layton

mountainproject works good enough

the metolius website offers the best method for tape gloves, way better than the Freedom of the Hills version b/c you don't wind up with tape on your palm. Metolius tape costs about as much as anything, and it's the best. Besides that, find something cheap online. don't use tict of benzione. it takes forever to come off and will stain your hands. Instead use "Pre-Tape" spray my Mueller. You can get it in an aersol bottle or a liquid pump (epic mess if it spills). shaving the hands/wrist is a good idea, but I just rip it off at the end of the day. technique is better than tape, but it takes time to get good and it takes time to toughen up your hands. Even if I did or didn't have good technqiue, I'd still tape since a ruined hand will ruin the climb and your trip, plus if you have any sort of professional life, you won't want your hands to look like you have leaporsy. If your job invovles wearing surgical gloves then definately tape! The Occun gloves are hands down the best "hand jammies" out there. I don't use them b/c I like to have more feeling and the harder the crack generally means the thinner the tape job. I only use 1 layer of tape with minimal overlap and one roll now lasts me a couple days in the desert.

Hey dumbass: go back and reread the post. The Swiss Federal Institute of Sports Magglingen (not me) said he was out of shape... which turns out was correct. He worked with them for over a year and was able to shave over an hour off his previous best time on the Eiger. 3 hours 54 minutes in 2007 to 2 hours 47 minutes in 2008. John, you know I don't actually fully read anything.

and according to Mr Frieh, Steck is out of shape. wish i was that out of shape

thanks pete, i'll probably just pick up a copy of the new select in squamptom when i'm there, but i'll be sure to tear angels crest and squamish buttress out just in case i feel the desire to ever want to do those routes again

my squamish guide is from 1999 and I haven't been back in a loooong time (how sad). It looks like I'll miss the publication of the new guide for my trip this july/aug. Is the select guide worth the $ over the 1999 guide, or should I just use my old tattered book.

dru, fa's are out of fashion here (nice job!)

i'd never guess how popular that route would become. One of my favorites too! Hope you got the money a'cheval pitch.

i just glanced at the websites given specs. I don't own any so I can't say for sure. Anyway, arguing about cams on the internet is a retarded waste of time. What some people love, others hate.

I got the Exum guide for mountaineering type routes with rock involved and really like them. I've tried the camp 4 and although they were excellent, the stiff heel cup really hurt my ankles. Gene has a point - stiff high tops remove more proprioceptive input allowing you a greater chance to roll your ankle - altough they offset that by providing protection. The question is: do the offset it more or less? I much prefer a minimalist shoe and I pay greater attention to my gait and my feet are much happier at the end of the day.

Helium friends are almost identical to the new C4s except they are a wee bit heavier, and a slightly smaller expansion range resulting in needing one more cam for a full set comparable to a BD .5-6 and have dyneema vs nylon slings. C4s stand out as just a bit better, but fill a size gap for very specific places like Indian Creek (and you can fill that void with metolius cams which are better in sandstone anyways).

I like the BD C4s better because of the ergonomics of the thumb loop and the ability to clip short for aiding. I like the nylon sling better because it is more durable and it has a bit of dynamic stretch to it. I don't want to deal with the extendable sling on hard climbing and would rather clip a sling or quick draw. On alpine, I can see the advantage of an extendable sling - but if the climbing is easy, I don't mind the extra weight and if it's hard, again I'd rather clip a sling in quickly than deal with extending one on the cam. It also generates less rack clutter. Cam deformation on C4s is a complete non-issue. That said, Dragon cams are nice units and I wouldn't turn down a free one.

+1

oh that! sorry, I started to talk about a shoes that I couldn't remember the name of I use in snow...it's like a high top camp four. I went to search what it was called (couldn't find it) and lost my place.

I wasn't joking and I don't think I mentioned anything about snow, although I've used them in the Tetons, Winds, Rockies, and Wasatch with many glissades and many aid walls. I emptied two tubes of seam grip all over them, maybe that helped. Water kills approach shoes. My wife's pair is holding up great with no resoles and them same purchase date and she wears them around town (much to my complaints). Wayne wallace uses the 5.10 insights extensively in snow. I'm always amazed at how new his look (he also seam gripped the shit out of them). Just wanted to report that since I tend to totally destroy shoes, I'm very pleased with the guide tennie.

I'm sure the Gandas are amazing if you plan on using your shoes for double duty and I'd love a pair. But they are too pricey for me at the moment. The Cruzer fits snug. I measure a 9.5, but I always but size 10 to save my toenails. The cruzer fits, but not much lace left over! I think they are meant be be snug since they are incredibly soft. They will probably stretch. I can't say anything about the durability, but I'm assuming they won't last as long as a heavier shoe...probably as long as a normal approach shoes. The rubber is not as sticky as 5.10 sticky dot.

I usually go through a pair of approach shoes about ever six months. That's been the main down-side - that and weight and bulk. I can happily say that my 5.10 guide tennies have survived two years and are on their 3rd re-sole (ability to re-sole is a major plus). They are also the stickiest shoe I've ever used. They are also the lightest long approach shoe - especially with the new canvas redesign (lets see if that holds up). 5.10's other line of shoes (Camp 4 and Insight) are equally nice, but they don't fit my foot. The Guide is a great snow boot. I have also been trying to find an ultra light approach shoe that has minimal bulk for climbing with on the harness and slipping on quickly on belays. My feet hurt like crazy on climbs, so I always keep my eyes open for light, chincy slippers (like karate slippers). I've experimented with Vibram 5-finger shoes which are amazingly light and low bulk, but they slip like crazy on approach scrambling. I have climbed up to 5.7 in them on approaches in the black canyon, but I was sketched big time. I was even considering re-soling on of the newer "barefoot" shoes with 5.10 sticky rubber...until I found the Evolv Cruz! The Cruz isn't as light as a pair of 5-fingers, but it is really really light. And goddamn is it comfy. The heel is floppy and the shoes are designed to be worn in slipper mode. Finally finally finally a company has made a hyper-light low volume approach shoe. There hasn't been one since the "Dragonfly".

It's one of the best towers and one of the easiest. I've taken a newb wicked scared up heights up it (no not you Dr Denninghoff). The 5.11 section is short and is just a bunch of closely spaced bolts/pins you can just yard up, however it is just about the easiest 5.11a pitch in the universe so try and free it. The 2nd pitch is a very fun and safe 5.7 crack inside a chimney. Then another easily pull-able 5.10+ 2 moves to the "diving board". From there, the follower would be on top rope to summit. The route takes no time at all with a short approach right off the road. But it is sickeningly popular, even more so after the citibank commercial

two words: renters insurance. climbers are foolish not to have it unless they are homeowners, then they are covered.

cheetos

on snow i'd bring a yellow/grey hardman pad and a neoair xlight they hardman pad is a good back-up and is nice to kick around camp and for sitting on

the green klymit is pretty light and comfy, neoair lightest/warmest but loudest and most popable. go with the z-light sol and your backpack. can't pop it, works good enough, very light

petzl microcender

i think that photo was a joke senor Joseph

Nice! Thanks for the PNW porn...almost forgot what snow looks like