layton

+100

best thread EVAR!!!! wonder how many trips I've ruined? Probably quite a few

sucks if you had to guide in provo canyon today like me

and smooth

after seeing a billion jackets, shoes, bags, water bottles, etc I began to envy communist countries and stop caring about the "latest technology" Some cool stuff: X4 camaolts, new Petzl Ice Screws (seemed great), Spirit Biners, and en route ice screw sharpener. I'm sure folks like Dane who are into boots and fabric technology had a blast. I'm gonna design a line of clothes made from burlap sacks, garbage bags, and cast iron.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/872171/TR_Seton_Lake_FA_Piss_n_Vinega#Post872171 and angles tears in yosemite which just get sent

Exactly. A quilt you can at least wrap up in

no down on the bottom is not useless unless your pad is really thick. no insulation on the bottom bags suck ballz

hopefully english isn't your 1st language, if so, I apologize for sounding harsh. If not...i don't even know where to begin. good luck on your biving.

well done and well written. one of the most honest and non-chest thumping TR's I've ever read. I totally empathize with Criag's comment on quitting ice, fear of success is common when doing the hard grades - this tr makes me want to go rockclimbing.

You have to bivy en route for search and rescue? If you're in charge of finding and helping people stranded in the mountains then i have three questions: 1.)why are you bivying on route? 2.)why don't you already know what to bring? 3.)do you also plan on getting rescued? nothing about your questions or intended use makes any sense. I applaud your noble intentions for helping others, but I sure hope I don't need SAR where you work.

i think for anyone to help you out here, you gotta lay out what it is you are planning on doing. i don't even know where to begin with this post, there's a lot of false assumptions, misunderstanding of the information, and incorrect information. A synthetic bag over a down bag will slow down your inner bag from getting wet but the point of adding another bag would be for increased warmth with a bonus of adding weather resistance, not to keep you dry. If you're concerned about water from the outside, a bivy sack is better, but by no means the lightest option or is it total shelter. my advice based off the info provided (it sounds like you are doing an open bivy in the snow or rain on a route by yourself) - wait for a better forcast and try not to bivy on the route. Bring a tent for the base.

John, did you gas up here? http://www.terribleherbst.com/

I'm writing the 2nd ed. but it's taking forever as I started from scratch...blank page #1 to about page 200 as I write. Should I add a humorous epic chapter, or would most people find that arrogant and self-serving?

I get to post 7 1. Impaling my leg on a ledge fall in the Black Canyon and having to climb out while bleeding heavily into my shoes and avoiding the leaky poop bag hit the leg vagina. 2. 80' 5.10 off route run-out with no gear and subsequent hyperventilating on the down climb back to ledge with the world's shittiest anchor in the Black Canyon (different trip) 3. Trip ending food poisoning in Yosemite and Sedona (separate trips) 4. Rockfall to my jaw and good shoulder in Blodgett canyon by two newbie climbers ending my trip and climbing for a few weeks 5. Separated rib when foothold broke and I caught my fall in Zion 6. Low back sprain on the nose (from a horrid bivy) resulting in 2nd bailure 7. results of 1-6: shitty lead head resulting in giving up leads or bailing on several routes I now gotta go back for

my wife got a camelbak chill water bottle from her sister for xmass and I used it ice climbing and it worked fine with hot cocoa. You can lock the valve, but no promises on the lid popping off. I'd stomp on it, but i've ruined enough of my wife's things already. It is soft and insulated. i bet those platypus wine containers would work great if you made a sleeve for them

I like the "mondo 2000 ice dominator limited edition extreme 2.0"

SRV all the way. I saw his last show with clapton when he died

just got back from a tower run in Sedona with Sky in which he got food poisoning so bad he's been hurling for days

*The Grand Traverse with my realtor Mike Morris *Shunes Buttress in Zion (twice!) with Sky Sjue and JP Rhode *Black Elk with Brian Schmitz *Astrodog in the Black Canyon with Sky Sjue *Atlantis in the Black Canyon with Johh Thompson *gym training-less ascents

Belay specs and a Reel Rock 7 DVD....threw up using them together

capt caveman lives in my facebook friend list and occasionally likes certain posts

no wear so far

agreed, hands down the best cam i've ever used: as good range as the C4 and just as light, don't walk, fits flares and offsets, 1/3 the head width of C4s with just as thick lobes, super flexible, multiple clipping options, feel burly, and the strange head shape just seems to offer more security. bomber! it took a bit actually using them, but after a few days i found myself always reaching for a totem in desperate times ... and actually feeling good about every placement i've made with them, even on hard aid in the Fisher towers, fucked up Little Cottonwood cocksuckery, and even more fucked up big cottonwood quartzite cracks (kinda like weird smith cracks). My offset mastercams and C3s are starting to gather dust. only complains are the are a bit bulky on the rack, the yellow and blue should be colored differently (red or orange for the yellow and yellow for the blue). also they don't make enough sizes!

come to think of it, i needed to tweal my petzl poons (hammer to sabertooths worked fine) and the sidelock was what worked best for me. I have medium (size 10 mens) feet, so i guess that doesn't help you much as what worked for me may be different for you.