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Torre Principal, Frey Valley, Argentine Patagonia

So explain why no one yet makes rock shoes for wide feet...

My recollection is the French guy skied Wy-East face?

Dan Helmstadter and John Plotz have done it... http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=966443

Torre Principal and the Frey Valley from summit of Cerro Goye, Argentine Patagonia.

I can't think of a caption for this, but I was astounded when I found Emilio, the Refugio Frey cat, several hundred feet above the refugio on Aguja Frey, lording over Frey Valley, Argentine Patagonia.

Great video! I’m in Bariloche now and have made three trips to Frey so far so I really enjoyed your video, particularly since I was able to recognize routes I’ve climbed. What an amazing playground it is! I will have to say it is largely wasted on me since I’m a beginning trad climber and most of the climbs are beyond my abilities. That and lack of a climbing partner forced me to hire a climbing guide, which was worth every penny - both for the great experience he provided and for all I learned from him. I’m getting pretty good at finding the easy stuff (f5+), but pickings are slim in the Frey Valley for those grades. I recognized the view of Cerro Tronador and Puntiagudo (from the summit of Torre Principal?) as well as Diedro de Jim on Aguja Frey. Great style on the fisura! I was unable to climb that splitter without keeping my right leg out for an outrigger, to keep from barn-dooring to the right. Then it looks like you were on the Sifuentes-Weber route on Aguja Frey after that? Since your video was made all but one tiny patch of snow in the valley had melted by early February as most of January was very warm. The lake is now so low that the refugio can’t make hydro power so no lights at night. It snowed briefly last week and more is on the way so the days of lounging around shirtless at the refugio waiting for the mid-day heat to pass are gone. I'll second the "really cool vibe". I’ve had a great time hanging out with Frederico, Bosquo, and Nahuel, as well as Emilio the Frey cat and all the visiting climbers at Refugio Frey. Thanks for the video. I have no way to make a video so it serves as great documentation to remind me of the fun I’ve had so far.

I had a blustery wet day off and was able to trick a buddy into a "fun adventure in the Gorge". Vivian supplied two wheelbarrows and we made a mad dash to the top, followed by a crazy harrowing trip down with overloaded top-heavy wheelbarrows. The loads were so large we had to alternately back down and then go forwards because we couldn't turn at the switchbacks. Great fun was had by all.

I've been trying to resist responding to this post, but I have something to add that someone new to mountaineering should consider, especially if you have checked off "navigating in a whiteout" as something you think you can handle. In my experience you cannot navigate safely in a true whiteout in an alpine environment. On a flat surface with no hazards maybe, but in a total whiteout, when you can't see your feet, you can become so disoriented that vertigo sets in and your brain will basically lose its reference on life as you know it, making it even impossible to stand without falling. This is a terrifying experience. If you are in a cold stormy environment, then hopefully you have the mental fortitude to keep it together and the skills and equipment to safely hunker down and wait it out. Trying to travel in a whiteout with hazards around is dangerous. Even if you were on ZigZag snowfield below Crater Rock on south side Hood, and your altimeter told you you were safely well above ZigZag Canyon and Mississippi Head, you risk falling into a blow hole or falling off a three foot wind slab. Either could result in serious injury simply because you can't see where you are falling. IMO this guy would have died had he not called SAR, so calling SAR was the right thing to do at that point, from the standpoint of ensuring his own personal survival. Had some SAR personnel perished during the rescue effort then you could second guess that decision. There is no question he made several mistakes that got him to that point. Re. GPS, I have one and seldom use it, but when I've used it I was glad I had it. I consider a non-electronic map, compass, and altimeter to be mandatory. I regard GPS as an emergency device to fall back on if I should become disoriented. If I become disoriented I have made a mistake, so I regard GPS as a "fix" for doing something I shouldn't have done. If you stay oriented to the terrain and you are familiar with the terrain or have a good hard copy map, you will not need GPS. If you are unfamiliar with the terrain and are staying oriented to a map on a GPS then you are traveling on borrowed time. Oh yes... I'm grateful to have survived my mistakes w/o calling SAR or being hung out to dry on CC.

