jon

http://www.cnn.com/2001/HEALTH/conditions/06/13/lyme.disease.ap/index.html

Hey Aidan- Lets slap 40 pounds of Chillupas and Keystone Light around your waist and see how well you climb then! Viva los pinche gordos! I'm not too huge into the who's best thing, but if I had a vote it would go to Fred not because he has climbed everything or has more FAs than anyone else, but no one (that I know of) has contributed as much to PNW climbing as him, he did write the cascade bible.

God that beer tastes good!

Something for the record: 1. I did not post that, neither did Tim, honestly I have no clue who posted it. 2. Yes, I removed two posts yesterday, something which we rarely ever do. One of these was a threat directed towards us. The person who wrote cowardly erased the message before I had a chance to read it. 3. I have moved a few posts to spray tonight, we sometimes move posts to proper categories. Sorry, I’m still at work on a Friday night and waiting for something to finish, so I’m a little bored.

i suggest leaving mono lake after 10pm, that way you can avoid paying the $20 entrance fee! BOOO YAHHHHHH!

My roommates are friends with one of the guys, I'll make sure to get the story.

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/active25.cgi = No Spray Topic http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/cgi-bin/active40.cgi = Spray Topic Pretty easy even with a few beers in you!

Pope- What do you mean by positive and negative clearance, are you talking about the shaft? Are you looking for a mountaineering axe or an ice climbing axe? Maybe I'm just an idiot (feel free NOT to comment on that one). If you are looking for a general mountaineering axe I suggest finding one where the shaft is flush with the blade on top. Most of the Grivel axes are like this. Most standard axes (Like the REI Mountie axe which I’m guilt of owning) have the blade protruding on top, which can make your hand sore if you are weighting on it a lot. Having the shaft flush translates into a little more comfort with no loss in strength (I think). I'm not sure why all axes aren't like this. I just bought a Grivel Pamir, it's a nice compromise between strength and weight. I considered an Air Tech but I'm a fat boy and questioned its strength when in dire needs. This is my unexpert opinion by the way.

http://www.cnn.com/2001/WORLD/asiapcf/south/05/24/nepal.everest/index.html Youngest person to climb Everest. Looks like he has a little head trauma, shouldn't have left the nitro in the sun. AIDAN, YOU STILL HAVE A CHANCE TO HOLD THE RECORD!

Who's team are you on Blakley? Time to bring out the big guns. Ok, how bout a high altitude snowmobile with anti avalanche guns and big pipes off a Harley, leather silver beaded thong included.

Caveman, you left out one key point with the wiskey bottle, it's empty. I didn't want to have to do this but I'm upping you Vertical Limit on DVD. Take that sucka!

I up Caveman a half rack of Schmidtyz

[This message has been edited by jon (edited 05-23-2001).]

I'm looking for some non-plastic boots to supplement my trusty Makalus. I've climbed with plastics but love leather. I'd like to use them for mixed, ice climbing, more wintery stuff requiring a warmer boot. Does anyone have the Lhotse or something comparable? What kind of foot do these boots work best for? Are they warm enough for multiday winter routes? Thanks!

