bedellympian

Yeah, so good!

Yeah, seems like his suggestion of trail work and re-vegetation, coupled with a public apology would be enough. Still, I get the importance of making an example of someone so people take things seriously. Still, seems like there are much worse things they could go after.

https://www.timberlinelodge.com/conditions#webcams I think it will be fine with an early start and the cooler temps forecast later this week... if they materialize.

Agreed, but in this case I suspect an editor who lives out of state and doesn't care or know anything about Bellingham?

It's not local journalism when a rando in Phoenix gets tossed a few bucks to write up something they have absolutely no clue about.

Full disclosure: I have not been on Luna or done the traverse to East Fury. However, based on other experiences in the Pickets, my first thought is that as snow cover melts away and choss/scree is exposed the ridge becomes a more appealing option. But that could be off-base.

You didn't go into her bedroom and ask her to dry them for you at midnight? 😂 JK Hope you made it up to her? If not maybe consider rope gunning up Hard Mox on the next rainy weekend! 😂 Sorry, can't help myself. Glad you got out Lucas!

Looks fun but won't work for me this year. To clarify some things in the hopes of attracting some partners for you... looks like multiple pitches up to mid-5th but nothing harder if I'm reading this right? Grades are UIAA? Over 7k' of vert from just below 10k' to 17k' summit? Honestly sounds like a rad adventure.

Trip: North Sister - Thayer HW Trip Date: 05/18/2025 Trip Report: Went out to North Sister on Sunday 5/18 to have a look-see in mediocre weather. I was excited to see some ice hanging on and forming up from this past week of weather. I played on it a bit but most was sun rotten and delaminating. It will all be gone quick once the sun comes back out. Skiing conditions were pretty terrible due to wind packed pow over old frozen sun crust and wet slide debris and some rock sharks too. Though I did talk to two splitboarders who went over to the SW side of the peak and found consistent wind-packed powder in a bowl. Here's some pictures... Thayer HW area Cool little pillar... bigger than it looks and solid but the top out was pretty terrible. Second pitch above the pillar... gross delaminating ice... downclimbed and did some gross scrambling up snow covered choss to the L Looking down on the Thayer Cirque from near where I was able to traverse to the main gully and descend. Storm cell over Broken Top on the hike back to the car. Gear Notes: Sneakers for the approach, skis kinda pointless in the conditions I found, tools and pons for ice, bringing a rap cord to escape via bollard would have been smart. Approach Notes: Pole Creek TH

Some of you might be interested in this guide... Central Oregon Rock

How old is your son? Post us some pictures and dad beta!

Hadn't heard of it but just looked it up. Looks great! Would love to see a TR of good scrambles/hikes/camp spots you do.

So you're sending the Troll Wall on a weekend right?

What are you doing between the volcano alpinism season and Squamish?

The Bowron looks cool! Where and what are you hunting in AK?

Anyone got any trips or goals for the summer season? Let's share and get stoked! I'm going to spend a week 2nd half of June with a good partner. We're going to see what the weather does before we pick a location... Rogers Pass, Canadian Rockies, Tetons, Cascades are all on the radar. Then hoping to either go to the Sierra or Darrington for some (very different) granite climbing later in the summer. Hopefully a couple family trips with at least some scrambling, kid TRing, and hiking too.

I talked to that guy at the TH. Wild story. He was on a splitboard.

Right! Definitely many inspiring lines for jungle alpinism... seems like it would be pretty F'd up though!

