DPS

11Worth might not have ice, but Snoqualmie Pass had been great this season.

And I thought dogs on Mt St Helens in winter was bad. Poor kitties probably froze their little paws.

That is brilliant.

Come on - it wasn't that bad! I saw you grinning about it! I guess I have to say it was the best skiing day I've had in four years.

I will attest to the lousy skinning/skiing conditions.

I hiked up Mt Si yesterday (Sunday) and saw two climbers on the Haystack climbing the steep gulley\crack on the south face. Conditions looked Scottish, complete with fog, wind, and blowing snow. I'd love to see a trip report and photos.

Some stuff at Alpental like Kiddie Cliff and Bryant Buttress can be top-roped, but I think the season may be over for those.

Not sure about the fall restraint thing other than I would never trust a friction knot to hold a fall, but you can tie a Bachmann knot or a Kliemheist knot with a closed loop.

Wow, very cool.

I'm betting with the good weather, NF Chair Peak is gonna be a mad house this weekend.

The weather is good, conditions are awesome, and I have a free day tomorrow. I'm looking for suggestions for a one day winter alpine climb within a couple hours drive of Seattle. Also, needs to be fairly moderate as I have Petzl Aztars so I can't climb harder than WI 3. I can think of lots of objectives, but most would require too much time driving/approaching. Thoughts?

It was a pleasure gentlemen. I'm pleased you got photos of the icy conditions, it is not often you get to sink 22cm screws into solid ice on Chair Peak!

Maybe this person's: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1118236/Re_TR_Chair_Peak_NE_Buttress_N#Post1118236

Triple Couloirs might still be in condition in early May, if it comes in at all. One to two days for TC, prolly two for SGC, which should still be in. Other gulleys include North Buttress Couloir and NE Couloir on Colchuck Peak, NE Couloir on Argonaut,and NE Couloir on Dragontail. The Ice Cliff Glacier on Mt Stuart may be of interest to you as well. In the Icicle Creek valley in Leavenworth are the 8 Mile and Bridge Creek campgrounds, both are Forest Service. I think there are more campgrounds further up the Icicle as well. Additionally, there are some other non official camping options. Other options include Coleman Headwall and North Ridge of Baker, many options on Rainier, North Face of Shuksan could be good.

Wow, Kaukulators for $6! Wish they were my size, best shoes I've owned.

You've done it so many times you should change your name to RainierClimber.

Hey Gerrit, I live in Issaquah and would be down to hit up the crag after work or on a soggy weekend some time. FWIW, Alex and I 'discovered' the potential for mixed climbing there years ago when we were working construction together. There were some really poorly placed 1/4" bolts there already, but Alex cleaned up the place and put in reliable anchors. Dan

I have a pair of Marmot Expedition Primaloft mitts. I have yet to use them yet, even after three Alaska Range trips and multiple winter ascents of Rainier. My old Lowe Alpine Primaloft insulated gloves have been plenty warm for my cold weather climbs.

For Rap wall - walk up the Alpental valley to Source Lake and turn left as for Great Scott Bowl/The Tooth. The Rap Wall climbs are on the obvious steep cliff on climber's right shortly after you leave Source Lake.

I guess Rap Wall is what the cool kids are calling it these days.

Mile-O motel is nice and reasonably priced.

Ummmm, walking up the dog route on Rainier 10 times?

Try Bryant Buttress at Snoqualmie Pass.

All of these peaks are avalanche threatened, so be careful out there. Silver Peak Red Mountain Granite Peak Bryant Peak Mt Snoqualmie Guye Peak

I use a 100g Primaloft hooded jacket (Patagonia Micropuff) year round. It is adequate for the Cascades in winter. For Rainier in winter I use a warmer parka (Wild Things Belay).