It feels like this is directed at me. I think the haste in which I wrote my post wasn’t clear in what I meant and left out some things, so I will elaborate a little. First, Donna you’re right, point taken, I apologize for the foul mouth. I was wrong in saying people are trying to ruin this site, that is not what I really meant. I’m not sure what I was aiming at, more the lines of involuntarily devaluing it. That is up for argument though, and is dependent on who you ask. People may get the impression that we were against spraying on the site, which is not true. We did create the spray topic for this vary purpose, and with a few exceptions have done virtually no censoring. Like many of you I get a good laugh out of many of the comments and I think it gives flavor to the site. I do believe though there is a time and a place for such comments. After “Spray detracts from this site” topic I changed a few of the scripts, detailed in this post http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000346.html . This wasn’t an attempt to cover up spray, just give people the option of seeing it or not. We are not taking sides on anything; we are just addressing a situation. The exception to this is our unwritten policy on making threats. I don’t find this the least bit unreasonable. I don’t see my vote counting any more than anyone else’s here, it’s just I have to determine the consensus and make a decision, but that’s the place we put ourselves in and I can live with that. Dambed if you do, dambed if you don’t, right? All we can TRY to do is the best job we can. I think the last paragraph in my first post is important, and that is to have a little respect for other users. It would suck to create all this animosity between someone on this site, only to meet them on a route to discover how cool they actually are. I think many of us are different in flesh and bone than we appear in pixels on a screen. We are not trying to create a stale, sterile atmosphere, but I believe you do have to draw the line somewhere. Where that line is drawn is up to you. This site isn’t much without the users, I see it as a community website (maybe not representative of the whole climbing community). It’s your contributions that make the site a valuable resource, we are just providing the medium. This is your site. You gotta admit, it’s funny that we are arguing about this at all. Happy surfing, spraying, and climbing! Jon

I considered writing the typical conservative reply that pleases everyone, but maybe I’ll just tell everyone how I really feel, otherwise I’m just lying. I’m pretty pissed off how people have taken it upon themselves to try to ruin this site and what potential lies within it. I don’t know what these peoples motivation for doing this is but I’d wish you’d find something more constructive to do with your day, or find a different bulletin board. I work during the day, spend very little time on the website, so I don’t have time to babysit the boards and ponder whether something should be put in the Spray category or not. Even if I did have that luxery moderating the site is something I don’t enjoy, and honestly would think it shouldn’t have to be done. What really sucks is when I get emails like this during my work day, Jon, Thanks for trying, but a few idiots have ruined the site. It could have been pretty cool, but what can you do? All normal people I know who used to visit the site don't visit anymore. Maybe a little closer refereeing might help for future people visiting. I won't be coming here anymore. Who cares what this guy says you say? I care, because I’ve gotten lots of email like this, from people I know. I’m not upset these people tell me this; I’m upset because it is true. The site was started by two normal guys with a cool idea of creating a resource for others to use to share beta on routes, gear and such. At times it’s hard to believe how many people use this thing now, how many people are registered, how there can be 25 people on the website at one point, it’s almost overwhelming. I hope people have been able to get something useful out of this thing, I know some have, including myself. It was done on beat up old computers with 15 inch monitors and hacked software, done on our spare time. We don’t do this type of stuff professionally, just taught ourselves how to do it. Now we are paying $45 a month for hosting to develop a route reporting database, the original concept of the site. What do we get out of this? At first doing the site was a lot of fun, and still is, but recently its created lots of grief. All I ask is people treat others with a little more respect, treat the site with a little more respect, don’t post tons of useless cra[, take what people say with a grain of salt, don’t take things so personal, keep it real for crying out loud. It seams people’s questions, which may be dumb to you but not to others, get drowned by a bunch of smart-aleck comments. Just cut it out. We created the spray category for you, at your request, keep it there; it’s permeated the rest of the message board. Oh, and one last thing, don’t threaten people here, it will no longer be tolerated, GOT IT! Back to work. Jon [This message has been edited by jon (edited 05-23-2001).]

