summitchaserCJB

A mix between a climbing movie screen play and Candide. Bravo.

Looks epic. I actually road biked from Lake Wenatchee to Monroe in about 4.5 hours last summer. That road can be pretty scary on a bike. I can't imagine what it is like in the dark.

"Perhaps I could start putting more of the reports here?"

Ya Windows 7 pretty much kicks ass. Makes you wonder why people pay twice as much for a comparable Mac.

[video:youtube]

Not that this helps.. ashfall map

hmm..Not sure I agree. I think overall it is safer with the better gear.

Ya, maybe you're right Joseph. I personally learned on passive pro at Index so I think I have a little more respect for protection than at least some people. Doing Roger's Corner with all passive gear is not something I'd recommend, but I have done it. I don't think most people who are trad climbing use GriGris. I could be wrong but I don't see it that often. And ya, the scene today seems much safer than the olden says. I am happy that is the case. And there are those out there that really don't know what they are doing with active cams and don't know what a good nut placement looks like.

So Jealous.

While I think your other advice is good I have a bit of a hard time with this statement. Are gloves a bad idea? No, but if there's any kind of "burning" going on then it's an improper belay from my perspective and gloves shouldn't be used to compensate for bad belaying. In drop tests an anchored GriGri will let a couple of meters of rope slip. Just imagine what happens with a tube device. rgold on stuportace and cockrhyming has been saying for years that hard falls onto the anchor are best handled with gloves and he's caught a couple. I've definitely found loose flakes that I thought were solid on inspection by tugging a cam. I find that giving the sling a wiggle to test for walking immediately tests any optimism that the cam will stay in that spot. Aid climbers vigorously bounce test pieces, why should free climbers just plug and go? If possible I use a few tests to convince myself that piece is good and that blind faith isn't keeping me off the deck. C3s go really small. What sizes are we talking about here? The margin for error with the little guys is terrible. My partner has a set and they are the last pieces I reach for although when they do fit it's a boon. True, but time can be of the essence. And the experienced leader should know a good placement by sight.

I never "set" cams unless I can't see the lobes or I'm feeling strangely sketched out.

Good thing I have aliens. I wouldn't know about that counter- I don't take many falls.

Or- Expect the unexpected. Good rule for riding horses. Works for climbing also.

I see Mark.

I'd be interested to hear the details of that study. If it was done in good rock, we might want to take up a different sport. There is a difference between "perfect" and "perfect looking". Is it a problem with climber's perception or are these actually good placements? Sorry to take this on from a research perspective but it's like second nature.

Looks like HDR.

Hope more flakes don't fall off the classics. Could change the LTW drastically.

wow. I saw the preview and was so blown away by how disgusting it was. Of course the doctor is German.

Sagittarius is the hardest climb I've ever done. I feel no shame about feeling pumped. I'm just glad I made the chains. I'm sure the next time will go better. Have to agree with flash (with respect to the climber). I've sowed up Roger's Corner so much it looked like I was aiding.

very very very true. I tend to push too hard too fast with injuries (and other things). Thank goodness I haven't had many serious ones.

I guess you die.

Mark and I went to Index today. Someone took a ground fall off of Roger's Corner (apparently they were on the second pitch and 2 pieces pulled). PS- Hope they are ok! On the way home a car coming headon at 40 miles an hour or more swerved into our lane, missing us by inches. The motto- stay safe out there. Stay alert. The climb doesn't end at the top of the pitch- as I learned today. I got to the chains at Sagitarius and grabbed the chains only to discover I was totally pumped worse than I ever have been. I literally couldn't hold onto the chains. So I tried to down climb and told Mark I was going to whip. I then let go and took the ride.

It is fingers. Alien sizes yellow and green and red.