakin' amazing (you have no idea-Deamon Dogs off the "L") and the pizza is to die for (Carmens in Evanston is the best). Didn't get my Billy Goat fix, but lower Wacker is no longer under construction. Someone will pay for misleading me about this city's climbing potential. Should'a bought that new Rockn'Road!!!! Hope all you other misplaced midwesterners out in coffeeland are climbing hard, cuz this dude ain't climbing anything but down the social ladder here in $$$'sville so I'm headin to the Canadian Rockies again where a down jacket is more hip than a black leather coat! Any other folks out there been wisked away to their hometown to realize exactly why it is that they moved in the 1st place??? Hope this TR helps anyone who does a search on Chi-town in hopes for a more successful TR, otherwise I'm just adding to the useless crap ya'll must wade thru to get ANY useful info!

Climzalot. I watched them do what was just described and was with them during most of that trip (the one in which Seth Shaw died). Anyway I may be able to help you out w/some info. Here's a line Cory and I did to keep you interested...you may notice he forgot his helmet (aka miles smart on Eldo) p.s. Chicago sucks ass, I'm going to Banff tomorrow hot dogs or not! Couldn't resist spraying.

nice going! I've heard that peak has wonderful winter potential.

You're missing out if you haven't seen Dead Alive. I think it may be the funniest movie I have ever seen. Pure creative genious. Meet the Feebles is funny in idea, but when actulized, it is pretty lame. Wanna see two quality films? Check out David Lynch's early works, "The Alphabet, and The Grandmother" And then see "Vulgar" by the guys that brought you clerks, dogman, etc... Not what you will expect!

I think it has some artistic flair!

Beauty, eh?

I'd call it (last pitch of Prof) a 5, but remember RATINGS DON'T MEAN SHIT!!! I'd hop on a 5+ w/solid ice way before I hopped on a 4 slush pilar w/no chance of solid pro -as was the case on the last pitch of Proff, and Linda Ice 9. The final pilar of Louise is only 4+ b/c there is a groove you can stem and get no-hands rests in although it looks like a 6. I wouldn't give murchison any harder than 4+ past the cave. I've seen (and climbed that pitch) in much harder conditions. The ice was solid and the steep part was short (although pro-was very very hard to get...ie don't bother). Anyway, who cares they are all awesome and hard.

Nice!

Looked slabby and marbley to me? Your right, f'dat shite. I'm game, lets go now.

Nice going Daler! Man I wish I could climb that hard!!!! I'd post a thumbs up gremlin, but I don't know what 1/2 of them mean anymore and I'd probably wind up posting a f*ck you gremlin by accident. Anyway, nice job good work and cheers!

I've been staring at that whole area in the Red Fred for a while. Maybe (although I don't want to admit it) this would be a good bolted sport route?

Don't click on these at work. This thread should last about an hour. Hmmmm, taste a little fatty to me? Does this taste fatty to you?

Here's a photo of Zero Gulley as of four weeks ago when Richard and I did it. zero gulley

Gotta little ice sack with me crampons in got a bag with dryloft and down But I'm a good climber that sometimes wanna go home I've got hypalon gaiters keepin me shoes dry got those brusitis knuckle blues climbed 13 piles of shit in the cascades to chose from etc.. etc..

Your welcome Coley. Way to get after it. Did you see my poop?

Part 1 cuz I'll be back. Trip cut short due to partners shoulder getting seriously smacked. Soloed This House of Sky...Awesome and fun after the 1st bit. Climbed Professors for the 5th time, after attempting Welcome to Canada (not in). Didn't do last pitch, too nasty. Did Linda Ice 9, fun, once again last pitch wicked shitty. I got to lead the crux on Kitty Hawk. Accoring to Gadd''s site it was a WI5+ lead! Shit, glad I didn't know that. Did murchison falls too. Longest 180m anywhere. WI5 shape. Some stuff is getting better, some stuff worse. Things to do if coming up that are in (besides what was listed): Shades of beauty Slipstream 570 Good luck n' bad dreams Echo Maddness Sorcerer (would'a been tomorrow's journey damnit!) Ice Funnel Kemosabe Coire Dubhe Integrale Whitemans and Redman Soars Louise (looks harder than it is right now) Suffer Machine And any alpine route you want...read NO SNOW. .... well there's lots more, but I can't think right now. Not much is in the Canmore area right now Wish Vertical Turtle (shane) a healthy recovery

Yup. that was Richard's (fixedpin) pound-in! We were gonna rap off a bollard, but it was pulling so we rapped off that crappy screw. The ice wasn't thick enough for a v-thread and richard had no sentimental ties to that piece of junk. Glad you had fun and didn't step in my green-apple splatter 1/2 way up the gully. I probably would'a downclimbed the whole thing if I did it again. Your description (and times) sounds the same as ours, 'cept for the hours spend untangling our ropes after the raps. Glad you had fun. I'll post a rockies report when I get a chance. What happened to my original TR?

Yeah, it was fun. Wait till spring for this one. We'll make the third time a charm. The polish route looks fun, maybe we'll give that a go if it's in. As for the area, Everything is "in" but I'd camp below whatever you're doing to pick your way across the glacier. The Coleman/Deming is fine, the snow is hard (enough) right at the glacier. Toes will hurt coming down.