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Everything posted by AlpineK
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first ascent [TR] Mt. Triumph - FA SW Ridge - Layton/Wallace
AlpineK replied to layton's topic in North Cascades
Yeah, nice route. -
Trip: North Cascades - Vesper and the bachelor Date: 9/1/2007 Trip Report: A good friend of mine is going to get married in a couple weeks, and he wanted to do a couple day backpack trip into a nice area where folks could drink beer ( and other stuff ) and some of the group could go climbing. There was a total of between 20 and 30 people on this trip and about 4 poodles. Keep in mind this was mostly a party, but we did make an attempt to do a climb while we were there. Of the large group there were 4 real climbers and a number of folks doing some scrambling in the area. 1 mailman and 2 tree guys one of whom is the bachelor Dave the dogs and the bbq The scramble to the north side went pretty smoothly and we got some nice views. The north side of Vesper Since after my mishap last year I've been trying to take it easy, and so I went up there figuring I'd be following and not leading. 2 of our group had been here before, so I left the route finding to them. As it turns out we got on the face a little too early and what was suppose to be a 5.5 turned rapidly into a 5.5d A little higher on the route our only way up got significantly harder than 5.5d and we decided that we were up there to party and not do a rad FA. To add to that we found a number of rap anchors where others had bailed off that route. We rapped back to the glacier and hiked back to the notch and then down to the party. A small sample of the fun. Don't get to worked up about the mess. We packed out everything we packed in. Under normal conditions I wouldn't recommend using these tactics to climb, but given that our friend is soon to be married it seemed just fine to me and a much better way to celebrate than going to the strip club. Gear Notes: Standard rock gear. Crampons are nice too. Approach Notes: The trail in is an above average hike. The glacier on the north side is pretty broken up and there is a difficult moat to cross.
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I'd just add that as a teen and part of a Mounties group headed to the west ridge of Prusik we started up the Snow Creek trail. Just after crossing the Icicle we ran into a family that had started the hike 20 min earlier with their dog. The father and mother were crying asking where the tunnel went and the kids were in tears. The leader of our group didn't want to tell them what most likely happened, so he told them to talk to the Leavenworth water district.
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I was really into the old Genesis with Peter Gabriel as the lead singer. Phil was marginally ok through Abakab but after that.
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When I was in grade school we used to play smear the queer. I guess those kids that can't play tag will have to take that up as a new activity.
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Back awhile ago I had a grand total of 1 Dogfish Head 120 Minute IPA. It was pretty good, but at 20% alcohol by volume it's hard to be inspired to drink a six pack....not that you couldn't but.....
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Any beer is a good beer. Trust me on this one.
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I have 2 stories, but I don't feel at all comfortable with sharing them on a public bb.
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human powered approaches vs heli, planes, skidoos
AlpineK replied to dirtbagathlete's topic in Climber's Board
All I know is next spring I'm driving to Pemberton and getting on a helicopter. I promise to keep my 2 way use to under 4 hours and spend the rest of the week on skis. I'm sure I'll post a TR since none of you have convinced me otherwise. -
So is your summer going going out with a bang?
AlpineK replied to Peter_Puget's topic in Climber's Board
When you say Vesper, do you mean you are going to sleep on top? That would be cool. There is plenty of room. Probably not on top, but I don't set the agenda. -
So is your summer going going out with a bang?
AlpineK replied to Peter_Puget's topic in Climber's Board
I'm going to Vesper peak for a bachelor party. -
human powered approaches vs heli, planes, skidoos
AlpineK replied to dirtbagathlete's topic in Climber's Board
Here's a link from Science Friday In short there are fuel sources that might be better than the current selection available at the pump, but there are major problems with feed corn based fuels that are the main product available at the biodiesel station. -
human powered approaches vs heli, planes, skidoos
AlpineK replied to dirtbagathlete's topic in Climber's Board
I can't post a link right this second, but there was a long discussion on NPR Science Friday back about a month ago that seriously calls into question whether or not biodiesel really works to reduce climate change effects. The interview was done with a reputable scientist not a lobbyist for a fuel supplier. -
human powered approaches vs heli, planes, skidoos
AlpineK replied to dirtbagathlete's topic in Climber's Board
I'm not defending individual actions. On the other hand I have used helicopters multiple times to save a 2 day approach brushwack and therefore a 2 day exit from a region where I went climbing/skiing. I did share the heli flight with my partners instead of demanding individual flights. -
human powered approaches vs heli, planes, skidoos
AlpineK replied to dirtbagathlete's topic in Climber's Board
Try looking in the photo gallery. You'll see I posted pictures of the Wishbone Arete that I did long before any time on the net. We did use cars to drive to the parking lot. I also made 2 other attempts on Robson also using cars to the parking lot at the base. As for Mailbox you obviously know nothing of me that has been posted multiple times by many others that I know in real life. -
[TR] Mt. Waddington - Bravo Glacier 7/28/1960
AlpineK replied to AlpineK's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Thanks jefffski for posting those links. My father and his party did everything they could on the site to figure out what happened to the 4 Canadians and they filed reports with the RCMP on their return to Vancouver Island. In those days radios were rare, so they did everything that they could. It's a sad part of the story, but those 4 are best memorialized by the people who knew them best. -
human powered approaches vs heli, planes, skidoos
AlpineK replied to dirtbagathlete's topic in Climber's Board
I see a lot of bullshit posted by justpanecrazy and dirtbagathlete. If you want to push your agenda it would be a lot better if you would quit your yammering and post some trip reports of all the rad stuff you've done without helicopters. I've done a number of trips where we used 1 heli flight to save two days of approach. I've even road the lifts at Whistler 3 times to save the majority of a day's approach on trips that were done under our own power for up to 6 days after the lift ride. Basically post some TRs under your current user names or tell us your normal user name with links to all the rad human powered trips you've done and then maybe we can talk. On a side note what's with your user name, "justplanecrazy," are you crazy about planes or are you too stupid to use a dictionary when you meant to type the word plain -
Whichever issue is out right now.
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human powered approaches vs heli, planes, skidoos
AlpineK replied to dirtbagathlete's topic in Climber's Board
I'm planning a week long ski traverse using a helicopter this next spring so fuck you very much. If anything I figure minimizing your regular use of a vehicle does a lot more to reduce your impact on the environment than cutting out 10 or 20 climbing/skiing trips a year. In fact burning fuel for those uses will increase your understanding of all the great things in nature and deserve to be protected. -
I figure if you were the cop you might get the indication that the dude in the next stall might have supplied cause to be investigate, but to charge him I think you'd have to wait till Craig came up to you outside the stall and actually put the moves on you to your face.
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Ok so for starters my info is from the early 90s. We came down by Crossover peak and it was a pretty hairball descent. We had ice axes but only wimpy hiking shoes. The descent was on hard snow that you could barely kick into with the shoes we had. We made it down, but there was a lot of stress involved. You have to traverse past a couple big chunks of stone with nasty fall potential.
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I've had this card sitting around for a few years. I figured I should share it. Keep in mind that you'll have to call directory assistance since I don't believe the number works any more.
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Sunday I got a lot of stuff done. I ran stairs then Porter helped me put a new power supply in my computer. After that I went to dinner with my parents and borrowed a bunch of pictures, some of which you can see in the BC forum. I was up till 1AM getting my dad's story to pdf format and posted on CC. Porter and cj were a ton of help on that.
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That looks like a cool spot. Skiing in the winter