DPS

All about the same. Crevasses are pretty big on all the glaciers on Mt. Baker. On the Easton they are big enough to swallow snow machines every now and again.

If my hobby gave me panic attacks I would find a new hobby. Hobbies are supposed to be fun and relaxing.

Nice to see Juan getting out in the hills again! When we did SGC it was a long walk out, but at least our feet hurt.

How did that work out for you?

Thank you for your response.

I think around 2 oz per person, per day is fairly accurate. So, for an overnight an 8oz canister for a 2 person party. I always plan for 2 extra days of fuel just in case. Some tips with the Pocket Rocket. - 16 oz fuel canisters are a bit lighter than 2 8 oz canisters. - Sleep with the can to keep it warm. - While cooking, set the canister in a dish (Tupperware lid works well) of warm water to improve cold weather performance. - Brunton makes a stove stand that works with the Pocket Rocket that makes it more stable and allows you to use a wind screen. It is worth the weight. The canister is connected by a flexible tube so you can invert the canister to force fuel into the burner in cold weather. - I spent some time tinkering in my garage to improve the Pocket Rocket's efficiency. I reduced fuel consumption and burn time by about 30% with a heat exchanger and a good pot. - I built a simple heat exchanger by crimping an MSR windscreen and then riveting it together. Kind of a poor man's version of the Reactor. - The most efficient pot I found is a one liter, black anodized, aluminum, tall, narrow pot.

Can you comment on how much longer Curtis Ridge might be in shape, assuming the cooler weather we have been experiencing persists?

I didn't see a category that summarizes my approach: When I don't know how deep the water is, I dive in head first.

There was still a couple of feet of snow in the higher bowls and the north side of the east ridge of Ingall's Peak held a fair amount of snow. I would expect there to be snow at the notch on the North Ridge of Stuart, and if you opt to do the gendarme bypass I would expect snowy, wet, and/or verglassed climbing. I did see a trip report for the Serpentine Arete of Dragontail, so north facing rock routes in the Enchantments are getting climbed.

Needs more cowbell. But seriously, incredible.

I've done the South Ridge twice (from the notch) and both times we did an awkward couple of moves leftward right off the deck - felt about 5.9 and another steep pitch climbing on good pockets, but somewhat strenuous. I keep reading trip reports that indicate the route went at 4th - low 5th. Am I doing something wrong?

So, that last couple of times I did Torment-Forbidden, we climbed the South Ridge of Torment (I think). There was a fair amount of not super easy climbing on it, and I have heard the South East Face is considerably less technical. I don't have my Beckey guides anymore, so can someone give me some beta on the South East Face, particularly where it starts relative to the S ridge (which we started right at the notch)? TIA

Mowich Lake road is typically gated at Paul Peak trail head which adds about 5.5 miles or so to the walk, however, I'm not sure where the washout that YocumRidge mentioned is. I crossed the Carbon last year around July 15th, and crossing the Carbon was not terrible, but was also not trivial. Spray park is mighty pretty. One thing you could do is take one car, approach via Mowich Lake, descend the Emmons out to White River and try to impress some tourists enough with your badassness to give you a ride around to your car.

I would be surprised if the road is open by then. I've gone into Ptarmigan Ridge 5 times and some years Mowich Lake road does not open until late July. No shuttles that I am aware of. Renting two cars just sounds like a hassle that is not worth it. I've approached Ptarmigan Ridge from both White River and Mowich Lake, and I think approach from WHITE RIVER makes the most logistical sense, especially since you will likely have to walk the Mowich Road anyway. The approach from White River takes me the same amount of time as the approach via Mowich when it is gated at Paul Peak. I don't understand why you feel more comfortable going via Mowich with a two person party. The Emmons descent is more difficult than the approach across the Winthrop and Carbon glaciers. If you are not comfortable crossing glaciers with a two person party, you may want to rethink your objective.

All good recommendations. I'll throw Clamshell Cave area in the Icicle in. Usually not too crowded as it is a short hike from the road and it has a number of high quality single pitch 5.7 - 5.8 cracks.

I agree with Jason, pretty straight forward to approach via Mountaineer's creek. If your plan is to enchain Colchuck, it is straight forward to make a couple raps off the south side of Argonaut and walk over to the west face of Colchuck. I know Paul Klenke (and Martin Cash?) did this CTC in a day.

I've been in twice in years past around that time and had to hike the road a short distance when because of a large, lingering snow patch once and had clear sailing another year. As for water, there is a small tarn in the moraine right below the North Ridge and Adams Glacier that I have camped at and is a reliable water source. Campsites there are decent and very close to the start of the climbs. I would still treat your water though. My preferred method is chlorine dioxide tablets. Lighter than a filter and effective against virus particles. The one time I got sick drinking untreated water in the Cascades was most likely a viral illness.

It can be done, you will need to drop into the basin below the North Face of Argonaut by dropping down a gully on the crest just east of Argonaut. I've only done this in winter though, not sure how it would be this time of year.

It sounds like you fellas had a grand adventure. I was struck by the kitty litter pitches and the relative lack of snow on the Ridge in your photo. It seems like the season is earlier every year for that route.

The Asolo Fugitives appear to lack heel and toe welts, so you will need a pair crampons with front and rear 'basket' type of binding system. The Grivel G-12 New Classic is a solid choice: http://promountainsports.com/index.php/climbing/crampons/classic-trad/g-12-new-classic.html

I had the thought of a creating a curated collection of some the best trip reports and calling 'Uncle Tricky's Bed Time Stories'. His story about his go around with the snafflehound in his cabin is pretty awesome, some TRs by Mike Layton are pretty classic and anything by Tvash or Ivan would make some great bathroom reading.

I like the Clamshell area. Lots of moderate single pitch routes in the 5.6-5.8 range and nice flat area for the kids to play in. The approach is not super short, but not especially long or steep.

That was me and another fellow you ran into. We were on skis and had planned on climbing the NF and skiing the White Salmon. The White Salmon was bony looking and the NF socked in with clouds so we ended up yo-yoing a nice stash of powder. I knew of John through this web site and had the good fortune to run into him a few times in the mountains. He was unfailingly friendly and stuck me as being very strong and competent. My heart goes out to his family and friends.

Insurance companies will use any and all excuses to avoid paying on a policy. I have found consulting a lawyer who is an expert in their field to be worth every penny.

Still easier than tying back up knots.