layton

I actually own the 1L pot with the teflon technology. unfortunately it's super thick and the weight savings just don't seem worth it for anything but prolonged winter camping, and the reactor does a better job.

sorry forgot! it's the shawdowy face. could be pretty good? I might have time this summer, but hate to have this one go to waste. looooong hike in

great looking NF (at least from the top) on Tomohawk Pk in WA pass near kangaroo ridge. popped up on my screen saver just a sec ago, thought I'd share it. better be at least a failure on it this summer or you all suck

Ryan, why doesn't the collective "they" make the bottom of Titanium pots out of aluminum and the outside titanium? seems like that would be the perfect compromise between weight savings and efficiency.

amazing john!!!!!!!!! i loved our flight together and would always watch for that little yellow plane during my time in the cascades can't wait to get a copy!

i always thought it would be funny to padlock directly to the bolt. maybe when passing koreans on el cap.

to be honest, I never thought about it. I thought everyone had them face opposite for whatever reason. I always wondered in the recess of my brain while clipping bolts, why they made the part you clip the "back" of the bolt? I just figured that since I'm a shitty sport climber, there must be some reason why clipping the back of the bolt was easier. Having them face the same way lets you clip the front of the bolt, making a slightly easier clip. DUUUHHH! Seriously, 18+ years climbing and I never ever thought about that. Just figured I wasn't good enough to know the secret. Not surprising since it took me a full year to realize my truck had cup holders.

how many posts till we stop beating around the bush and start on what we're reeeeeeeealy talking about

ditto. I'd like to hear the argument from the same siders

here's an inane waste of time... how do you orient the biners on your quickdraws? Opposite facing or same?

is conflate a word? if so, i like it

this thread kinda exceeds my skimming ability, anyone care to sum it up?

What a retard. Hey I'm the one in a million affected, let me fuck it up for everyone. Hope that little brat is severely allergic to butterflies.

wetslide's glove looks pretty pimp

yeah, that's what I was thinking about. too hard to find on the interwebs. i'll just keep my eyes peeled. maybe it was the superfly, not the dragonfly. whatever it was called it was red and the shit.

there is an amazing line just before sloan on the approach. Marcus and I dubbed it "low hanging fruit". I was in terrible climbing shape on my last attempt. Marcus gave it a go, but backed off (i think he said b/c the ice was too shitty, but I bet it was b/c I was a mess).

as far as i know, no one has done an interesting winter line on it, besides you and your partner of course. many have oogled, and or tried it. I tried three times, once in very shitty snow conditions and it took way to long to just get to it, once with a horrendous head cold and 1 foot of new snow, and once immediately following an extremely traumatic break-up with a week straight of sleeping and drinking. I'd love to see you line. There exist some VERY hard and very long FA potential. IMO it could be the "trophy wall" of the cascades. p.s. BE CAREFUL ON THE APPROACH. The entrance slope to the NW and W face is extremely avy prone. I would suggest a bivy at the base. I wouldn't be surprised if one of the longer, harder lines would require a bivy en route.

wayne scooped it from me and was re-payed by finding out it was already climbed.

problem with running shoes is they are high volume, generally. I've used my vibram 5 fingers. they would be perfect, except they grip like shit. I've used them in the black canyon a few times, and was slightly sketched motoring down the gullies or climbing the "3rd class". I actually talked to a vibram rep and said they should make an approach version. He said they were plenty sticky. I said he was wrong. Then the conversation ended. i'll just keep my eye out next time I'm at the dollar store or wally world.no tab in back can be solved by tying the laces. otherwise, if I'm feeling spendy, I'll check out the Merrell Barefoot shoes and resole them with sticky dot. Anyone out there miss the Dragonfly approach shoe?

if you get the cannon s95, get a hard case. it's an amazing little camera, but I've trashed it in the desert twice. also get the warranty (but not from best buy ... they are motherfuckers)

I caved in under pressure and took Britne up Olive Oil. To make it fair though, I did it in one pitch "britne, do you mind simuling a little bit" "ok, but just a little"

good ideas so far. i can pd the merrels to keep the price down, but there gotta be "the one" out there, like the eagle glove for ice climbing

it would be nice to have or make a pair of really light low volume sticky rubber approach shoes. ideas? I can get a pair resoled with 5.10 sticky dot rubber for $45. Any ideas for a light, low volume shoe I could resole? There are a lot of routes out there that you need a shoe, but the hike off is fairly mellow (black canyon & red-rocks come to mind) but flip flops are a bit too chincy. I was thinking those new merrel "barefoot" shoes, but they are kinda pricey. Any out of the box ideas? Karate slipper? Aquasock? Ankle support, cushioning are not important. Sticky sole, protection from cutting up the foot, weight, low volume, and a resolable bottom are the only requirements.

my wife needs some boots and she gets cold. thanks for the input, i thought those would be the best bet. she doesn't (and probably will never) lead ice, so warmth and comfort trump weight and precision. any other suggestions? the degree seem too clunk for anything but glacier slogging to me.

super bored at work, here's the experiment i figured that would recreate how these area actually used. Start with a sluryy of ice and water, straining the ice off. This should make the water 32 degrees. since the jetboil is only .8 oz, get out a timer and digital thermometer (since it's hard to say when something is truly boiling). Pick a temperature just below boiling (remember boiling point is lower the higher you are - maybe test on a stove top pan of boiling water first). Record the time it takes .8L to come to an almost boil (say 200 degrees). Immediately turn the stove off and let it cool to room temp, and let the canister warm to room temp. Repeat with a new slurry. Repeat until you are out of gas. I'd use a small MSR gas canister for each since a.)it will take less time b.)the fuel mixture is blended for 4 season use due to its fuel blend. How many liters boiled will let you know which stove would be better for fuel savings over time when compared to the weight of the stove/pot combo(a chart showing weight of stove, weight of canisters, and liter boiled should show at what point it becomes more efficient to carry a heavier stove, assuming the heavier stove is more efficient). It would be a shame to not have the same data with the Soto stove, windscreen, and a 0.8L titanium pot, which is supposed to be a very efficient mirco canister stove (a' la pocket-rocket). Finally, for the "A+" grade, repeat the experiment by sticking everything in the freezer each time and putting a huge fan in the way.