JasonG

Things happened before the internet?!

Wow, that sounded like quite the rescue in 1978! I would not be psyched at a 1000' lower in that shooting gallery..... glad nobody was killed.

Hey @Joshwl.....Sounds like you should hire some guides and not put that sort of responsibility on partners to bring a minor home alive to his parents. I worry that anyone under 25 won't properly understand the gravity of having someone's son in their care on a route like Liberty Ridge. As the parent of 15 and 17 year old boys, I would ground my kids if they were trying to do something like this with your level of experience- mostly because I've climbed Liberty Ridge! While you may pull it off and be the "youngest" to climb the route, it won't result in much attention and really isn't something that will change the the trajectory of your life for the better. Sorry to be the wet blanket old guy, but I do believe it is the truth. Glad that you are so psyched on the mountains though! It is a grand hobby that can enrich your life for decades....

Strong work in early season conditions!

Crazy how much the trees have grown and the glacier has shrunk in 45 years.

One of my favorite hikes ever, so great!....spent five days out there in the fall of 2002 on our honeymoon....what a magical spot! Too bad about all the boats and helicopters these days, I don't remember many at all. I've been thinking about going back for our 25th anniversary in a couple years and this TR is good motivation! If you went a little further, dropped down into the valley and then scrambled up towards the SW end of the Kalalau beach, you would have seen this view of those cliffs in a couple of your photos:

Yeah, it isn't very crevassed or steep, but you could still slip and slide a long ways. I usually haven't roped, but crampons will sometimes be needed depending on overnight temps. It is a very scenic outing, but somewhat crowded (likely to be multiple parties on the route).

Good point on the summit blocks of the two mountains. But Black can have some steeper snow to deal with lower down, depending on the snow year. I guess I figured the OP knew his way around 4th class rock. Sahale isn't too bad to downclimb.... if you don't fall. I guess I should say the same for Corteo. A slip would be very bad.

Any snow left on Black or Sahale in late August or early September will be hard and not easy for someone without snow experience to travel across. You will need ice axe and crampons and know how to use them. You might be able to avoid the snow on Black, but not on Sahale. Roping up on either peak usually isn't necessary for those that are comfortable scrambling exposed 3rd or 4th class rock, but steep snow is no joke if you aren't familiar. I would stay away from anything with snow, unless it is very low angle. A slip usually ends very badly if you don't know how to self arrest. Thanks for the offer Rob, looks like some cool scrambling down there!

That is a good time to do some scrambling for sure. West Ridge of Columbia with a camp at Twin lakes would be a good two day adventure. Crater would be another with a camp at Crater Lake. Thornton Peak is a good 1-2 day scramble, but permits can be hard to come by. Corteo, Tomyhoi, West Ridge of North Twin, Del Campo, Vesper, and Sperry would be good one day options. None will have much snow to contend with at that time of year. You can buy copies of the Green and Red Beckey guides to provide info, or search the web for TRs.

I haven't seen @mattp around in awhile but maybe he has some good legal perspective on that? I know he has worked with non-profits and is an attorney. Glad to hear of this desire to keep this going long term!

Well, @John_Scurlock told me to steer clear of books but maybe I might try next November? I'll have to look into what it would cost and what I would have to charge to sell a few copies. Maybe @olyclimber can create a poll to see how many copies I could expect to sell? I do know that I would have limited appeal outside of the North Cascades. Thanks for the encouragement @sepultura and @emilio taiveaho pelaez! Choss-land is calling you both!

There are plenty of good practice slopes up by Heather Meadows (upper Baker ski area lot). You may wait for snow to consolidate though, May is often a good month to dust off the snow skills before alpine climbing season. Once they start clearing the road to Artist Point, the snow walls are good practice "crevasses" too. But there are steep drops off the roadway that can also work.

oh yeah @JBo6, you'll love it! Post a TR please! I had to bail on my hut trip this year due to being sick.....

That looks terrifying, well done in keeping it somewhat safe and sane. What a place, I had never even heard of it!

Well, from the article I read about this, I think the folks up there unfurling the flag were already fired?

Me on the summit of Sahale, back when I had hair, September 1995. Cotton jeans and flannel!

This is really inspiring @Fairweather, please post some TRs! I am only about halfway to that climbing milestone. My first technical summits were about 30 years ago. I'll try and dig up a cotton and denim photo of me from Sahale in the mid 90s....

Another plug for Dylan at Mount Vernon gear repair.... just had a jacket and pack repaired within 2 days.....Back to chossing without delay!

The void at the center of the human condition will never be filled with climbing (at least it wasn't for me), but it is a fun hobby. Glad you survived unscathed to continue your quest! The Polish route has always looked burly, and this TR confirms that it isn't to be taken lightly...

It is shocking to see just how much so.....I was last on Frostbite Ridge in high summer of 2003 (August?) and it was completely snow covered, top to bottom. We only had a tiny bit of ice climbing out of the crater.

I feel like yes? But I know Steve Swenson would disagree.

Now that is what I call adult entertainment!

Glad I could give you hope for when you reach your mature mountaineer phase @Alisse!

The East ridge is classic! Though more in a scrambley than hard climbing way. Still, I thought it was highly recommended....but the South Face wasn't super fun to descend (still the best way down probably in summer though).