Trip: Kauai North Shore - Kalalau Trail Trip Date: 03/28/2025 Trip Report: Went to Kauai for spring break... no climbing... what a bummer. At least I got to hike some cool terrain. Would highly recommend. Only had the morning so I went light and fast. Only made it 9 out of the 10 miles out before my turn around time... I had to meet the family at a beach (tough life)... but this did get me to the ridge overlooking the Kalalau Vaslley, which is where the end point is. Trail was very rough and couldn't run very much. Once the sun was higher, heat stroke felt like it was just around the corner. Last 2 hrs were rough and once I reached the Ke'e beach I stood under the rinse shower for 5 minutes with all my clothes on and chugged a liter of water much too fast. The permit system is a little difficult to navigate, you can book 3 months out and need an overnight permit to go past Hanakapiai creek. I lucked out and snagged a pass a month out. The permit system does make it very nice once you're in, as there are very few people around for such a known and beautiful trail. There are lots of tour boats and helicopters showing the wealthy and lazy around this side of the island. It's pretty annoying in general. However, it was ego tickling when I was running a particularly exposed section of cliff and some guys in their boat tour a 100m off shore started cheering and chanting. Here's the pictures... Big plants Big cliffs Exposed trail... still nice and shady on the way out Wild goats... combined with the vegetation and the volcanic rock and it's basically just like the Cascades. Count the tour boats More big cliffs Looking back, rugged terrain More big cliffs, oooh pretty light And even more big cliffs Looking back out / big cliffs redeux Kalalau Valley Exposed scramble section... felt very chill but there were some seriously sketched out hikers Beach recovery... water was too warm to ice bath... pity Gear Notes: Trail shoes, snacks, lots of water and electrolytes. Approach Notes: Ha'ena State Park shuttle from Hanalei. Book your permit online 3 months out.

Yeah, doing some basic mountaineering training like Gene said would be pretty smart. For Rainier and Fisher you should also have your crevasse rescue systems dialed and glacier travel knowledge. That said, if you spend a day practicing self arrest and another day practicing crevasse rescue you will be fine and should be able to do all of those routes no problem if you've been cruising around the High Sierra already. Since rock climbing is something you're already experienced with I would not shy away from routes with more of that in them, but it sounds like you want to spend time trying the more snow/glacier type routes and build that experience. Other glacier mountaineering objectives to consider besides Rainier and Shuksan... Baker, Adams, Glacier Peak, Olympus. Honestly I would just pick whichever one is closest to you and try do multiple routes on it. Rock(ier) routes to look at that still have some of that... Southern Pickets like Inspiration have a good little glacier to get across, other routes in Boston Basin. Don't get too locked into specific routes. If you have a chance to go with a solid partner or get on the right type of terrain, just take it.

North Sister is the only one I mentioned that could use a good 4wd to access the Pole Creek TH. I have seen a prius do it in summer, but not sure what it will be like early May. Not like FS is going to have lots of people and budget to clear downed trees and grade roads this year.

Any route with steep snow will have avalanche hazard if there is fresh snow or sudden increase in temperature. That said, if temps are consistent for the days before and no fresh dump, then spring usually leads to a very stable snow pack. I would consider bringing light snow shoes for PM low angle snow portions. Some recommendations based on what you've said for further South, which may be where the weather takes you... Shasta - Casaval Ridge Theilsen - standard route North Sister - S ridge, standard route Jefferson - S ridge, standard route Hood - South side or some of the Devils Kitchen Headwall variations Will your rental have high clearance or 4wd?

Hey Kevin, You should define "moderately technical" for you. Also, some more specifics regarding grades, and "intense endurance events" would help people get a sense of where you're coming from. I assume you are not on skis? What's your plan for flotation? Month of May can be a mixed bag but the rental car and willingness to drive all the way to Shasta will mean you can definitely find plenty to do. Usually most experienced people are still skiing the bigger mountains but some drier side, south facing and/or lower rock features will definitely be climbable if it's not raining. You can always turn to cragging at Vantage, Smith Rock, etc. if it's raining in the mountains. Sounds like you want to spend time in the mountains more. Are you flying into Seattle? Portland?

Climbed ice this weekend in Eastern Oregon at 2200'. Looks like it will melt out this week if it hasn't already. Anyone else get the goods during this latest cold snap?

Can we just make one of Jason's pictures a sticker?