I had a great experience with these guys: https://threesistersbackcountry.com/education/

Since no one else will say it I will... safe practice is to NOT rope up on a steep slope unless you can place reliable pro. Pickets will be next to useless in new snow. It is not very likely you'll be able to catch him if he slips on a steep slope, meaning he will pull you off and you both will go for a ride. This is an oft-repeated tragedy on Mt. Hood.

I got in the habit years ago of using a snug wrist leash when on steep slopes. It is certainly a hassle if you have to change hands. I try to always keep my axe in my right hand, since I am right-handed, so I try to avoid traversing up and to the left, and look for routes that allow me to traverse up and to the right or straight up. Obviously - you can't always do that. I'm sure someone will point that out (I already have) and comment that route finding should not depend on which hand you like to hold your axe in. Well, for me it does. If I have to change hands I do, but I try to optimize things so it is always securely in my right hand with pick facing out. The reason I like my axe in my right hand is that I am right-handed and feel more confident self-arresting in that position. The reason I like it leashed up snug in a self-arrest position is because self-arresting can be a fairly violent and scary procedure, with the possibility of the axe being yanked out of your hand when the pick grabs. If you don't do it immediately you are toast. I want to be as prepared as possible. Years ago I slipped due to dull crampon points and was able to self-arrest, bit it was a scary experience and a wake-up call for me. Now my crampons points are always sharp. Like lead climbing, the real solution is to never fall (or slip if on snow/ice). My conservative nature, however, still wants my axe as ready and as secure as possible in my right-hand, always ready for immediate self-arrest. It is a hassle sometimes, but it makes me feel more comfortable. I think the correct answer depends on your experience, how you climb, and what makes you comfortable. If I was more than an occasional recreational mountaineer then I suppose I would grow more confident and change my ways, but I'm not and I haven't. I don't climb often and I don't climb hard. I just climb for fun and I'm most comfortable with this arrangement. So.. different strokes for different folks. BTW this arrangement is for climbing with a single ice axe, not two tools.

When I follow my saved link to "Past 24 hours" everythng looks fine... but I just went to the front of the site where I normally don't go and it does indeed appear that something is not right...

I'm using Windows 7 Pro and IE9 and have no problems. I also use auto updates so both get updated every week.

I'm fairly new to trad climbing and am wondering why more people don't use equalettes. I used cordalettes until I read in one of Long's books that equalettes did a better job of equalizing. It takes a bit more fussing with getting knots in the right place, but it does give you more room for error. With a cordalette if you don't judge the load angle just right, or if moves, it is no longer equalized. Thoughts?

Unknown climber on Puppy Dome, Tuolumne Meadows, June 19, 2012.

Replace with aluminum, or titanium if you can find one.

The only thing worse is bushwacking through thick WET brush.

I agree. Best to go when it's all filled with firm snow. Take an axe for self arrest and crampons for when the snow is hard in the morning. I've seen large slabs of old snow and ice release from heated up rock slab high up on the Cascadian and come crashing down the couloir on a July afternoon. Just best to be all the way down by early afternoon.

Brand new, never used, $60 pick up in PDX, $70 shipped CONUS, Paypal or cash.

It has been cold and windy all week and the upper portions of Hood have probably received 2' of snow the last few days. This means lots of wind slabs will have formed. Predictions show continued snow Friday and Saturday with winds 45 to 50 mph during a warming trend. avalanche?

Gnarly trip! You rapped on 5mm cord with a bugette? Wow! I don't even like 8mm with a bugette and prefer a monster munter instead. How did you manage that?

For less money and three more ounces (12 vs. 9) the BD Raven Ultra is far more comfy on the hand.

I have the CG 45L worksack and like it very much. It is a great climbing pack for three days and 45L. It compresses down and is snug and stable when carrying loads that are not much over 45L. Based on your first post it fits the ticket very well. However, while it does expand to carry 75L, it is not a great pack for carrying a load that size comfortably for long periods of time. In other words, it is not great for doing double duty as a general backpack. It expands to be one tall narrow tube and you have to snug down the shoulder straps to keep it from swinging around. It does not contour and form somewhat to your body like packs designed strictly for backpacking. I'm 145# and just did a six-day trip carrying 50#. It was not very comfortable - had to tighten shoulder straps to make it stable and the straps cut into my collarbone. Hip belt was fine. I'm in Sherwood and if you want to try mine out you are welcome to use it for a couple days.

Just build cairns that guide folks away from loose blocks.