robertm

Suppose it was your job to pull some yuppie asshole in a SUV out of the snowbank that has never seen snow. I would require chains just as a deterent. Everyone has a 4x4 these days and it doesn't mean shit. Moreover, when the guy that doesn't know how to drive on the the snow/ice comes careening around the corner in their EXCURSION and plows into your ass you will be wishing the Rangers made them chain up too.

I am looking for information relating to rock quality on Austera ridge (is it Eldorado orthogneiss or something else?). Also, has anyone been down to Austera lakes up and over Primus Peak? If so is there a Icefall that blocks access or is the glacier straight forward? I am looking to do a traverse from Austera Lakes East to Austera Peak. Any information would be appreciated. Robert

On a related note: Has anyone seen the pillar that forms above the Nisqually glacier bridge on the way to Paradise? Its hard to say how long it is but it looks like a full pitch and fairly hard.

I havn't climbed the price glacier but have been back there a few times on routes next to it. It seems like the best time (depending on how much snow we get in the winter) is from the 2nd week of July to 1st of August. It might be a good idea to get off the thing early because it gets sun early and most of the day. We witnessed a avalanche that thundered across the entire face all the way into Price lake around 2 PM. A party we spotted on the route had just topped onto the shoulder about 45 minutes prior none the wiser.

I use my Saloman SMG9 mountaineering boots with Burton Pro bindings... it works great no need for the moon boots.

Was up around Alpental last night. No consolidation... lots of wading through deep powder. I can't imagine that the gulley would be in. Great backcountry riding though.

Snowboard Connection in Seattle under the viaduct sells the Voile split boards. They are a great setup with the Monster skins that will climb shit that a teleboard can't. The board comes with the skins and the performance difference between a split decision and a regular board is almost nil except on piste where you will only notice a slight difference under icy conditions. The price for the board and bindings was around $1000.00 though... kinda pricy. Here is a link... you can get crampons for them too. I have the old school set up now but am looking to upgrade after snowboarding with a buddy that was using a split from the Summit of Baker last winter. (I have also used his board at Stevens and it was pretty good... my normal set up is a Morrow 165 with snowshoes) http://www.voile-usa.com/snowboards/index.html

I would be the bald guy. Hair is just extra weight... a fleece hat is lighter

climb to the left of the prominent cheval and ascend overhanging 5.6 face... belay stances are numerous... one piton used for saftey

N. face of Chair never came in all last Winter... neither did the NE Slabs on the tooth. The S. Face was snowfree w/ bare rock all year though.

I doubt it... it sounds like they were descending and came down in the waterfall/cliff area between Guye Saddle and the West face of Guye peak proper. That area is littered with rappel slings from those that have made the same mistake. It is class 3 steep downclimbing with some class 4 steps which are marginal when dry but slicker than shit when wet. When descending you need to keep going towards Snoqualmie peak until you pick up the trail. Do not be tempted to head towards alpental too early.

The improbable traverse route on the peak is pretty cool and and the rock is amazingly solid. The middle two pitches are the best for any climb in the area and have great exposure (both 5.8).

Chianti Spire - East Face "Rebel Yell" Awesome climb but really kicked my ass. We did a variation to the left of P2 that started out as 5.10 fingers lieback and progressed to a 5.10+ OW Coffin that wanted to spit you out to the left other pitches were easy compared to this one.

We went up and left... 5.8 to gain a small ramp and then follow the path of least resistance.

Erik might bring the "bong" water. I would bring some potable too.

Those damned things were all over me all the way up Silvertip Peak around Monte Cristo. I would kill 50 with a single swat. At one point I must have looked like Pig Pen with a swarm of them all over. I don't know if I have ever seen them so bad.

The trail up to cub lake is in great shape. From there a straight forward traverse over Itswoot ridge to the col. A great "hike" with awesome scenary but not much of a climb. The variation in the Nelson guide (SE peak to NE peak traverse) looked "out" due to huge horizontal crevasses across the face. If you are going up there and want some rock climbing on stellar rock try the S. ridge of snowdome. It is on the way, fun and moderate. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/ubb/Forum2/HTML/000135.html

Whats up with requiring one of those F*#&@ing passes at Blue lake trail head at Washington Pass? I thought all Liberty Bell and SEWS, NEWS etc was in the National Park? I saw several people with tickets last weekend including some Canadian and out of state plates that I am sure have no clue about paying these fees.

