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Everything posted by JasonG
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Well, @John_Scurlock told me to steer clear of books but maybe I might try next November? I'll have to look into what it would cost and what I would have to charge to sell a few copies. Maybe @olyclimber can create a poll to see how many copies I could expect to sell? I do know that I would have limited appeal outside of the North Cascades. Thanks for the encouragement @sepultura and @emilio taiveaho pelaez! Choss-land is calling you both!
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There are plenty of good practice slopes up by Heather Meadows (upper Baker ski area lot). You may wait for snow to consolidate though, May is often a good month to dust off the snow skills before alpine climbing season. Once they start clearing the road to Artist Point, the snow walls are good practice "crevasses" too. But there are steep drops off the roadway that can also work.
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Well, from the article I read about this, I think the folks up there unfurling the flag were already fired?
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Me on the summit of Sahale, back when I had hair, September 1995. Cotton jeans and flannel!
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This is really inspiring @Fairweather, please post some TRs! I am only about halfway to that climbing milestone. My first technical summits were about 30 years ago. I'll try and dig up a cotton and denim photo of me from Sahale in the mid 90s....
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Another plug for Dylan at Mount Vernon gear repair.... just had a jacket and pack repaired within 2 days.....Back to chossing without delay!
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The void at the center of the human condition will never be filled with climbing (at least it wasn't for me), but it is a fun hobby. Glad you survived unscathed to continue your quest! The Polish route has always looked burly, and this TR confirms that it isn't to be taken lightly...
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It is shocking to see just how much so.....I was last on Frostbite Ridge in high summer of 2003 (August?) and it was completely snow covered, top to bottom. We only had a tiny bit of ice climbing out of the crater.
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[TR] Jack Mountain - Nohokomeen Headwall 01/26/2025
JasonG replied to Eric Gilbertson's topic in North Cascades
The East ridge is classic! Though more in a scrambley than hard climbing way. Still, I thought it was highly recommended....but the South Face wasn't super fun to descend (still the best way down probably in summer though). -
There aren't enough USFS LEOs to deal with keeping the crush of humanity out of our public lands for the next 4 years. I suspect that they won't like how DC comes down on this.
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Here you go @korengalois: JasonG portfolio images I probably need to update these galleries....been a couple years since I added some images to them. But....you get the idea - I like hauling a boat anchor around the mountains.
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Awesome @3rdclassmaster, post up your adventures when you do make it back this way!
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Happy to sell images to whomever for a small amount above my cost. I have never even really sold one so I can't get greedy! And let me know when it is time to do another auction to keep the lights on around here.... And how much $$ do you need to run some of these off @olyclimber? I'd kick in a few dollars.
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Happy to provide whatever image for a sticker!
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A good example of how each year is it's own animal @bigeo, thanks. June used to be the time for a lot of snow stuff in the Cascades but it tends to be earlier these days....unless it's not!
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That is a pretty sweet ride .... for Kiba!
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From the Mountaineers (I haven't camped on the Wilson nor skied the Finger): Follow Wilson glacier along the left edge to about 9,000 ft, then cut across to the right towards the cleaver between Wilson and Nisqually glaciers. There is a good campsite at 9,500 ft. Some parties have made camp at 10,000 ft but had to dig platforms. And yes, snow depth in the south cascades is about average but we are in a dry spell so who knows by spring.
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Agreed with @bedellympian and @olyclimber....by the time we have stable weather each year it is time to ditch the skis. And trust me, don't climb up into a lenticular! Best to have some alternative descents planned out. The volcanoes stretch all the way down into CA and you can often find good conditions south, if Rainier and Adam are socked in. Some years, May is the ticket, other times it is April, but rarely is is mid June or later.
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Trip: Mount Harvey - North Face Ramp Trip Date: 01/25/2025 Trip Report: What a nice spell of climbing weather we had to start off 2025! I'm glad that @geosean suggested the NF ramp of Harvey, a climb I had done a couple of times before, but not for a long while. Last time I was on it, it was quite thin and sporty, but the word on the street said it was in fine nick and so plans were hatched to make a trip north and see if Canada was still allowing Americans to enter. @BrettS and Mike rounded out our team and we all met early in Bellingham Saturday morning. I think it only took about an hour and a half, including border crossing to make it to the TH from Bellingham- it is easy to forget what great options exist just a little bit north. The Trailhead was already filling up when we arrived a bit before 8 and we quickly paid the parking fee and started up the dry logging road at something like a dispiriting 650' elevation. It is a bit of a grunt up to the start of the route, but you get good views early on the hike in: In the 13 years since I'd last climbed it, the route has gotten mildly popular and there were several teams in front of us and at least one behind. A steady stream of ice and snow chunks rained down the ramp as we geared up and started off simul-soloing. We had the gear and rope ready, just in case, as @Don_Serl recommends in the link above, but they stayed packed away as we climbed higher and higher with perfect conditions and ample steps to draft off of. I was reminded what a great and pleasant climb it was, in a fine position! But almost too soon, the angle mellowed and we were at the top of the ramp, looking across the steep traverse that guards access to the easy ridge that finishes on the summit. Some times this portion is a crux, but not this day. It was practically a sidewalk and we enjoyed posing for some photos with dramatic views of Howe Sound below: And then we hit the final ridge, sun and views. @geosean walking just below the top: We stopped just short of the summit to eat lunch, take off the technical gear, and admire the excellent views all around. The Standard route on Harvey (our descent) is quite the popular outing on a nice winter's day and we didn't want to be in the scrum on the actual summit. This was a good call on busy Saturday, and we could look south to Baker, Puget Sound, and the Lions in peace: To the west were the endless Coast Mountains, Howe Sound, and Anvil Island: But, a winter's day, even a perfect one, is over too quickly, and we had to begin the descent before we tired of the views and position. The good thing is that the first quarter of the descent is almost as spectacular as the climb: And then it was back to the road, the car, beers, and chips. I think it was less than 7 hours car to car and was entirely one of the more pleasant winter climbs that I have done in years. I hope that it isn't another 13 years until my next visit! Gear Notes: helmet, axe, second tool, steel crampons. If it is in thin shape you may want a rope and some snow/ice pro, but it is also a comfortable solo for a lot of fatter winter conditions. If you need snowshoes it is probably not in great shape. Beware avy danger! Approach Notes: The Lions Trail. Arrive early to get a spot and don't forget to pay!
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Absolutely! That was key, and I appreciate Jon and Sean taking their Sunday morning to head up while I built capital with the family for the Lincoln trip later in the week.