rbw1966

Ever run the Hood to Coast? You get to see them change OUT of those tights and INTO shorts. Oh yeah baby, god bless the red white AND blue. Iain, what kind of climber doesn't incorporate beer consumption into his training regimen? Don't make us pin you down, pour it down your throat, pants you and toss you in the girls bathroom. Pub Club at Lucky Lab?

Laugh all you want but thats a pretty sound strategy for the West Buttress. Its so heavily trafficked that people heading for KIA are extremely motivated to offload food and fuel. Take enough to make it to 14K and you will literally be turning away food. I was skeptical when told this myself so carried some food and fuel to the 14K camp but in retrospect I'd go light and fast and scavenge from there.

Count me in if its after next wednesday.

You rappell off one rope and beg the people behind you to drop it.

More driving then climbing.

That pitch coming out of the cave on Monkey Space is flat out terrifying. We only had one rope so not much choice but thrutch our way out.

Try Monkey Space next time for a challenge. Perhaps they replaced that manky spinner just before the cave.

The wind is usually raging over that pass. How did you like following that bolt ladder?

werd! great news

I agree your analogy may be more a propos although I rarely use a one-piece anchor for rappel. Even so I can't think of a single time I have ever seen anyone bounce test an anchor. Good point about the factor 2 falls though--ouch. The only piece I have ever had pop was a hook though so maybe I've been lucky. And yeah, I am a gaper all right.

This is news?

I've heard arguments back and forth about bounce-testing. I saw a video of some ladies climbing a wall in Zion (Steph Davis?) and she was bounce testing those pieces so hard I cringed. I bet those babies were welded in place--I felt sorry for the second. My thoughts are that you never bounce test gear on a free-climb lead so why on Aid? I'll give it a sturdy couple of tugs but don't bounce the shit out of it unless I am getting ready to do a few hook moves or place some marginal pro higher. If it holds my weight chances are it will hold my fall. I've GENTLY bounced on hooks though to see how secure they are--with my head turned and my hand over it. Thats some scarey shiite.

I love this holiday. I am Irish (like the Irish need an excuse to get drunk?) and this day in 1988 I was discharged from the Army after 4 years of indentured servitude. God I am getting old.

Likewise.

Don't forget the Kuwaiti Baby-pulled-from-incubator story. Millions believed that story and probably still do, in spite of the (limited) amount of press debunking it.

Who's bein played foo Obviously I was for even responding.

Played out like last years Top 40.

Omar Sharif in "Lawrence of Afghanistan."

Locking rail riders with no locks huh? Sounds like a sweet deal.

You'd be hard pressed to convince me that Mt. Washington is worthy of any significance save for its absolute chossiness. There may be a couple solid pitches on it but hardly worth the slag you climb getting to them. But then, Wayne, you groove on that pucker factor don't ya?

Climb Max in Portland has many new copies of Oregon High. Nick Dodge's guide is pretty cool too--if you can find it. I've got my sites set on a few of those climbs this spring/summer. Anyone want to climb some choss with me? Ropes optional.

Conditions are so variable up there which may help explain the difference in responses you are receiving. For instance, when I was there I cached my skis at the base of Motorcycle Hill (I'm a notoriously bad skier). I was using Invernos and Silvretta bindings. My partner skied to 14k on his t2's. We had a bitch of atime getting up Squirrel Hill because of his insistance on not taking off his skis but he had a much more pleasant time coming down then I did. Take one pair of boots. Yeah, you're pulling a sled so you can take anything but you will be CURSING that fucker before your trip is through. Make it easy on yourself and settle on one pair. The ski will be pretty miserable regardless of what you decide so suck it up. Bring your favorite genera of cannabis and your troubles will soon fade away.

Does anybody have the Bibler winter bivy? I am curious how you like it if you do have one. I have one but haven't had the opportunity to use it yet. I'll post a review after a trip next week.

They do. At least when I went through EMT training they encouraged us to try to have a hand on the patient at all times. Just be careful where you place that hand.