JasonG

My photos still display smallish, even when I upload them full size. Not sure if you were talking to John or myself . . . .

I agree that a couple slings would probably be OK, but 3-4 med. nuts and tri-cams are pretty light and give the less bold some peace of mind. To each their own though. Bottom line is that I would highly recommend going straight up the rib under the nest of rap webbing rather than scrambling further climber's right on loose but easier rock (I've done both). OK, we've really beat that short bit of 5th class to death! I'm done, I swear.

Oh, and you only need a 37m glacier rope if you don't mind climbing 5th class on a skinny. The 18m rap off the summit will get you to scrambly terrain that isn't too bad to downclimb. I didn't seem to remember needing big gear like described above, and it is a long way to haul a hand sized cam/hex . . . . JG

Bring a couple nuts/tri-cams and climb the rap route on the true summit- much more solid and only low fifth class. Camp on the snow dome (by the glacier research hut- dry flat sites) if you have an extra day and go over to the middle peak. Sunsets over the pacific from the summit(s) or the dome are well worth hauling the gear up high. And build a huge fire at the Guard shack camp (9 miles in?), just to make the rangers nervous- they need some excitement. Have fun, it is most certainly a NW classic.

Awesome, thanks! I have a date with that part of the cascades, but it will have to wait till next summer when I don't have a newborn in the house. . . your beta is much appreciated. JG

As others have said, nice work! I had an approach question: Did you cross Agnes Creek a little farther north than what Beckey describes? I know you have been in there several times, so I was wondering if the line you drew on the map was (in your opinion) the best way . . .Thanks for any info!! Cheers, Jason

I don't know whether to laugh or cry. C'mon, that is just plain ridiculous. . . . Well, I suppose I shouldn't be envious, my looks and skills are a better match for the Cascades- I wouldn't fit in anyway.

More like 6 miles I think . . .good wide tread the whole way. Not sure if it is legal to bike.

A few more photos, although I didn't take very many as we were trying to race the softening snow . . . Steve in the middle of the gully- Cutthroat from the top of the gully- Looking towards Black Pk, and entering winter conditions on the north side of the ridge- On the summit- I made this sign up beforehand for Steve, thinking we were going to have to hitch a ride. How could anyone refuse to pick up a clean-cut, active duty officer (even if he might need a shower)?

OK, some pictures: Creek crossing near the haripin- Liberty Bell and Whistler- Booting up with expanding views- Starting to get steep and scenic- Dallas at the base of Mushroom Tower. Knickers and red wool socks, doesn't get any more classy than that! Mushroom tower, Dallas, Mark, on the steeper (and softer) than it looked traverse over to Big Kangaroo. Dallas assured us it is much better without snow- The man with the plan, on his 50th year of climbing! The view east to the Gardners- Dallas on the final summit block of Big Kangaroo-

Forbidden east ledges descent is still VERY snowy . . saw it pretty plainly from Big Kangaroo on Sunday. I'd bet there are still snowy/wet/icy bits on the various ridges.

Thanks for a great day out Dallas! I'll have to go back for Melted. I will try and get some photos up soon . . .stay tuned. JG

Do tell . . .

Thanks for the write-up Steve! I'll try and add some photos in the next day or two. And for the record, I was whining too, but couldn't do much about it except to keep going. It would have been bad form to go for a long ride on my first outing after baby #2. Kurt-your friend was OK? How far did they get swept? Very scary, and one of the reasons I keep putting off that route between N & S early. Scott- Catch dem fishies so you can get back to the hills pronto!

WA pass is going to be very dangerous this weekend. I would stay clear.

Not that you want to hear it now, Kyle, but some friends battled through thigh deep slop during a heat wave last spring and found OK conditions in the NE couloir proper. It is shady and steep enough that it seems to be fairly firm even when the slopes below are slop. Nice effort though- that is a baking slog over to Colchuck without skis!

Likely sold, but I'll post back if it falls through. Jason

MSR heat exchanger, brand new, never been used- $20 MSR MiniWorks Water Filter- $40 This is hardly used and a couple years old (still have parts, bag, instructions, etc.), but seemingly identical to the one in the link below. I'm in Mount Vernon but could drive them north or south for a serious buyer. http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3664338

Well, I bought it a couple of years ago, and have been happy with it. I couldn't return it with a straight face . . .

We bought this about 2 years ago to use for family backpacking, but our family has outgrown it! Only used about 10 times and in perfect condition- no tears or holes and zippers/poles all work great. Here is the latest model at REI; it is identical to the one we are selling (except ours is blue)- why change a great design? http://www.rei.com/product/779434?preferredSku=7794340013&cm_mmc=cse_froogle-_-datafeed-_-product-_-7794340013&mr:trackingCode=AA96071B-81F9-DE11-BAE3-0019B9C043EB&mr:referralID=NA It is only about 5.5 pounds, and it holds up quite well in wind and rain- always kept us dry. We are including the custom made footprint for the tent also. From a non-smoking house . . . I am up in Mount Vernon, but could drive it south (or north) for a serious buyer.

Nice work on the direct finish. I think most folks (myself included) traverse left into a gulley, just before the top. Later in the season, your "disconcerting" snow is a rock slab and a bit tricky. I'll have to go back earlier, looks like nice way to go, although snow conditions sounded a bit exciting, considering the drop below.

Scott Bingen 7pm- June 2, 2010 - Skagit Valley College Roberts Hall, T-41 "The Great Northern- Climbing and Ski mountaineering in Canada and Alaska" Please join us at this month's Alpine Club meeting as Scott Bingen shares pictures and poor wisdom from his explorations over the last 15 years in the Great White North. A commercial fisherman by trade, Scott's schedule allows him to get out on extended trips year round, often to far-flung, cold, and chossy locales. From Mt. Robson to Dutch Harbor, this wide ranging show is sure to take folks to unexpected places, and entertain them with tales of success and failure. Right now Scott is probably off somewhere, searching for the perfect choss pile, but on June 2nd he'll be at the Skagit Alpine Club monthly meeting- Don't miss it! We will be meeting in Walter Roberts Hall - T-41. Scott will go on after our regular business meeting at 7pm. Here is a link to a campus map: www.skagit.edu/images/color_mvCampus.pdf.

Josh- Be careful on little tahoma, it's fairly treacherous, or can be depending on conditions. Lots o' rockfall when I was up there . . .

Hmmmm. . . .I didn't seem to remember much trouble sniffing the way the couple of times I went up there (once summer, once winter- both successful)- but I didn't do much research (or maybe what's in the Olympics climbers guide is quite good). It is a great viewpoint, nice work!

Ah yes, should have read more closely. A glutton for punishment . . .