Looks like Tieton... Eds Jam perhaps?

Brian, how is the rock? Is the climb worth the hike? I always look at Cruisier each time I pull out the Olympics guide. Thanks

Remember not to throw away the screw that comes with them... as a buddy of mine did. He found out what it was for all the way across the Chickaman as the crampon kept coming off of his boot... we had some duct tape to fix the problem. I have the steel ones (same binding) and they work great. I have a really lightweight salomon gtx boot that keeps my feet dry on the glaciers and this setup works well.

I assume you are talking the Dolomite Tower route? You should be able to find it... by following the old aid line topo and looking for the shiny bolts. I have heard it is 10+ to 11 and fairly sustained.

Two friends of mine did the pillar last year and said that the route is not as described in Select Vol. I due to a large rockfall. Talking with Jim Nelson at PMS he also said that he had heard from other climbers that there appeared to be some significant rockfall on the route.

South Ridge of Snowdome Pk. (8740 ft.) II+ 5.9 Snowdome Peak is located above the Dome Glacier aprox. 1/4 mile North of Dome Peak. The climb begins in the col between Flat Top and Snowdome (Snowdome on climbers left from the flats of Dome Glacier). Climb is on excellent granite and is 8 pitches in length. Route: Pitch1: Proceed over the gendarme/tower in col (5.5) pitch2: Climb up short ramp and left avoiding obvious clean offwidth (this looks good but didn't have gear to protect). pitch proceeds to the left of the crest and then back on crest after some difficult moves and tops out on a small gendarme (5.8) pitch3: Maybe the coolest pitch with awesome exposure and views out to Glacier peak, Hydromatic spire and Dome glacier. Proceed out onto the face (left of crest) into a central crack system. Climb the crack up the face and then move right back onto crest under roof. (5.7). Pitch4: Crux pitch. Climb obvious splitter hand crack left of ridge crest up and over lip. Proceed along left side of ridge encountering a solid finger crack system. These moves are exposed and exhilarating up and onto a face/ramp. Complete the pitch by following ramp to a belay (5.9). Pitch 5: Climb ridge crest up and down into a notch via exposed downclimbing or possible rappel from horn (5.7). Pitch6: Climb the ridge crest and slightly right to avoid overhangs and difficulties (5.5). Pitch7,8: Climb on the exposed ridge crest and enjoy the view on sold and moderate climbing to the summit (5.4). Descent: Proceed north on class three ledges until able to proceed no further. You should be looking across at Overdrive tower. From here look down and right (east) and you will see a rappel that will take you to a col. From the col head north and proceed down (west) a third class gully to Dome Glacier. There is some loose debris in the gully so either stay close on the descent or go one at a time. Notes: don't know if this has ever been climbed before... wasn't in Beckey. Was inspired by a picture in a Washington 2000 calendar taken by John Marshall from a airplane. The climb was well worth the approach in combination with Dome peak traverse as described in Select Climbs Vol. I. We also went to do Gunsight but as my earlier post indicated the E. Face appears to be changed dramatically. There is a ton of good rock up in this area and I am sure a ton of new routes to be had. My pictures are back and turned out pretty good now I need to get them scanned so I can post. Let me know if anyone needs any additional details.

Went to climb the East Face of Gunsight (Vol. II Selected Climbs)last week. The East Face route has been changed by a major rockfall. The ledges were full of dangerous loose blocks which are razor sharp. It looks like a huge overhang fell from high up on the route and scoured the face. From the last ledge there is a 20 ft. high pillar to your right which is just waiting to go. We experienced large amounts of rockfall on the route and rappeled into the the cleft between the South and Main peaks. We completed the route via S. Face and SE Ridge to the Summit. The rock was awesome once we escaped the East Face and got onto the cool ridge to finish the route. Just wanted to get the word out if anyone is headed back there. The West face of the North Peak looks great but I am not much of a 5.10 OW climber.