layton

10 or so pitches (easily aided crux) and longest rock route in lower 48 (4,600' base to top!), and best rock in the tetons. Prob have to bivy? One day in two days in and out regardless of bivy b/c of the canoe approach and permit getting. You don't have to lead 5.11 but moving fast is a must I'd be coming from SLC. I'd love to cap my summer off with this baby. Send a PM

if you're looking for a 3rd tool, get the small version of the sumtech, or the Simond Fox Rock

ok, my question has absolutely nothing to do with skinny ropes it's: 1.) what rope of similar diameter is more durable: beal's unicore or mammut's teflon, 2.)and what's a way to tell about which rope is less likely to get the chop on an thin edge radius if the test is no longer used?

Yes, that's the one I dislodged. The block is gone now. We didn't see a #3 c4. Sue Rolf, I told him to trundle it, but he had a crazed look in his eyes and said, "Fuck em" and then cackled maniacally

thanks for the info bill! i probably should just call up Beal for the other q's, but i worry when talking to reps that all i will get in answer is "our product is the 2nd coming"

I know for a fact how awesome mammut ropes are. several partners have been using the 9.1 as their main rope for several years! I was wondering if anyone can attest to Beal's new unicore technology and if they can say for a fact that their ropes are lasting about the same amount of time as mammut's. finally, the whole edge radius thing. Beal boasts that some of their ropes pass the edge radius cut resistance thing-a-ma-jig. Sounds nice, i always worry about my rope cutting as it scrapes across the rock on rapell, falling, or jugging. But even Beal's website states that the UIAA stopped measuring this as a valid test in 2005. ....anyway, do you think other ropes are passing this extinct test, but not advirtising it? I guess the real question is - is there way to determine what rope is less prone to getting the CHOP than another, diameter aside. thank you

I do it all the time on easy routes where weight savings really speeds things up. Not worth it if the approach or climb isn't epic, however. If pitches are short, doubling it up is safe.

Hope my tips on mtnproj were helpful....notmyname

kneel on your bad hip side and keep your upper body erect as possible. push your hip forward and bend towards the ground. to get more adductor, turn your lower leg in. more of a hip flexor stretch, but still gets the inners too. sit butterfly style. keep your body erect and lean to the ground. you may need to hold your feet together, and have your forarms on your knees to keep them from rising up.

wow, that was an incredibly helpful post! thanks a bunch!!!

title says it all! much appreciated for any info.

have you tried to strengthen the abductors, and stretching the adductors for 5 x 2 min sessions? are your hip flexors also tight? stretch those too. stregnthen the gluts if the hip flexors are tight your SI joint may be outta wack as well

the 0.4 is pretty good since it has a decent range, however it's in the small enough realm where you may want a bit more flexibility. The 0.5 C4 is an invaluable size and cannot be replaced adequately with similar microcams to date. some people like the C3's because of the narrow head design. some people don't like the because they are stiff. some people like mastercams because they are well made solid and are flexible. some people don't like them because they have a smaller expansion range and can get more easily stuck some people like the new Fixe aliens because they have a pretty good range (especially the green - red), softer aluminum, and are very flexible. there aren't many complaints (the smaller blue and black may or may not be as good as the mastercam or c3) my idea of a perfect rack is 000, 00 C3's, blue and black alien, 2 green - yellow alien, one red alien, one 0.4 C4, and the rest 0.5 camalot and above. some folks like other cams than C4s, and as long as you're quick at placing gear, your cam fits where you need it, it holds a fall, etc... it really comes down to personal taste. but it's a lot of fun to flame people on the intweb, mocking their taste in cams.

;gene, your fat ass makes rigid stem friends flexibe haha - nothing but love -

NF Basecamp flop on sale $18 at Mountaingear

thanks, it does look like a nice pack but the suspension was a major drawback if it was annoying.

is the black diamond "reactive" suspenion as annoying as it looks? or am I just scared of new things?

luckily i'll be out of town for the show!!!!

what are some pieces of "tosser" gear surprised you and wound up being true champs? My Golden Eagle Thinsulate Mechanics gloves are amazing ice climbers My North Face Basecamp flip flops are approaching machines after years of use Wal-Mart "flick-lock" poles still kicking after two years of skiing and approaching REI 18 Flash Pack is my go-to leader's pack Coleman LED lantern outsurvived the expensive Black Diamond piece of crap And a special shout out goes to my Wilderness Experience canvas offwidth shirt for providing me with 16 years of desert use i'm sure there's more, but those come to mind!

just saw cedar wright post a photo of the set!

your big mistake was buying a new england ropes. I use 9.1 for alpine and 9.8 for the desert. Both are trashed after one year of extremely heavy use (2-3x per week, desert, alpine, jugging and no rope bag) Get Mammut, they last longer than all the others. I used a 8.9 with a friend two years ago, and again just a few months ago...same rope and it's his main one. I was impressed

any way I can test them?

very cool to see a forgotten classic posted in a TR. I believe Pete and Kat did this several years ago, and I didn't really believe there was a 19p 5.8 over there. Nice work

for non uber-ultra light missions I use an 8mm static line, or an 8mm twin rope (can re-lead on it). worth the extra weight for uber light missions or windy/highly knobby areas(redrocks!) I use the stiff as shit 6mm dynamic alpine pull cord that colin and mike shafer rave about. It packs, coils, pulls and carries like shit however. it does not like to get stuck, fly in the wind, or get knotted/twisted which imo are pros that outweight the cons. i'm at the point where I'd rather leave gear, extend the anchor with some cord, and bring a single 70m rope than deal with goddamned double rope raps

send me a pm if you want to climb, i'm in slc