www.webshots.com

I thought I'd maybe offer a little different perspective on the issue, which someone in another thread did on the snowmobile issue http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/000318-2.html. I know how I feel about the bolting issue, but my style of climbing isn’t the issue here. In college I took a lot of biology and some ecology classes, though no geology (at the UW the intro class was called Rocks for Jocks!). Being in science I guess one of the things I’ve become aware of is how really insignificant each of are in respect to time, i.e. creation of the cosmos, evolution of life etc., but how great of an impact we can have on our surroundings in the little time we are here. I guess what I’m saying is the rock has been here a very long time, and when you die, the rock will still be there…. for a very long time. You drill a hole in the rock, bolt or chopped, it will be there FOREVER, even after you kick the bucket. I’ve got an idea, hey Doc and Mike let’s jump in the Delorian and go to the FUTURE. Do we have the 3.1 jigawatts to jump the space time continuum? We sure do Doc, I’ve rerouted all the power we are sending to California! Enter date into computer: May 19, 2201 (that would be my birthday but I’ll be dead for the last 100 years!) In this issue of Climbing eZine Chris Sharma IV climbs the worlds first 5.16d. Article: Chris Sharma IV following in families footsteps leads worlds toughest climb at (enter your favorite crag here). The crux move comes next to an nice but unused finger crack, where he underclings to a bolt hole, heel hooks to a another hole three feet up and, then dynos 8 feet up to a pair of bolt holes, latching with his middle fingers (insert picture of Sharma flying thought the air middle fingers extended). Quoted after descending the route, “I’m glad those guys thought ahead when designing those bolts to make them big enough for my middle finders.” He named the route Hilti Chopsui Middle Finger Fahqu. [This message has been edited by jon (edited 05-19-2001).]

I was up there with some friends about a month ago. There was still lots of snow a mile before the parking lot, but the snow and weather conditions sucked and we didn't get too far up the trail. There were several avy debris fields before hitting the switchbacks, which is where we turned around. Since it was a month ago I know this doens't help much but I can give you some advice having doing that hike/climb several times. Give yourself plent of time, it's a longer trip than it looks. If you aren't on skis you may want snowshoes or you are in for some serious posthole pain. The Ruth Glacier should not be a problem, there aren't really any crevasses from what I remember. The only "sketchy" part of the whole trip is the little traverse from the top of the climbers trail from Hannegan Pass that leads around that hill onto the glacier. One time when we did it that part was incredibly icy, and if you slip and can't stop your are in for a serious ride over a cliff. I would think this early though it shouldn't be a problem. Hope this help, Jon

Here is the route list from Victor in Micro$oft Word format. Download it by clicking on this link www.cascadeclimbers.com/LeavRockRoutes1.DOC Viktor (spelled your name right this time, sorry) has asked that people down load the list, comment on the routes, and email the file back to him at v.kramar@mastecps.com. I'll let Victor add comments on what he is specifically looking for. [This message has been edited by jon (edited 05-15-2001).]

It's 2 AM on Monday morning and we appear to be up and running. If you encounter any problems send us and email at climb@cascadeclimbers.com Jon

The message board will be shut down at 10 pm on Sat. May 12. We are in the middle of a web host migration and this must be done to prevent loss of data. We don't anticipate any problems after the migration is done. The migration involves changing our domain registration, which may take minutes or hours depending on internet traffic. What this means for you is that you may hit the site on the old host, hit the site on the new host, or not hit it at all. At this time you will be able to read messages but not post messages until our domain change has completed. Sorry for the inconvinience. Jon

Victor- You can email it to me and I'll post it on the website. People could either download it, comment on it, then send it back or people could just download it and have a thread here where people can put the collection of comments for all to see. Thanks again for all your hard work. Jon intensity@cascadeclimbers.com

http://www.halcyon.com/rdpayne/nccc-news-0200.html#6 http://www.freeourforests.org/ Somewhere on this website there is a letter you can post on your car that says you are not engaging in recreation and thus can't be fined.

Eric- Good idea bro. I've seen Ben Harper live twice and he is a pretty incredible musician. Thanks for the heads up. Aidan- I didn't think most people your age listened to Zeplin. Not everyone here is an old fart, just caveman. My list is way too big so I'll just put down some favorites and stuff I've been finding. Hendrix- I saw this chick hump his statue naked, no kidding. Ben Harper- Plays lap slide guitar, does some incredible Hendrix covers Rage- Listen to this before soccer games and take peoples heads off. Morelo is the man. Jurasic 5- Just heard of these guys. It's rap and it's good shit. The Doors- Makes some people totally tweak out. Fatboy Slim- Some funky stuff, some tracks will put you in the zone. If anyone says Kid Rock I'm going to steal cavemans club and shove it up your pendejo (than give it back to caveman!)