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Everything posted by bedellympian

  1. [TR] Dragontail - Gerber-Sink variation? 3/24/2015

    Thanks Alex! Yeah I looked at a bunch of TRs for G-S and was noticing that most people actually start it almost the same way we did, instead of how Beckey shows it in CAG. I have a hard time believing there are reasonable variations that haven't been done given the number of ascents and caliber of climbers who have taken their turn on the route. To clarify though, the gully I'm talking about is NOT the final couloir in Triple Coulis. The gully was tucked right next to the side of the fin and popped us out into the couloir about half way up. After looking at pictures in other TRs, it looks like people usually go further left and enter the couloir earlier. This TR shows it better. Here is a picture from that TR that I put some arrows on... red = fin yellow = rock feature Beckey shows the route going up in CAG purple = the "gully" we climbed green = the pitch most winter TRs show people using to access the last couloir in the Triple Anyway, now I've sprayed beta all over the dam place. Hopefully I didn't ruin anyone elses adventures
  2. [TR] Dragontail - Gerber-Sink variation? 3/24/2015

    Crazy. Well maybe Alex could comment and let us know if that was what he bailed off of. The two nuts and sling were all spread out, the lower nut had a bail biner on it, the second nut did not, the sling was tied off and hard to tell how old in that environment but still slightly green colored. If anyone knows anything about this behind-the-fin variation let's hear about it. It's a cool section and I think could actually be straight forward ice runnels in the right conditions. Definitely worth investigating if you want to avoid some more snow slogging.
  3. [TR] Dragontail - Gerber-Sink variation? 3/24/2015

    Okay so maybe those pitches haven't been done in winter before? You'd think with a peak like Dtail it would have been climbed at some point. Edward said he felt the pitch was maybe around M5, at first he thought maybe even M6 but I guess he got a glove stuck in a handjam and had to pull it out. I've never really climbed M-graded stuff before so I really have nothing to compare it to. It felt kinda like old-school 5.9 when I followed it, a little committing and awkward but all there once you go for it. DPS- Did Alex make a TR? Can you link it?
  4. LaSportiva Nago size 39 used once

    Bought these Nagos, size 39, cause the shop didn't have 40s and I needed shoes. Too tight for sure, not gonna stretch nearly enough. I used them once to climb one pitch at Smith. They are in new condition and sell for $99 usually. I was hoping to get around $70 for them plus shipping. I live in Bend OR if you want to pick them up. PM me if interested. -Sam
  5. Solo TR Setups?

    Christoph- one of my partners who does rope access work uses a shunt for solo TR. He likes the redundancy and non-toothed cam, but he has to pull slack through the shunt by hand. That's the downside. It does work though.
  6. Solo TR Setups?

    Several people on MP's thread for solo TR have recommended using a CAMP lift. It seems pretty similar to the Petzl microcender. Does anyone one have personal experience with the Lift? Would it be likely to have similar problems to the Ushba? I was contemplating using a Lift and a Microtraxion so that I had redundancy and one cam-only device with one toothed cam. Thoughts?
  7. What Are Your Favorite and/or Best Climbs?

    Also, as my list #3 indicates, I need more ice/mixed/alpine experience. I have a week off in late March and would just like to put it out there in case anyone needs a partner or would be willing to provide some mentorship in exchange for beer and a belay slave.
  8. What Are Your Favorite and/or Best Climbs?

    Going to the Bugs in August if everything works out... B-C is my #1 objective but I'm not sure if my partner and I will be fast enough to tackle it. We did Backbone/D-tail in 19 hours car-car last August. I know I can move fast on moderate terrain and snow, and I know he can climb all pitches no problem, just not sure if we can keep up with each other on our non-strengths and avoid taking the dreaded bivy gear.
  9. What Are Your Favorite and/or Best Climbs?

    1) Have climbed. Exum Direct (car-car first trad lead) Complete North Ridge on Stuart Jeff Park (winter solo) North Sister (winter, stormy weather) Tenaya-Matthes-Cathedral solo linkup 2) Capable of but have not climbed. Torment-Forbidden Traverse N Butt on Terror Beckey Chouinard on S. Howser Regular NW Face on Half Dome Evolution Traverse 3)**Want to climb but need more experience or to climb harder.** Polar Circus North Face of Mt. Alberta Ragni Route on Torre Super Canaleta on Fitz Roy Slovak Direct on Denali (why not set big goals?!) 4) Admire but will never climb. 5.14 (I only climb 5.11 right now, but I'm tryingg not tto set limits) A4/5 scare fests (I'm fine with C2) double corniced ridges (hopefully, but you never know where you might find yourself )
  10. Tieton in March?

