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Everything posted by JasonG
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https://www.anacortesnow.com/news/community-news/4749-snow-clearing-on-north-cascades-highway-making-progress Next week!
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Oh, I know. But that dad joke was just too good to pass up!
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I'm heading to pick this up this weekend, thanks @max!!
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[TR] Mount Torment - Moraine Lake Couloir, NW Glacier 04/16/2022
JasonG replied to geosean's topic in North Cascades
Wow! -
I need to plan a Canada trip next season. I mean, just look at this view from the front porch of the Stanley Mitchell Hut!
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https://lakechelannow.com/north-cascades-highway-update/ Seems like next weekend isn't going to happen, mid May this year?
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[TR] North Cascades - Sloan Peak - Superalpine (WI3-4, 1000') 04/17/2022
JasonG replied to niroyb's topic in North Cascades
Cumbre!!! Well done!!! That sounds like quite the effort. Thanks for the detailed beta and beautiful images....so great!!! -
[TR] Mount Torment - Moraine Lake Couloir, NW Glacier 04/16/2022
JasonG replied to geosean's topic in North Cascades
Yeah, that is true, with snow I think Eldo is the better approach. I like the idea of a Torment Tour, going down the couloir to the lake and finishing by up and around to Eldo and out. Camping at Moraine Lake is pretty special, definitely one of my favorite spots. -
[TR] Mount Torment - Moraine Lake Couloir, NW Glacier 04/16/2022
JasonG replied to geosean's topic in North Cascades
Wow! That is an amazing trip, thanks for the beta! Just so I am clear, you only needed the fixed rope to access Torment and not to descend the couloir? And, is there any reason you didn't use the torment basin route? -
I've always been too timid to try it. Seems like it wouldn't end well in firm snow. On two-tool steep routes I've not thought self-arrest was really a good option, but interested to hear if someone has been successful.
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I hope nobody is taking our comments as judgement. I think we were just providing some info that was asked for about the TC and the range of terrain/conditions he may have experienced before the fall. Climbing is dangerous, roped or not. This has been driven home to me by several close calls over the years (some roped, some un-roped). I have also lost several friends to the mountains that were stronger and better climbers than I. However, climbing is still something that many of us can't seem to quit, much to the chagrin of our loved ones. Climb on Dr. Thurmer......
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Agree with @kmfoerster....I think in anything but the best conditions there are several insecure sections (i.e. what I found when I climbed it years ago). Also agree that it is unlikely that the runnels were in very good shape and he likely had to use the bypass (which we also did like @kmfoerster). Even in good conditions, when the ice is solid and fat, the route is a funnel, so any falling debris could knock off a soloist pretty easily. I too am sorry for your loss @Norman_Clyde, it sounds like a terrible situation all around.
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Wow, thanks @Slab Mistress. This is what I still love about the site, there are folks here who can answer obscure questions with authority!
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That does look lonesome @dberdinka!
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[TR] Slate Peak - Clean Slate Couloir 02/21/2022
JasonG replied to geosean's topic in the *freshiezone*