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Why waste a cam when a well-placed rock will do? I'll cast the first stone. This video reminds me of the guy that posted a video of himself weaving in and out of traffic at high speeds on a motorcycle, then got busted when the cops used the video as evidence. Last I heard, Mt. Stuart was still within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness and drones were still mechanized craft.

+1 agree so K = Knots in rope or Know that the rope is long enough.

So sorry to hear of this. I’m not big on acronyms in general, but I made this one up for myself. I’ve taught it to my son and everyone else I’ve taught to rappel. I consider rappelling to be the most dangerous part of alpine climbing (like swimming with sharks in the water) and therefore it demands extra vigilance. I go through this drill every single time I rappel, in order as follows: S Safety leash – make sure it’s properly secured H Harness –verify that it is properly secured A Anchor – verify that it is properly built R Rappel device – load it K Knots at end of rope S Safety leash – Ok to remove now

My calves are aching just looking at this.

The warthogs work great in gorge dirt and choss, especially if you equalize them with a bush or a sling around some moss.

It is easy. I think you're missing the point. It's dangerous.

or these guys... http://ohdgrotto.caves.org/

Are you aware what climbing gear sells for in Argentina? You could probably put an ad on the wall at Club Andino and sell for double what you'd get here. Or better yet, sell for same price and make a lot of local climbers happy.

I should mention that a shortcoming to the SP is that it is not designed to be used on ropes smaller than 9.8mm in diameter. This is another reason for me to not use it in the alpine because in addition to the weight of the SP I also cannot take a lightweight rope.

OFG would be a good sounding board for you. I wouldn't wait until November. If you have pics then give them to them now and forget about it for the summer. Let them look them over and if they're interested they'll get on it and do a first class job of presenting it, as they did the ice caves on the Sandy Glacier. If they aren't interested then next November you can prepare a presentation yourself for another venue. Also, I wouldn't abandon this board as there are many helpful folks and lots of useful information here. Just ignore the noise that seems to rise to the top.

Not willing to unload the SP yet. It works well, meaning it spins and spools out rope just fine and won't short rope you, and the couple times I fell on it on purpose (from backyard tree with my son belaying me from another rope for a backup) it caught me. I've never fallen on it otherwise, but I'm pretty conservative when lead climbing and climb mostly easy routes where I'm confident I won't fall. Re. the prusik... I assume you mean you are still pre-tying a clove hitch (which might short rope you) and sliding a prusik along to catch you if you fall close to your last pro? I wouldn't trust a prusik alone to catch a fall. Unless you keep it will-dressed and tight and close to your body, it can fail to catch and slip and melt in the event of a hard fall. Also I have seen people use thin dyneema slings for a friction knot which increases the likelihood of this happening as it melts at a lower temp than nylon. Thanks for the TR. I've thought about rope soloing CT when the crowds are on SEWS and LB, but figured it was too many pitches for me to do in a day. Nice work.

I think first you might consider that there are likely a number of interesting geologic sites in OR that are known, but not revealed to the public. However, given that it is in a wilderness area (and probably roadless) and in a drainage (hard to access in OR), there is a better chance that you have discovered something new. How exciting either way! I would contact Oregon Field Guide first.

Great idea. I started off using a clove hitch then went to a Silent Partner. I've ended up hardly ever using it because it's so damn heavy and clunky, although it (in theory) prevents you from falling any farther than twice what you are runout, and have since gone back to using a clove hitch. I like the idea of adding a screamer.

Although not in NCNP, Mt. Stuart Cascadian Couloir route does not require a partner and is a few hours closer to you.

Keep in mind that Spectra has a low-melting point, compared to nylon. Since I always try to stack things in my favor I never use Spectra in a friction knot application.

Tvash has a special coin. When he flips it, the probability of it being heads is 49%. Rob has a normal coin. Prior to this event, however, Rob has flipped his normal coin 99 times and gotten heads every time. Now, you are given the following dilemma. You must pick one of them to flip his coin for you. If it’s tails you must jump off a cliff into a huge vat of boiling oil, while Ivan recites the Beowulf thing. If it’s heads, you live to post another day. Who do you choose to flip for you?

...or when you finally realize how stupid you've been to have been all caught up in stylin' tele when AT gear works so much better; it just doesn't look cool.

If you already have an ice axe with an adze, then I would suggest buying a used hammer for a second tool. That way you have something to pound in pickets or even the occasional piton. The Petzl Aztarex is worth a look. Later on you can add the Aztarex adze if the standard ice axe isn't cutting it for you. These aren't extreme ice tools, but if you are just climbing moderate stuff, like me, they are lightweight and work well.

Does that hold for flat screen TVs as well?

Over a thirty year period I have only seen them twice near my home and both encounters were nearly identical. I'm driving along a road in a canyon near my house and here's this little thing about the size of a large gopher crawling around in the middle of the road in the middle of the day. I stop the car, get out, and walk up to investigate. As soon as I'm a few inches away the little guy attacks my shoe and clamps his teeth onto the sole. I dragged him, hanging onto my shoe, off to the edge of the road and slung him into the bushes with a brisk kick. I was told by ODFW that these guys get "in the rut", so to speak, at certain times of the year, and think they own the world and will take on anything and anyone. According to ODFW they are also partially responsible for attracting mountain lions to our area in the winter. The lions come up tributaries to local rivers (Willamette Valley) to search out and snack on these guys.

Actually I don't believe you do. The summit and the approach from Ulrich's and Cascadian Couloir are not in the permit zone.

I have used that combo on 8.9 rope and it is OK, but it is hell to pull on a 10+mm burly rope.

Will this work?

Yes, that certainly is the prevalent attitude among amateurs, and from that perspective Jeremy Jones is conservative. I think all the pros, both skiers and shredder dudes, are far more conservative than their videos portray or that their viewers imagine. The Recco video “Whitebook” is a good one to show kids that think they are immortal, as is the sobering “A Dozen More Turns”. As for me, I’m happy to stay off the snow when it’s not stable, and to avoid no-fall zones. Life is good enough near the edge, without having to get on it. I do thank the young’uns, though, for showing me what I never thought was possible, and, in the process, expanding my own boundaries a bit more. I am continually amazed by what young people are doing today. Thanks again for posting the video - I learned from it.