robertm

With the good weather window but a short amount of time we decided to head up McClellan's Butte today. The snow conditions were excellent. We cramponed up the couliour that you can see from I-90 until we cliffed out and then climbed two semi-rotten mixed rock pitches (5.5) up and right onto the NE Ridge. You don't have to climb the rock... you can go right and enter the ridge up higher from another gully to the climbers right. The route once on the ridge stays on the crest for the most part at parts steep vertical tree climbing (don't be sucked back down into the basin the climbing looks harder than it is). At about 4900 feet we contoured NW into a bowl and then gained the ridge crest again with a cool ice pitch (50 feet) and mantle up and over a solid cornice-- you might be able to avoid this by going out and right up a snow ramp but there is a large cornice overhanging the ridge where it exits. From there it was class 3 to the summit on mostly rock. It was a fun way to spend a short day. (on trail at 0830 at car at 1600 -- wasted about a hour on the rock).

Just got back from an attempt on Guye. The snow was very stable on the aspects that we hit (mostly west and south). It was mashed potatoes with a rain crust on top. There was no fresh snow up to 5000 feet... just crusty crud. It was warm (almost 45) at 5000. Needless to say the ice was coming off of the rock and there was running water everywhere. It was fairly tough going even with snowshoes... sinking in up to your knees. The bc ski conditions were about the worst you could hope for... lets hope this shit freezes and we get some good bonding.

And a Big Bro

Conditions were thinner than when I have climbed it in the past. It made for some fun mixed climbing with the ice where you need it. 2 knifeblades (used both) 1 baby angle (used but probably shouldn't have -- shitty) 1 Ice Screw (tried to use but ice wasn't thick enough) 3 cams (didn't use) 2 TCUs (used the yellow one) Set of nuts (used several) 2 hexes (used both) Slings (6 singles, 1 double)

N Face and NE Butress on 12232002

Caveman Chillin'

According to WADOT the road is closed at MP 148 from the West and MP 178 from the East.

It is a cannon Hole on the Gunsight Peak ridge. Here is another one that is larger:

I like doing Lundin from the other direction (West). You can stay on the ridge crest for some fun 5.0 climbing.

We did the West Butt route a couple of weeks ago and retrieved the blackdiamond rope that was lodged in a flake on the west slabs descent. ID it and its yours... looks like it might have been cut. Might not be a full 50m. btw... this descent sucks balls. It took almost longer than the climb... find the psalms 23 descent and don't be suckered onto the west slabs (climbers right).

I would pitch in to replace the old 1/4ers on giants tears. It deserves more traffic.

It looks like that Swauk sandstone to me.

Lightning Dome?

We got down with one 50m rope. No big deal at all. It might be a bit faster with two ropes but probably not enough to justify the weight.

When I climbed Gunsight it looked like you could cross the blue glacier and descend down to a lake and head over to Agnes w/out any brush travel. This might be the way to do it... go in through downey creek and across dome and down. Would make a hell of a tour in any case.

I have a Sony DSC-5 and it works great. Small and light. Good pics and battery life. I did a lot of research before buying. As a side note... it took a 30 foot tumble and put a dent in the side but it still works like new.

Approached up Silverstar creek on Saturday to climb Clean Break on Juno on Sunday. We set up camp and decided to climb Bachus tower from the east (same side as Clean Break). The rock looked pretty good from a distance (not so good up close... loose blocks) with an attractive summit ridge. We dubbed the climb "Compound Fracture"... description follows: Bypassed snow couloir on rh side via short 5th class rock sections intermixed with several hundred ft of 3rd class continuing up loose scree on rock until level with lower section of broken face. Inspected a direct line on rh side of face from ledge through crack system and small roof but abandoned that for short scramble up cleaver in rh gully transitioning back to face about 100' up. From top of cleaver, traverse left and up to face. Climb and stem chimney to reach ledge, traverse left until beneath hand crack. Climb crack to a roof and upper face (5.10-). Climbing toward and then on ridge, find summit (3-4p mid 5th ). Not highly recommended but has a couple of quality pitches - a good option for the approach day for Clean Break. On Sunday we climbed Clean Break with some great weather and good climbing. Started climbing at 7 AM and was on top at 1:30 PM.

Nice going CM3... that has been on my list for awhile. How long in total was your approach the first day?

He also did Argonaut

With a early start it should be no problem for you to do Colchuck, Dragontail, Prussik and then descend and do outerspace or orbit and then down to snowlakes trailhead. You will have to either bike back up to Stuart lake trailhead or hitch a ride.

I am sure the hardest part of the climb will be the crawl up the slesse mountain trail... what a bitch that is... the crux of the NE butress for sure.

Last I heard the bolts were in. (as of mid July) Caveman would know for sure.

Has anyone else done the direct North Face route on Vesper? Not the one in the Selected Climbs II. Wow, pretty dirty and scary! I remember having to simul climb on wet/mossy 5.8 because there was no gear to put in a belay and one marginal cam between us. You had to excavate each placement. Fortuntaley it was pretty short and the views were amazing down to Copper lake but I think I will opt for the Wiegelt route the next time.

Nooksack tower. 1st time - Scared 2nd time - Scared and weather sucked 3rd time - Scared, forgot helmet climbed it anyways.