dbb

... the big spires are pretty snowed in. Probably for the season, but who knows. We talked to people who said they've climbed 'em in mid-October in shorts.

The main detractor from cheap cams like Robots are that they have a BIG reduction in usable range. They also are not as durable. I say buy your big cams as forged friends: #2, 3, 4. As ppl have said, they're light, cheap ($25-35 at MEC) and bomber. Then drop the cash for Metolious or somthing good for the small stuff. don't buy more than 6 cams to start with... (then start working on your "aid" rack )

TTT- Yep that was us. I was the one draggin' behind How did your one-day push go? Did ya trip on all the RMI "night climbers" on your way up?

A friend did the route a year or so ago and said it was pretty mellow. Mostly 4th or low 5th class. I'd imagine that if you're quick and confident downclimbing that terrain solo then it could make sense as a north side descent. (Though if you're just trying to do the NR w/ a day pack, I'm sure there are better ways...)

Long days on the Central Mowich Face

talked to a ranger yesterday and he said the route was "unbelievably melted out".

we were climbing on the NW face of Slesse (not on route but more towards the West rib), when I pulled on a big flake of rock (7ft tall, foot wide, 6" deep). It rocked, and then I rocketed it seeing as no one else was on the mountain. Down the face it went which started a literal avalanche of debris down the gullies. I think it got a good 100 ft. of air before it hit. sweet! [ 07-17-2002, 08:35 PM: Message edited by: dbb ]

I agree w/ allison, buy the pack! I bet materials (with 1/2 yard minimums) would equate the cost of the alpine attack ($49). Go to Jim's shop and get it today, that's what I did. (great pack BTW) I've sewed quite a few things, but mostly because I couldn't find exactly what I needed or because it was actually cheaper. Replicating good, already cheap gear is probably not worth the time.. my 2 cents..

Climbed Serpentine Arete Tuesday with great route conditions. No water or ice, and snow could be avoided. (Two parties bailed on backbone Monday due to verglass) Pictures and full report on my web page. Go climb up in there before the road closes! Dave [ 07-04-2002, 02:47 PM: Message edited by: dbb ]

the easiest way to descend the west ridge (if there is no snow on the NW face) is to rapp down onto the NW face to about the level of the notch. Then walk the 3rd class ledges back. You could also downclimb the west ridge which would be good if there isn't a ton of people coming up.

dennis, you forgot to tell 'em to take up SCUBA diving! you're slippin man...

Here's the ridge as of sunday. Looked like a lot of snow on the few pitches below the gendarme.

I was able to buy a little bottle of it at the brew store. Guess it's used in brewing somewhere. I suppose if you couldn't find it you could just squeeze your bison ball over the pot.

Why not make your own GU? It takes a little time before the trip, but if done right, you can make tasty "packages" of GU for 10-15 cents. My favorite homemade flavor is "almond-GU". Worst flavor ever: scotch-GU. Tutorial Here: http://students.washington.edu/dbb/make_gu.html I think Cliff shot and all those that use brown rice syrup are pretty gross because all they do is add heavy flavors to cover up the nasty of the syrup. I also think that adding your own vitamins and aminoacids is probably a little overkill. You can easily get those in natural food forms for a heck of a lot cheaper than you could trying to eat it synthetically.

sounds like this guy's axe. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=30;t=000005

True! I'm amazed no one has brought up the simuclimbing fall that Dan Alyward caught on the SW buttress of Eldorado last fall. He was leading, with one pice in for 3 people, the last guy falls, pulls the middle off, and Dan catches them with a good ledge and a "solid crimper"! Thus all you need is a solid crimper and a rope! (oh yeah, and Dan's finger strength) The way I see it, when simulclimbing exposed terrain, putting in periodic pieces turns a death fall into a fine/bad fall. The belay technique that Jason mentioned also works really well when descending. While downclimbing, rush ahead while the lower climber is in a good spot, and slap a munter hitch onto the biner of the piece you're at. When the rope comes taught, move to the next piece.

I have recently converted the old 1972 buildering guide to the UW campus into a web page. There you will find route description for major "Peaks" of the range, pictures of selected routes, new construction updates, and maps to Peak locations. There is also a crag/bouldering section. Check it out under "special features": http://www.alpinedave.com -Dave

word Dru. What is it with everyone loving aliens for free climbing?? When they get old the stems get all flopy. Metolious all the way for little cams!

Hey TTT, how were conditions on the Coleman-D for a ski descent? Those 'schrunds at 8K opening up much? how about that corridor leading up to the saddle, is it still pretty smooth?

It may be nit picking, but just because you can follow the trough up the DC 5 times in a summer, doesn't mean you have the sense to climb a route like liberty ridge. In fact, climbing a route like the DC over and over probably just instills a false sense of security about your own judgement on the mountain. btw, the survivor descended the winthrop glacier. Epic.

I think eric is creating a girlfriend for himself. Instead of Amber, let's call a spade a spade and use "Lefty." btw "Lefty", visit am I hot or not .com often? http://image.amihot.com/hostedphotos/3EDDB299AB1641609B4FF2C6E99EAC83.jpg ...I'm such a

$15 for toilet paper? Don't be so narrow minded. It does pay for the blue bag/toilet program, but I personaly like to be able to melt snow and drink it. What you're really paying for is to have world class rangers like gator and his staff there 24/7 to haul your broken ass of any spot on that mountain.

no kidding dan, I was parked there all day too and was positive we'd get a ticket. Too bad Larry didn't show up, I think super-Bob could have thrown him in the river! ...more about bob [ 05-17-2002, 08:12 PM: Message edited by: dbb ]

I had a spring break (shear) in one of my metolious cams this weekend. Has anyone had this problem fixed with the company before? Home remedies?

My vote would be for heading down the Emmonds and cutting back across the Winthrop for two reasons: 1) if you go to the real summit, you'll have to climb all the way back to liberty cap to descend LR. 2) The descent down Emmonds is trivial in May, and the walk across the Winthrop goes really quickly. Then again, if you run up, tag liberty cap, and then come back down the upper part of the route in the warmer part of the day, it could be a good option. Also, no need for two axes on this route if you're comfy on steep snow. maybe bring one in the party for leading the ice step(s) at the top. Good luck!