Alex

for 21.95, I will tell you...

SAT...S WIND 20 TO 30 KT. WIND WAVES 3 TO 5 FT. Can't wait for the carnage to begin!

Darin, that would be ultra-badass! If you need a partner, I'll belay you!!

even the 5.3s at Tahquitz can be pretty serious!

I believe it, though the rock is total mank in some places. I think you'd find it hard to find real solid rock to bolt protect. Blades still work though for the top pitch of Death Picnic, and its off vertical so rests exist.

5 days climbing ice in Banff with my wife. My wife decides to step up and start leading harder stuff for the first time this trip, just walks up to all this stuff and says "ok, I'll take this pitch". My wife kicks ass!

Thats pretty funny! I would buy one! How about "I burned one down at Muir with Scotty." - or - "Me and Capt. Caveman vs. The World...I'll take those odds!" - or - "No I don't post on CascadeClimbers.com, so don't ask me if I'm Dru" etc

Mixed Master == more ice than usual.

but I already published half my secret projects (yours for only 21.95)!

Sounds about right.

I think its trying to get away from JayB before it becomes a "kermit", if'n you know what I mean.

If you mean the original aid crack, its been freed at MHard. Alex

I tied into the rope with trask, once.

good effort!

Which edition? The 3rd edition? Its touched down a number of seasons since 1994.

Lambone, it may have fallen off or I just didnt see the thin cigar all the way down (more likely).

I was just checking that stuff out again yesterday, man Experts Choice looks really cool.

that looks cool Use this: http://www.wastateice.net/newroute.aspx

Johnston Canyon

Dale, I dont know. Canmore got some, but it was so warm Sat alot of it melted. It fealt like Louise and points N got raged on, and Canmore and points E got much less. Still, the winds were very high Sat (typical Chinooking) and I bet some drifts are forming with whatever snow made it that far East

Mark, I dont remember, though Paco did Carlsberg last week so he will know for sure. I didnt drive through Field (I went through Radium) or I would have more info.

back from a long weekend in Banff. Synopsis: a huge dump (50cm in Lake Louise and at Bow Summit) of snow on top of an already large snowpack for the month followed by unseasonably warm temps on Friday have left the entire range in typical Christmastime Chinook conditions: avoid anything at all threatened, avoid anything low angle. As a result, your options for the next bit are limited. The Bow and Columbia Valleys got significantly less snow. Temps were normal Sunday, -10 or so at night and -3 or so during the daytime. Details: Lots of familiar faces up there this time of year, including Layton, Ade, Colin, Wayne, Don Serl and co., Paco, others SouthGibraltar Wall in and nice. Stanely Headwall shaping up nice. Field I heard Mt Dennis and especially Carlsberg is as fat as it ever was. With the new snow Carlsberg is one of the safer places you can still go. Louise Louise Falls only left hand pillar is in, right hand pillar collapsed this past week. Johnston Cy is sort of in, with Prism and the far right in fat but none of the other inbetween pillars down. Bow Valley You now have to park about 10 min down the road to climb at the Junkyards. Junkyards have typical amount of ice. Banff Nothing on the Trophy Wall is down. Cascade is in but only a loon would climb it now. Parkway Snivelling very thin, Weeping Wall is in, but Left is buried in snow and/or very thin, Center in 5+/6 shape, Right in 4+ shape (styled by your boys Colin and Wayne on Friday, right before they shut down the highway for two days due to snow accumulation!). David Thompson Michael Layton had a look at Nothing but the Breast and said the bottom pitches were now gone, and that Two Oclock was a snow climb. Gib Wall, nice climb but flat tire. Weeping Wall, what it really looked like the day we climbed. Junkyards (the day I went to fix the flat)

Climbed Gib Wall Thanksgiving Day. In good shape and fun! See Pic http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB28&Number=281288&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=7&fpart=1

Its not bad at all. A little sequency but really only 10c and very short. I nominate the Pressure Chamber pitch as ultra sandbag at 10c/d.