layton

Three things wrong w/the NW alpinist 1.This is one of the most comfortable places on Earth to live and not climb shit. Cush Cush Cush. 2.The weather isn't helpful for getting after it in the winter. There is a lot of desire being snowed and rained on. 3.Most of our routes a fucking hell and gone...ie, not visible from the road. Yes, there are few that are thank god. I think if #2 at least were not such an issue, we'd get after it a lot more. Yeah, we had a little over a week of good weather for climbing...WOW! Colorado,California,and Alberta are laughing their asses off at our 1-2 good weeks. P-bob, thanks for stirring the pot. Happy birthday, sorry the party didn't last super late.

Avy? A V A L A N C H E ???? Prime my ass

Email Necronomicon.

We really need this new snowfall right now! But it needs to stop and get nice out.

Taken from Mt.Maude or the approach I think?

Wow! You da man mofo. You got your "2" routes in the cascades this "winter", now it's all bonus points. Long live Polish Bob

Nice job "rat"! Nice feat solo. Is there another route that stems off the route you were on? How did that look? Shoulda gone with you based on my turn of events.

Druw, aivie cunditins we're grate, butt know eye thnk thei R raaaelly badrfg becuze ovt the knew snoh. The KWELOOOR wood halve bean reel bawd. Sliveerrtip haid somoe eyce boot knot mooch. Kwait oventil sprign eye geuss.

maybe, but have you checked the weather recently?

I've decided I need to be 1 pitch up a climb to concider it an attempt. I will get up something.

Near Hope snow conditions include much unconsolidated surface hoar. Not good. Anybody been out side in the N.Cascades? Similar, or neve?

I'll spare the story. Didn't climb it. A must for those who like to approach 10 miles of feet upon feet of unconsolidated 3" crystal surface hoar and like to shovel out their truck endlessly. Wicked fun!

Thanks for a great show! Some familiar faces, but barely. How 'bout those guys who did a 9 day ski traverse with < 25lbs of pre-war gear! How the hell? Man those guys should come back and kick our soft little asses.

Sandbag for sure I'll bet! Polish Bob called me on the phone last night, said it was fun. He's a very very strong climber, and if he says it's one of the best he's done, I'll buy that. He also mentioned M4 as a grade for the mixed, but then he said there were pitches of verticle. ...but I freesoloed it the same day, and due to my elf-like abilities, I didn't make any tracks or leave any sign of passage. This route combined w/his route on Colfax would put him in one of the state's best climbers in my book. Word Bob, Coley, and Kris. Way to go!

Nice work guys, I figured you'd make it up good conditions or not! Do you think Justin and I made the right call to wait for thicker ice concidering WI5+ is my limit (i.e. Kitty Hawk near the time you did it) I'm glad my picket could help. It's hard gulping down one's ego and admitting it may be too much for you (as in my case). I'm glad to hear it was hard, cuz my self-esteem has been shot since we made out call. Now it's fine, cuz I realized that I KNOW MY LIMITS and know when to push them. Hopefully my fragile little ego has been vindicated. I assume you guys are on top of the world still, and hats off to you once again. I've only been climbing for 4 years now, so I can wait for my chance. I'm glad my picket came in handy too. Rolf,Forrest, and Daylward, does it sound similiar to your experience or do you think these hombres had exceptionally challening conditions?

Saw cars parked at Pyramid past gaper checkout time. Did you go up there Rat? Crazypolishbob, were you up there or did you go to Joffre??

It's been a bad season for me on alpine-ice routes. I've been 2nd-guessing myself on a few routes now and have bailed w/o trying. I could've done two awesome climbs this year already if I haven't been such a big pussy. Haven't TR'd them due to shame issues, being NY gully, and colonial. If the weather holds for next weekend, something will be sent damnit! I appologize to myself for being such a fuckwad. Expect good news soon from David Parker and Wayne1112 (I hope). Congrats to Colin and Forrest for Inspiration peak.

Please excuse necro, he is a mean person. Anyone have any useful info? I've seen the 12" of powder forcast, just wondering if anyone has any 1st hand info. I'll find out for myself either way.

Anyone know how N facing slopes are doing at moderate to higher elevations in the N.Cascades (4000'-9000'). Anyone been slogging since the nice weather came? Postholing? Neve? Powder? Crust on depth hoar? Pure hell? This has nothing to do with how the skiing in. I'm talking fer walking and climbing on. Sadly to say, I haven't been able to get out and know for myself. It'd be REALLY nice to know.

report back Mt Index and Mt Persis conditions if you do go!

Commitment grades don't mean much when compared to other areas. I believe remoteness is concidered. All I ever look at is the technical rating, how many pitches (and how hard they are), how long the approach and descent are). If you know that, then the commitment grade shouldn't matter. Look at other guidebooks. Polar cirus is given a V. It's right off the road and not too serious. Libery ridge gets anywhere from a grade III to a grade V. Tripple couliors get between II and IV+. I just think because of the descrepancies that it's hard for a FA team to give a good commitment grade without feeling like a chestbeater or a sandbagger.

I'll be doing recon on wed or thurs. I'll let you know.

Here the REAL photo of Yak:

On route. It's like a 40 minute approach, and Jay, my partner had serious ITB syndrome issues on the descent. Email me for descent info, cuz Swain is a moron like always. And no, it was very warm in the chimneys and on the face. Unreal weather! NEcro, if you do kill me, do it in Simon Yates style!

Well it turned out the the Chimney pitches on Epinepherine were super awesome and fun! My partner and I managed the entire route in 6 hours which surprised us. One of the best routes ever! All and all in a 12 day trip we climbed 70 pitches! , the last 7 were with Jason Martin on some newly put up route next to Orange Colonus. My favorites on the trip: Exorcist Illusion Dweller Lee Vining Left Side Mixed Epinepherine & Eagle's Dance! Fun fun fun! I wanna go back. Thanks for having the weather suck while I was gone. It was always in the 70's down there (even in Lee Vining).