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Everything posted by rbw1966
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I promised the old lady I'd spend saturday with her so I can't make it to the tasting. If you wanna hook up Sunday we can do so. I was gonna try for Meadows if the weather is decent or work on that damn paper. Call me.
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How long will it last? I have a committment that afternoon.
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Crazy story! Wow! I felt my pulse racing just reading it. I almost took a digger when my crampon point caught a doubled draw hanging off the back of my harness. As someone earlier mentioned, its a pretty strange--and alarming--sensation to not be able to extend your leg back out. I no longer carry long draws on my harness when wearing crampons. Thanks for sharing that Forrest.
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On top of what Know Fear has suggested, I might add the Bugaboos, the Winds, Wallowas, and in winter don't discount the idea of Montana for some ice. I drove from Portland to Bozeman on a 4-day weekend and got 3 full days of climbing in at Hyalite. Sometimes its frustrating being in Oregon because we are so close, yet so far, from some spectacular areas. City of Rocks is not that far away either. I've made it to Washington Pass in 9 hours and been able to knock off several routes in a weekend. Hope this helps.
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Your level of tolerance goes down? Dunno. All I know is Idahojoe posted a request for info on Cooper Spur at 7:09 in the Yocum Ridge thread, created a new topic at 7:10 requesting the same thing, then created yet another new topic asking the same thing at 9:11. Triple posting is clogging the board with useless stuff (much like this post). Maybe a little patience was in order. I'm sorry if I offended anyone, including Joe. I do wish him the best and maybe I'll seem him out there.
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Anyone (s)he wanted.
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You don't find the adhesive irritates your skin? Maybe I am just hyper-sensitive to it.
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I gotta admire your persistence on Leutholds.
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I have a set of the metolius and doubled on larger sizes with forged friends.
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I've got a western mountaineering bag that I love. Its the Bison DL rated way warm for this environment with the gore dryloft shell. Been fabulous. Expensive but worth it and you can get a discount if you and a buddy guy at the same time.
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I was responding to your triple posting and in one case posting off topic in the wrong thread. Sorry if I got your panties in a wad dickhead. I welcome out of state climbers here all the time, as a matter of fact they sometimes crash at my place and vice-versa. Good luck and best wishes.
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Look at the weather reports, read the avy reports, form your own opinion. If you can't manage that you probably owe it to yourself and SAR to stay off the mountain.
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Way to go! So if I understand your report correctly you did the traverse around the gendarmes rather than going up them correct? Nice feather in your cap. Did you actually place those stoppers?
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Was the sledder part of your group? Were you in that blue VW van? If so we were the guys right next to you in the green 4runner and tele gear--I was wearing the baseball cap. It was a fabulous day indeed. Beautiful conditions. My partner crapped out 3/4 up so we relaxed a bit before skiing down. The upper slopes had a gnarly crust I kept breaking through that would catch my ski and send me cartwheeling. The lower portions were spectacular and we had a blast. I kept thinking that sledder was in for a big ride!
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It is a violation of some federal statute (unlawful trade practices act?) to charge your account for something without having it in stock and shipping it out. Of course, this only applies within the US. I had a girlfriend who worked for a catalog business and they got hammered bad once for charging someones credit card and then basically forgeting about the order. A similar thing to what you described happened to me once at Mountain Gear. They did me right after I bitched though. I got the entire order free (~150) and free shipping. Caveat emptor.
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Suffer-fest near the Coe Icefall - N. side Hood.
rbw1966 replied to Know_Fear's topic in Oregon Cascades
Thats what I was thinking. Round trip from snowdome but like you I figured there would be minimal snow for the approach. Nice to know someone else suffered that instead of me. Did I meet you at Climb Max one time a few months ago talking about ice on the Coe? -
Suffer-fest near the Coe Icefall - N. side Hood.
rbw1966 replied to Know_Fear's topic in Oregon Cascades
Sounds like fun. I almost went over that way last weekend myself. Maybe this coming weekend. If you had it to do over again woul dyou ski to the base? -
Congratulations! Great TR.
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Voice of experience?
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and talking out his ass. Last time I encountered problems with dogs (I leave mine at home when I go to Smith usually) was a couple who were climbing five gallon buckets as their two rottweilers proceeded to destroy the juniper bush they were tied to in a hail of bakrs and bites. Not a piece of trad gear in sight. Smiths not exactly a trad haven (there are some great trad routes there but its mostly a clip-up) so blaming the dog problem at Smith on trad climbers is a tad bit disingenuous.
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Stop wasting your money on an education so you can buy the good stuff.
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That crust caused me to cartwheel at least three times on my way down Saturday. WHat day were you there?
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Those signs have been there for years. A friend got ticketed (70 clams) for not having his dog on a leash at least two years ago.
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I heard from someone who heard from someone else who heard from a friend of their's that we're all wacko. What was the point? I agree that his hand-drawn topos often leave much to the imagination but thats part of the adventure to climbing. The fantasy drawings are not to my taste but its his book to do with as he sees fit. I've yet to see a guidebook that was perfect to all people. I think he's done a great job. I hope someone steps up and starts working on the next update since he's not likely to pony up again and its a tremendous amount of work.