layton

this is for the engineers and physicists Does putting a shitty piece in that will probably blow actually "slow you down" and exert less force on the next piece? Insignificant, a few kN, or a lot? Same thing goes for, say, an unequalized anchor - like a horizontal clove hitched anchor. If piece one fails at, let's just say 5kN, and piece two and three are equally shitty, will your anchor rip? The theory I heard from someone today is that there's no time for the rope to relax - but if the climber is a 10 kN force of accelerating mass, and the first piece can hold 5kN, wouldn't (rope stretch or not) the force be reduced to 5kN (10kN-5kN) I've always assumed this, and I hope my assumption was right, but if I'm wrong, I'd sure like to know.

2 adjustable daisies = awesomeness

solo clean aiding a splitter can also do double duty at teaching you how to rope solo which is necc for short fixing practice like dru said - lead and jug/clean find a rafter and tie a bunch of slings to it to practice jugging a traversing pitch and cleaning get you can practice following a short and long pendulum by tieing off any solid object - even on the groud. but nothing puts it all together like doing a multipitch wall. if there aren't good options, go do a classic several pitch slipper in the rain

agree with the low angle - jumars suck ivan, on cleaning traverses you stand on the lower jumar aiders, move the upper aider around the piece, and do a lower-out on the lower ascender by slighly disenganging the cam. When in line with the piece, move the lower ascender aroud it. with a gri-gri you have to dismantle it a bit more. re-aiding can be quick, but so can the set-up mentioned above

funny, we've got totally opposite responses some say #1 is more tiring, some say #2 is more tiring. any of you guys that disagree have a counter argument?

anyone used the new petzl microtraxion in place of the gri-gri or croll as in option #2 (or what dru described)? does it slide on it's own?

what do you guys like to use for ascending a fixed line and why 1.Two jumars and staggered aiders with daisy chains or 2.Top jumar with aiders and daisy, gri gri/traxion on belay loop with optional re-direct very low angle med angle steep/overhang more tiring less tiring faster slower

where's the kid in the flying wheelchair?

Fly fishing is the tele skiing of fishing.... goddamn show-offs

and if only they could be more like rich educated white people AMERICA! FUCK YEAH! COMIN' TO SAVE THE MOTHERFUCKING DAY YEAH!

we should definitely learn to live with intolerant fundamentalist religious zealouts

that was a really good write up - you guys are badass!!!

my book wasn't supposed to be a training book - just wanted a consolidated chapter about training in it - but that's why people seem to buy it. The 2nd ed. will be a lot different

actually, laying on the ground and pitching the tarp low keeps 90% of the bugs out and the rest up high. earplugs and a bandana in heavy bug conditions. my betalight has a bug net/bathtub floor option - total weight 3 lbs and roomy as hell

word on that sol bivy. good for a wall overnight. still haven't found a bivy tent better than the betalight. anyone?

i'm so confused

or just fall into thin ice!

get off your damn high horses phones are handy just like every other fucking piece of technology you use. create some fire, forge some knives, cut up some deer skins, and climb with vines and rocks for chocks.

i threw up red wine on the trailhead, scared a small child on the approach, and watched a dog get gutted by a goat when I did the boving rt. with Eric Wolfe.

awesome! that topo burning photos is one of the classic cc.com pics!

you'll feel right at home in leavenworth

love your body john - pm sent

Wow, google play's description of this movie sounds like a perfect climbing film for you guys Beyond Gravity Synopsis A typical frat rat has a secret lurking in his closet in this gay-themed drama. John "Griff" Griffith (Daniel Chilson) is a student at a college in Southern California, where he lives with his friends in a fraternity house. Griff's frat brothers and his best friend Todd (Niklaus Lange) don't know that he has been having an affair with Pete Bradley (Don Handfield), another member of the frat who lives in an off-campus apartment. While Griff acts "straight" and talks about women with his beer-drinking frat brothers, his involvement with Pete has been going on for some time. Pete has accepted his homosexuality and is tentatively inching out of the closet; he wants to have a real relationship with Griff, based on more than furtive sex, but Griff is unwilling to acknowledge that he is gay. Pete asks Griff to meet him at a gay coffeehouse; their conversation turns into an argument, and Pete storms off in a huff. The next day, Griff learns that Pete is in the hospital; while walking home, he was attacked by gay-bashing yahoos and is now in a coma. Griff must now resolve his confused sexual identity, as well as his feelings for Pete. Defying Gravity was the debut feature for writer/director John Keitel. Cast & Credits ACTORS Lynn Hill, Abby Watkins, Rich Prohanska, Nancy Feagin, Sean Isaac, Jia Condon, Peter Croft DIRECTOR Sean White, Aaron Black, Aaron Jackson

anyone got a copy of the 2009 AAJ laying around? I'd like to buy it off ya. -Mike

I don't know layton, but I just liked your CLIMBING facebook page. Cool page. Gracias!