    I have a week off in late March and thought a road trip to the Tieton for a few days might be a nice break from school. I've never been and I'm wondering if it can be warm enough to enjoy camping and climbing that time of year. Obviously the weather will determine things ultimately, but is it worth making tentative plans there or would it be a waste of time?
  11. Hyalite in March?

    Just curious if Hyalite is still reliably in during late March?
  12. Where-to in late March?

    Wanted to plan something for spring break in late March and would really like to ice climb. Wondering if anything in Hyalite or Canmore is still in by that time? Jasper? Should I just go alpine climbing instead?
  13. stress fracture? bored as fuh

    So I think I have a stress fracture... still. Long story, had it in a boot for 7 weeks, took it off like a jumped up idiot because the dumb doctor couldnt get me in for an MRI for two more weeks... Anyway, I need something to take my mind off climbing. Its prime season at Smith and the good alpine routes are coming into shape and I'm staring down the barrel of another couple months or more of fawk all. I'm in grad school so I'm kinda busy but still need something to break up the homework and endless BS. I know this is spray... entertain me in my self-pity and misery you hopefully healthy assholes!
  14. stress fracture training ideas

    Yeah I got a little crack in my metatarsal... I have a hangboard at home and access to a gym. Ideas? What should I work on? My first goal was 100 pullups, I did that last week. Now what? My life is meaningless without some sort of exercise
  15. stress fracture training ideas

    so finally got in to see the specialist, diagnosed with acute tendonitis of the peroneus brevis. negative on all fractures, which is a relief. cleared for boring activity like lap swim and stationary bike. hopefully a month or two of aggressive ice massage and good activity will get me back towards normal. kinda crazy this thing went so long without getting figured out.
  16. stress fracture? bored as fuh

    Thank you gentlemen... I have now dabbled in almost all the above listed activities (no details). Just saw a foot specialist after 3+ months of minimal activity. The official diagnosis is now acute tendonitis of the peroneus brevis which is impinging itself and getting all pissy and inflamed. Glad its not a bone thing, but basically cant do sh1t except ice it hard and baby it. Possibility of surgery down the road if it doesn't improve... I am cleared for all boring activities, in-line, low impact motion in supportive footwear on even surfaces (no hiking, climbing or running), only boring stuff like stationary nike and swimming...
  17. Trip: High Sierra (Yosemite & Palisades) - multiple Date: 6/15/2014 Trip Report: A cc.com user posted this past year that soloing 5.6 was like jerking off with a noose around your neck. If that's the case, then this trip was a copious expression of my sick fetish. Here is the itinerary with links to appropriate blog posts with pictures and details: 6/12 finish work 6/13 drive to Reno 6/14 drive to Yos and hike Mt. Hoffman to acclimatize (class 1-2, ~7 miles, 10,800ft) 6/15 climb Mt. Conness via the West Ridge (II 5.6), approach over North Peak Pass from Saddlebag Lake, see blog: Mountain Mischief 6/16 rest day, climb NW corner on Lembert Dome (2 pitches, 5.6) 6/17 Tenaya-Matthes-Cathedral Linkup: climb NW Butt (II 5.7) on Tenaya Pk, traverse Matthes Crest S-N (III 5.7), climb SE Butt on Cathedral Pk (II 5.6), see blog: MM 6/18 rest day in Mammoth Lakes 6/19 hike up North Fork of Big Pine Creek to Palisade Glacier 6/20 climb Mt. Sill via the Swiss Arete (II 5.7), see blog: MM 6/21 rest day in Reno 6/22 drive home 6/23 start grad school Total: 6 routes, all 5.6 or 5.7, over 12,500 ft of climbing on 5th class or 3rd+ with you-fall-you-die consequence. The biggest problem with the High Sierra is that everything is perfect for doing big days. You have easy approaches and descents, perfect weather, solid rock, lots of moderate terrain... but every time you look around the view is so awesome that you just stare at it for minutes. Then you get to the next ledge and you feel compelled to take yet another panorama with your camera. It makes it really difficult to cover all that awesome terrain at a reasonable pace. If you manage to spend less than 15 min per hour photographing its a frickin' miracle! Gear Notes: gear for anchors and rapping (110ft tag line), but never used it Approach Notes: Guide tennies, no pons (shoulda had em for the Palisades)... approaches are relatively simple, short, and easy in the Sierra.
  18. [TR] High Sierra (Yosemite & Palisades) - multiple 6/15/2014

