
pcg
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Everything posted by pcg
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Very good article. Thanks for posting. I guess that depends on your point of view and how much risk you choose to take on. Some of his lines are still in no-fall zones. Too ballsy for me, and my kids are grown. Best piece of information in the whole article... "Saying NO is the most important tool in your avy kit."
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On loose snow conditions as in the video it may not be possible to self arrest, but because one is on skis does not prevent you from dropping down and planting an axe. Butterfly knots in the rope might help as well. It does make you rethink the whole roped up/suicide pact scenario though.
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And this ticking thing you speak of... are you counting the traverse as P2 or the crux and slabs as P2? Where exactly should one be wary? Thank you sir.
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Some mellow scrambles with great scenery: North Hidden Lake Peak (the peak north of the lookout) Pinnacle Peak Also mellow, but need crampons and axe: Mt. Stuart Cascadian Couloir Ruth Mtn. For 4th and easy 5th look here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1078599/Re_Suggestions_for_4th_easy_5t#Post1078599
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I use one micro-trax on my sit harness with a little bunjie pulling it up to a chest harness made from a sling. This makes it ride up the rope easy and also it keeps virtually all the slack out of the system should I fall. I hang my pack on the rope to make the micro-trax follow up the rope instead of creating slack. Falling amounts to hanging. I used to use a second micro-trax for backup, but it was too much clutter. I always clip into backup knots on the other strand.
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Don't PM me. All I know is what I saw on CL: http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/laf/4200630072.html
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I have both packs. The 45L brain is larger.
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http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=10009.0
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The rangers at NCNP seem especially prone to this mindset. Maybe its time this underutilized park was returned to the people and withdrawn from the national park system? (Not a suggestion, just a thought for now.) It should be obvious that park rangers are following orders from above. I suggest you take the time to get to know some of the NCNP rangers before you make comments like this.
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...and is Lone Fir campground open. Some NFS campgrounds are closed and apparently it is dependent on the concessionaires.
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Any word on whether Lone Fir campground will remain open?
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I remember finding a hole that appeared to go way down under Sandy Glacier many years ago on a cold October hike from McNeil Point to Yokum Ridge. My feeling at the time was I really wanted to explore, but I also thought it would be a terrible place to die when something collapsed when the glacier moved. I didn't and still don't know enough about glaciers to know where and when it might be safe to go under one. From the pics in the links above some of the tunnels appear to be fairly stable, i.e. they don't show signs of annual shifting and cracking. On the other hand I can imagine that quite a bit of water might be flowing through on a late summer afternoon. I'm a long time caver/mapper from years back, but I don't have the expertise to determine when it's safe to explore this system. I want in if a group gets after this... I know one option is to join Oregon High Desert Grotto.
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Rainier National Park closure effective tomorrow
pcg replied to TobiasT's topic in the *freshiezone*
So... if NCNP offices are closed and I can't obtain a backcountry permit, and there are no rangers on the trail to issue tickets for camping without a permit... -
Rainier National Park closure effective tomorrow
pcg replied to TobiasT's topic in the *freshiezone*
NCNP has no gates for rangers to lock and unlock. MRNP does. If the gubmint shuts down at nidnight then the gates at MRNP will be locked. -
[TR] Mount Elbert, CO - NW Ridge 9/22/2013
pcg replied to Fairweather's topic in The rest of the US and International.
While living in CO in the 70s I had a roommate who was bc skiing on Elbert in 60s or early 70s when he came upon a group of skiers all decked out in white - white jackets, white pants, white skis, and... white rifles. Also, they appeared "foreign". I can't recall all the details, but when he got back to the parking lot there was an Air Force Academy bus parked there. He never did figure out what exactly was going on, but I recall the general consensus was that the U.S. was training Tibetans for some special operations somewhere. It's true that it's a pretty mellow lump of a mountain with an easy ridge ascent, but it is also surrounded by serious avy terrain. The town of Twin Lakes, at the base of Elbert, was basically wiped off the map by an avalanche in the 60s. -
In my opinion they shouldn't, but the fact is they will. Have you never left webbing, even though you'd prefer not to? If bolts will improve safety and at the same time get rid of crap scattered all over the mountain, then it would seem they are the best solution. Hangers with rap rings would be visually less obtrusive and serve the same purpose.
