JasonG

http://www.king5.com/new-day-northwest/Author-John-Scurlock-136742298.html Cool to see John on TV talking about the new book!

I sure love lookouts, and really wish we had more of them. Unfortunately, there were quite a number of them burned down from the 1960's onward.

John, Drew was referring to Lowell's climb chronology.... no need to apologize. Thanks for the tidbit about DHS though, I hadn't even considered that aspect to shooting the book.

I will be advertising it officially in a couple weeks, but I wanted to give folks a heads up that John and Steph Abegg will be doing a tag team presentation at the Skagit Alpine Club on Feb 7th (Burlington Public Library, 7pm). He will be mixing it up a bit from his standard book talk, and will be presenting on how the book came about. Steph will round out the program with a presentation on her and John's week doing aerial photography in the Canadian Rockies. Of course, Snow and Spire will be for sale (and signing), with the proceeds going to benefit SAC. Thanks much John and Steph!!

Maybe in France. In America, special interests run this country, and that's the way we like it. Seriously though, thanks for framing the issue. I may need to send an email also.

Thanks! It is always good to get the details on a climbing accident, so as not to make the same mistakes. Though this is a lesson I've already learned (though not the hard way), you never know....

So was it a glissading while wearing crampons mishap?

Just got my book for Christmas, and it is something every North Cascades Connoisseur needs to own!!! Fantastic work John, even better than I thought it would be. I'll bet the first printing sells out rather quickly.....

Ha! Now that is funny. The squeaky wheel.....

Interesting....so are you carrying all of your kit on your back when riding? Did you end up pushing your bike a fair bit on the climb to the Thorung La? I seem to remember it as fairly steep, and at a decent altitude. How much of the circuit is now overtaken by road? I have heard that it is pretty much a waste of time anymore on foot....looks like maybe a mountain bike is now the preferred method.

Ah yes, they did mention the selling of vehicles to support their mountain habit. It is Russian way, no?

Trip: Unicorn Peak - Standard Date: 12/22/2011 Trip Report: FWA of the 2011-12 winter!! The long spell of unusual December weather continued through the first full day of winter this year, and a Smoot/Nelson ticking party was organized for an assault on Unicorn peak (via the standard route). I had last climbed it in the summer more than a decade ago, so it was pretty much like a new mountain for me. WBK and NTM came along for the fun (or rumors of summit babes?), and made sure that things never veered towards the serious. Well, maybe until the last couple of miles slogging on the road back to the car, whereupon WBK got chewed out for pissing on a snowbank. Pretty funny actually ("Could you at least scrape the yellow snow away?"), considering Mr. Anal wasn't even a ranger. There is a first time for everything, I guess. Slogging in on the Reflection Lakes Road: Unicorn Peak, the objective for the day: Climbing up to the col south of the peak: NTM at the south col: WBK and NTM pause to admire the view and fuel up: Approaching the summit block. We climbed right up the middle: WBK on lead: Steep and fun!: Summit! Tick, tick: NTM on rappel: Did I mention that you have fantastic views of Rainier all day?: On the deproach, WBK with Mt. Adams behind: Interesting lenticulars kept us company on the hike back: Gear Notes: Axe, crampons, half rope, small rack. The rock was pretty clear of snow and ice, so other winter ascents may find it more challenging. For us, it felt like a short bit of mid-fifth. Approach Notes: For once, snowshoes were the ticket. Ski conditions were absolutely terrible. Follow the summer route from the reflection lakes road, parking at Narada Falls.

Certainly not me! I have a lot of respect for the local hard lines that got climbed awhile back during the winter. Nelson and Lewis's Slesse NE buttress climb stands out especially. Compared to that, maybe the pup wouldn't be bad for some hardperson?

Good point about signage....even if it is in the park, they need to sign it. Good luck, and please post back with the outcome.

Given how frequently it normally snows around here in the winter, I would suspect that the system is easily exploited by contractors unless folks speak up (contractors could bill for every storm, but only plow every other, etc.). I find it hard to believe that Dan could have visited a Snopark all winter and NEVER found it plowed if the system wasn't totally screwed up. "Um, I plowed that lot at least 10 times this past winter....please pay the attached invoice" It is unlikely that the state is verifying every bill that comes in for plowing. Sounds like they are relying on complaints to tell them when things aren't getting plowed. I think the OP's call to report unplowed Snoparks is right on the money.

I was joking with a friend years ago about "sport aiding", where the difficulty scale is dependent on the distance between stick clips. I think you may have invented just the right tool, though if you go any longer you may want to mount a scope on that bad boy. We started the conversation after aiding (in the rain) a particularly well bolted (and overhanging) climb at Skaha that was well beyond our leading ability.

The head ranger has an opinion/interpretation of the law like the rest of us. When it comes to gray areas, the "truth" lies in the court's interpretation of the legislation. Of course, if the pullout is state park land, which it appears to be, then the legislation is pretty clear that you need a pass.

You have to zoom way in before the parcel lines show up. . . . If you click on the parcel with the pullout, it lists "State of Washington" (aka state parks). If you try and click on the ROW on either side of it, it doesn't hyperlink, which is typical in my experience for highway ROWs (at least on SnoCo's website). I don't know why.

Actually, if it is the pullout just west of the rock, the parcel map makes it look like it IS part of the park. At least according to the link I posted above....

I think the state parks map is misleading. Look here to see a more detailed view, including parcel lines. Much of the 14 ROW appears to be controlled by WSDOT and not state parks. There are some irregularities though, and it looks like state parks does control some of the highway. I am not sure if this is an official parcel map though. I found the page linked to the Skamania County Assessor's site.

I just hope to see a video of 10 fuel canisters leveling a campfire, sending a plume of embers 100 meters into the sky. Preferably set to a good dancehall tune. But maybe the tent pole will be used as an antennae for a remote detonator?

I think it hinges on whether or not the pullout is in the park, though. If it is outside the park, you would be accessing the park via foot/bike and wouldn't need a vehicle pass, correct?

Please fight it. I would bet that the state highway ROW is not part of the park. The parcel layer could tell you for sure, I don't know if Skamania couny is online with theirs or not. This could save you time in the long run if you check it out. As Ivan said, if it is WSDOT property and not state parks (likely) then you are in the clear and should prevail in court. And, whatever you do, don't ignore it.

Brawndo....It's got what climber's crave!! I had two liters along with me on the climb. Funny you should mention it, Scott was telling us he thought Brawndo would be in good shape right now.

picture? How old? I may be interested...