Alex

its raining pretty hard in Redmond right now.

Pretty much. This is an early season climb, and is quite steep in spots.

Lowell Skoog knows everything? Damn!

I've found the approach from Stehekin to be an acute pain in the ass, actually, I'd much rather go in on the PCT.

no, and axe is not needed either. just trekking poles fer your knees.

Send it Maestro, don't listen to these chodes.

We did this trip last weekend, great trip! Hitching upvalley is probably a bad idea though as you might come out pretty late. The bike suggestion is the best one. Its a 7 mile ride back to the car, almost all downhill. There is no snow from Stuart Lake TH to top of Aasgard pass, and again from Lake Vivienne to Snow Creek TH. Lighter boots are the way to go. There is still snow on the plateau, get up there early or its posthole central.

If the weather holds, i am in.

Bob, one way to look at this is how does caring about oxygen and sherpas (a "style" argument?) make one any different than say....oh...a Dan H0witt who cares about style in official timers and so on for speed ascents? Or whether you pull on gear while climbing Girth Pillar? It is no different. That people readily see Dan H's agenda as completely silly, but yet when the same things are applied to a slightly different scenario they somehow becomes a more interesting or somehow important question!?! Style, like the climbing accomplishment itself, matters ONLY to the person doing the climbing. Who cares?

Those guys over at Oregon Field Guide that did our segment on ice climbing last year would make great sherpas!

nalo, just kidding. The first real pitch, a long 5.9+ trad affair, is probably the toughest lead on the route. The very short 10a crack above the hanging belay after you turn the corner is just that: short. Good luck!

Great thread. as a person who just sold first house and bought second in seattle area, all I have to say is that if I had not bought the first one 5 years ago, I would never have been able to buy one now. Lots of great advice in this thead. Fairweather has some really good rules of thumb, though I am going on an 15-year fixed paying off in 11. Whatever works for you. As far as bubble, I doubt it! Consider this area of the country the economy is lagging a little worse than most other areas, but housing prices are climbing at a steady 15% a year (thats better return than any other investment you can make!) and we are in chronic housing shortage in this area. Buying a primary residence is a good investment. Buying rental property is also really good, if you have extra cash laying around: rental income is not taxed!

T-money!

There are no trickier trad pitches, ergo you get to lead it all

I took a 25 footer onto blue alien at Index, my first try at redpointing Godzilla years back. danielpatricksmith held that fall, actually!

Actually, Serpentine Arete falls squarely in the Alpine Lakes forum, but whatever. Good job, thats a decent route.

Thanks guys, I've come up with a plan for Thurs, then off for a 3-day trip Fri, Sat, Sun. Cheers!

but this gets done regularly as a day-trip ramble

I am looking to head wherever its dry for 2 days of cragging. Hook a bruthu up!

I've found leading 5.10 to be primarily a mental endevour. Loosing weight, being strong through the gym, and climbing harder grades than .10 with a more advanced partner will all help you get comfortable in the grade, but the #1 thing is probably just to get comfortable with the idea of falling, and falling on your own gear. Most people are unwilling to climb hard not because they can't, but because they don't really trust the system, and therefore don't commit to those 5.10 moves. Most 10s around here are not sustained, so getting that mental toughness to commit through a difficult section might be something you want to work on. You wont get there toproping 5.9s.

No offense, but "well-equipped" for Grouse? On a bloody hot day? Sandals might very well be in order.

When stupid people do stupid shit and and rescued by trained, comptent personel (which takes time and money), and have no remorse, you bet they should!! To exposit a bit, from the quotes it sounds like these two young men might just try climbing it again, when they get bored again, now knowing full well they can get rescued (ergo: no consequence for their actions) for free if they take a cell phone. Sounds like Chamonix.

These two should pay for their rescue

long soloable ski trip: Ptarmigan Traverse

Dude the first mantle to the bolt is hard!!