    Sloth, there are a ton on the three blog posts I linked if you want to check those out.
  19. stress fracture? bored as fuh

    Yoga sounds hard when you can't stand on one foot. Kayaking sounds fun though. I have some friends with kayaks, maybe I can borrow them for some spins... winter kayaking sounds hard core, maybe even more fun than alpinism in a blizzard! Gene, I would love to build something, used to do that a lot, unfortunately we rent right now so my options are limited. Maybe I'll make a crack machine and invert it for some campus-roofclimbing. I was thinking about a road trip to the coast too... I'm sure some vitamin D deprivation will really speed up my bone growth
  20. stress fracture? bored as fuh

    Maybe I should start to meditate... then I can amputate my mind from my lame body. Oh wait there are other ways to do that
  21. stress fracture? bored as fuh

    Yeah I know. Normally my other go-tos would be running, skiing, biking, and hiking... all of them are out. I've been watching Netflix but too much screen time turns me into a grouchy zombie :: . I have also been tooling around on the guitar but that's kind of like climbing on sharp crimps... you can only practice so much before it just becomes unpleasant. I've been cranking out pullups on the hangboard too... but again you can only do so much (got a pretty bad crick in the neck when I did 102 last week). My wife gets a gym membership through work so hopefully I can swim and bike a bit as this gets better. Anything worth doing outdoors that only requires one foot?
  22. For those of you who may be down at Smith this fall and like to climb on the basalt of the Lower Gorge, there is now a 10m extension to Gruff (classic 10a crack on Wildfire Wall). Local climber Matt Farrell got the FA. I checked it out this weekend. It still goes at 10a/b and involves some easy ledge climbing past copious birdsheet, followed by a really fun overhanging hand crack and layback to chains. Apparently you can lower/TR with a 60m but only have a couple meters to spare, we used a 70m. A #2 and .75 camalot protect the crux nicely. Matt posted a comment about it on the Mountain Project page for Gruff. He refers to it as Gruff Plus (lame name but its his call)... http://mountainproject.com/v/gruff/105803718
  23. [TR] Dragontail - Backbone 8/16/2014

    Trip: Dragontail - Backbone Date: 8/16/2014 Trip Report: Chris Sepic and I drove down from Bend Friday to tackle the Backbone. I had wanted to do this route since I first saw a photo of it and Chris had a similar desire. I won't spray all the details as there are a bazillion and a half TRs on this thing, I'll just give our impressions and a brief summary. If you want a complete story and pictures check out my blog... Mountain Mischief Our estimate for the route car-car was 12 hours, definitely wishful thinking. We left the car at 5:30 am and reached Colchuck lake by 7:00, there is a small tongue of ice and snow we crossed to reach the 4th class ledge system. The rock was wet from the rain the day before, especially down low. Chris led the OW, we opted to bring doubles to 3 and one 5. He wished we had a 6, as does apparently everyone else who goes up there for the first time (see MP). This took us a long time and the next pitch was also slow with wet rock. After that we did a couple more odd pitches and then blasted into a simul block to the base of the fin. I linked pitches on as much of the fin as possible but it is definitely longer than expected. We reached the summit after 7pm. The snow field descent doesn't require pons or axe if you hit it in sun, but it was just a little slick in places when we got on it. Neither of us had been down Asgard, we thought we were on the right track, but definitely weren't. The light left us about a quarter of the way down with no cairns in sight. Awful knee bashing on loose rock (maybe from that rockfall Blake and Jens heard a couple weeks ago? or more likely that's just standard, either way, we were way too far skier's left next to Dtail) went on forever. We didn't find the proper cairns until within a quarter mile of the trail. Eventually we made it back to the car at 12:40 am. Overall fun route and we had a blast despite the descent. Gear Notes: doubles to #3, one #5, bring a #6 if you aren't super confident on 5.9 OW, 70m rope allows some serious linkage on da fin. Approach Notes: no pons or axe req'd
  24. [TR] Dragontail - Backbone 8/16/2014

    Thanks John, nice to meet you and Loren. I've enjoyed your TRs for a while, Chris and I were actually just talking about your Hyperspace TR on the drive up there. I appreciate the compliments but we've got a long way to go before we're on the level of "ancient" guys like you!
  25. [TR] Bugaboos - Beckey-Chouinard 8/18/2014

    Thank you for saying what we are all thinking, so that we can further justify our elitist attitude, and feel awesome about our lives, and our lack of nice cars. I say this with sarcasm but secretly mean it with the utmost sincerity.