DPS

I used the Gore-Tex iron on repair fabric. It has lasted 4 years now.

Actually I hope to eventually redpoint a 5.6. My wife and I will be camping and climbing in Leavenworth for the weekend, so I was hoping to do a tour of the easy, accessible routes.

Just remember Mountie, lead, follow, or get out of the way. If I spy a route that I like, I'll be leading it. I won't be asking any 'station leader' for permission. Its not ok to drape top ropes over every available route and claim them for the day.

Were you wearing a blue Seattle Marathon shirt? I think I may have chatted with you. I was wearing the same shirt.

Last minute plea for partner for alpine climbing this weekend. I have a route in mind, but will consider other ideas too. Please EMAIL bighurtbob@hotmail.com

Email me at bighurtbob@hotmail.com

SALMON, DAMS, AND WE THE PEOPLE An evening with David James Duncan April 29, 2004 :: 7:30 pm Town Hall Eighth and Seneca, Seattle Doors open at 6:00 pm for book signing and silent auction Special appearance by Yvon Chouinard, owner/founder of Patagonia David James Duncan is the author of The River Why and The Brothers K, and a collection of memoir and short stories, River Teeth. His most recent book, My Story as Told by Water, won the Western States Book Award and was nominated for the 2001 National Book Award. Duncan has read and lectured all over the United States on wilderness, the writing life, the nonmonastic contemplative life, the fly fishing life, and nonreligious literature of faith. Tickets are $10, and are available at: Elliott Bay Book Company (206) 624-6600, Patagonia (206) 622-9700, or at the door. Event sponsored by Patagonia. Proceeds from ticket sales and silent auction will benefit Save Our Wild Salmon (www.wildsalmon.org). Silent auction featuring items from Patagonia, fly rod from Sage, Outcast Lake Cat 7000 Pontoon Boat from Kauffman's Streamborn, and many more!

Ditto the crevasses. I fell the entire rope length into one high on the Gib Ledges route. The crevasse kept going for a loooooooooooong way. I shudder to think what would have happened had I not been roped.

I have the same problem. Either go without the bivi bag, get a more breathable one, i.e. not Gore-Tex or use a synthetic bag.

John Roskelly.

I recently read the Hitch Hikers Guide to the Galaxy series and thought they were very entertaining and clever.

Hi Tim, I had a 9.4 BD Hotline that I bought specifically for alpine climbing. It did not last very long as the sheath was very thin. Jugging on it sucked because it stretched so much. Other than those two issues, it was a fine rope. I use a piece of it to tie loads down on my truck now. I use a 9.7 Maxim for all around use now. Heavier, but in my opinion worth the extra weight. Plus it was cheaper.

There are no laws prohibiting you from going up with a new friend and paying for the gas, the permit fees, the food, maybe some new gear and then buying said new friend dinner afterward. I'm always looking for new friends, catch my drift? Wink, wink. I have a buddy who guides for RMI, and I would recommend him to anybody. He is a great guy and takes his job very seriously. If the other RMI guides are anything like him, RMI would be a fine choice. Jason, Your dad is giving a talk where I work in a couple of weeks. One of my colleagues has known him since the 70's. I am looking forward to it.

We must have climbed the west ridge, but it was more like the north face of the west ridge.

Climb: The Castle, Tatoosh Range, Mt Rainier NP-West Face Date of Climb: 3/15/2004 Trip Report: Three of us skied and snowshoed to the Castle/Pinnacle col. Climbed snow and rock to the summit of the Castle. Snow to 45 degrees, third class rock. Down climbed the south face. A lot o hikers, skiers and snow boarders out. Nice views, a bit windy. Gear Notes: Took second tools, rope, rack. Did not need them. Approach Notes: Good snow shoe trail from Reflection Lake

lost arrow, do you mean two exits to the main couloir? If so, I recall that now, but the variation is quite minor. I should add that the main couloir has fixed anchors for double rope raps. I don't think any section was steeper than 65 degrees, with the possible exception of the traverse pitch. I agree with lost arrow that the Japenese Couloir is one of a few truly easy routes in the Ruth. The West Face of Mt Dickey is another one, and although I have not climbed it, I have heard Mt Dan Beard has a very moderate route on it. I don't think Japenese Couloir is worth a trip in and of itself, but include a few other climbs and you could spend a nice couple of weeks, especially if you bring skis and do some skiing.

Aspirin and garlic tablets have worked very well for me. I saw a program on the history channel about the Chosin battle in the Korean war. The battle was in the winter and many of the soldiers suffered severe cold weather injuries. One vet who was interviewed said he has never been able to sleep under blankets since, he gets too hot.

I did Japenese Couloir on Barille last year in early May. I don't remember any variations. You climb up an obvious gulley to a small col, traverse below a rock band, and then up another gulley to the summit snow slopes. It took less than five ours from our camp on the glacier to the summit. We reversed the ascent route using rappels and down climbing. We roped up and belayed two pitches.

I know a couple of people who have used a cord that runs from the ski tip to a strap around the upper calf. Supposedly it allows one to lean back. There was a 'Tech Tip' in climbing magazine awhile back describing how to do it.

I think all those radicals should be kept locked up, not running around free.

Hmmm, I'm below average. My share of the national debt is only 12K. What happens if the US defaults on its loans? Will the bond holders start repossing the country's assets? If so I got dibs on a fighter jet.

I own an Integral Designs MK1 Lite and have used a Bibler I tent. They seem to be very comparable in size, weight, setup and quality. One nice thing about the ID tents is that they can be custom ordered to have different features.

Some land-use agencies may require insurance before they issue permits to guide on their land. Other than that I don't believe there are any other agencies that legally require one to have insurance. I am sure Scot'teryx would know all the ins and outs as he recently started a guide company.

When I picked up the Grivel Evolution in a store I immediately thought it would be perfect for Liberty Ridge, Coleman Headwall, NR Baker and the like. My personal preferance would be to bring a more substantial second tool than the Grivel 3rd tool. I did Lib Ridge on July 15th, (the last day of free climbing on Rainier) and there was one pitch of hard ice climbing out of Thumb Rock and hard ice on a traverse below the Black Pyramid and about 500 feet of hard ice below Liberty Cap. I think the Evo would have done quite well for those conditions. In the spring I would guess there will be less hard ice and more snow.

The route was skied on tele gear in march 2000.