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Ditto above except on 8/14 there was snow beginning about 30' below the col between LB and Concord Tower looking down the east side.
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Patagonia/ South America this fall/ winter
pcg replied to ClimbHigh253's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Option 1: Bariloche and the Frey Valley If you are heading north and want to dirtbag you can't do much better than hike up to the Frey Valley outside of Bariloche and camp just uphill from Refugio Frey. It's a granite playground with a lake for swimming and dozens of spires with many routes rated 5c (5.9 YDS) and under. In particular Aguja Frey (immediately in front of the refugio)has a lot of easy routes including the classics Diedro de Jim and Sifuentes Weber, which are both rated under 5.9. Ruta Normal on the tallest spire, Torre Principal, is all low 5th class until the last pitch which is 5.10a and short and bolted and easy to hangdog if you aren't feeling it. With the exception of this one pitch on Torre Principal, I believe everything else in the valley is trad. All belay stations are bolted with rap rings. The rock is solid and grippy, the views are spectacular, the people hanging out at Refugio Frey (Bosco and Federico are the proprietors) are great. January is the busiest month. Lots of climbers and school kids on vacation from Buenos Aires are hanging out there. Jan is too hot to climb except in early AM and the evenings. Refugio Frey info: http://www.refugio-frey.com.ar/ Online guidebook for Frey Valley: http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/freycatedral.html If you go to Bariloche don't overlook the multi-pitch trad routes on Cerro Lopez, up above Bahia Lopez, about 25km west of town by bus. The approach is scrappy (choss and brush), but the granite gets better the higher you go. I had no partner for this so didn't do much more than drool. The Palatinos route is a fun scramble up the north ridge of Cerro Lopez. Here's the online guidebook for the immediate Bariloche area: http://www.barilochevertical.com.ar/Escalada_1.html Cerro Tronador is a good objective if you want a moderate snow and ice climb. I didn't climb it for lack of a partner, but I think other than traversing a glacier and placing an ice screw or two for the final mixed scramble to the summit it is a fairly easy technical climb. Both guidebooks are available in hardcopy form at Club Andino in Bariloche. You should go there first and get maps, ask questions, etc. If the tourist office has no one knowledgeable or if you are getting the tourist runaround go outside to the Club Andino office door on the street and knock on the door. There is usually someone more knowledgeable upstairs. PM me for more details if you have questions. Option 2: www.cochamo.com I've never been here, but lots of people were talking about it... -
Are you referring to using a picket for an anchor to belay or rappel, as opposed to running pro? If pro, why the knot and why the locker?
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...and don't panic when you see the signs on the east side saying (incorrectly) that Hwy 20 is closed 15 miles west of Winthrop. It is indeed open to MP 157, just west of Washington Pass and Blue Lake trailhead.
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I've never used a quilt, but I'm considering for my next purchase... http://www.outdoorgearlab.com/Ultralight-Sleeping-Bag-Reviews
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best of cc.com [TR] Slesse Twice in a Day - 7/15/2013
pcg replied to marc_leclerc's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Wow! I really enjoyed this. One of the best trip reports ever except would love to see more pics. -
Snow / terrain conditions for Mt St Helens or Adam
pcg replied to Topoftheworld's topic in Southern WA Cascades
Monday, July 8... on south side, snow starts shortly after crossing RTM trail. There is running water at bottom of Crescent Glacier. No more after that, including summit saddle, so you'll have to melt snow. Excellent corn from summit on down. Beginning to suncup, but not bad riding after it softens. I went through LC at 8:30 and it was already softening. No runnels yet. At 1:30 PM it was still nice at bottom. -
I'm guessing guide or not, not everyone in your party is in shape for this and those that are are barely so and not going to enjoy it. Head up to Barrett Spur instead. There is far less risk to manage. As long as you stay away from the steep slopes where you don't need to be, then there is no possibility of someone slipping and dying or getting seriously injured, as there is on south side Hood. You will be walking on snow much of the time, but won't need crampons or axes. The views are far better than you get hiking up to the Hogsback. You can start at dawn instead of the middle of the night. If the weather is as warm as is being forecast, you can hang out on the spur and listen and watch as Coe and Ladd glaciers groan and Mt. Hood slowly sheds rock and ice right in front of your. Spectacular. No guide necessary. Enjoy. Have fun.