summitchaserCJB

Heres to hoping it doesn't happen at all.

haaha was it a really thin crack? If so, why did you even start it. That doesn't look anything like 5.7.

Ya I wouldn't solo Royal Arches this time of year- too much water.

I don't see any (recent) TR's from WA pass. Just curious, do you have a different place you look for them?

Ya expect crowds. But you know that. Royal arches is worth it, IMO.

They are an all around shoe.

uhh...not trying to get in a fight here buddy. Aparently you are.

Thats funny, because most trad climbers I know use them. Learn something new every day.

To give a vague answer more rooted in past than present experience (I.E.- I haven't been up there recently), I'd say slow shoes are more useful this time of year than crampons. hopefully that is helpful. Not say that you won't possibly use crampons and not use snow shoes.

Sounds a bit...er...irresponsible to me.

La Sportiva Mythos is a great all around shoe. (get it small though) The anasazi slipper deal also works pretty well-I haven't tested it in the long run though but it performs well for a cheap shoe. Scarpa Techno is also a gem.

If you say so.

I'd say that is a bit, to borrow a term, regressive. 200 foot raps are conveniant. If you think there is no place in climbing for conveience, so be it. But I liked the raps. Just thought the spacing was wacko. And I'll admit, I didn't know that about the 50 years of no bolts. That does change things. I'll leave it to the locals to work it out (sounds like they already have).

Tim, what did you wind up doing over in Spain? Did you show the euros the American way and whack them off? ps, convenience bolt rappels are getting installed in the valley with no action from the locals (Royal Arches etc). I find it disturbing as it greatly reduces the commitment. Furthermore, there appears to be more accidents and sar callouts from idiots rappelling than before. That might be a function of more folks.... I can't make a judgment on these, as it's for you locals, including guys like Pope and Raindawg, to decide. Good luck! In reference to the rap anchors on Royal Arches. I really don't think it is my place to criticize as I've climbed that route just once. However, considering the fact that the first rap is 200 feet, it doesn't make sense when there are bolt anchors like every 50 feet down the head wall. I don't know who did that but it doesn't make sense because you need two ropes to do the first rap, why not space the rest of the raps at 200 feet? We sometimes passed two intermitant anchors on our way to a third. Whatever.

Well, you do have a point there. I also had more of a problem with squirrels. However, there was evidence of bears.

Well... I would. The bear problem is the biggest downside. Not that we actually spent any considerable amount of time in camp.

Off topic (sort of). When I was like 16 I was going to do dirtbag camping with some friends up there. We pulled off and were checking out a place and it looked good. Then my friend came up to me and was like, I'm going to tell you something but you don't want to know because it will freak you out. Then he told me there was a dead dog in the grass (it was getting dark at this point). We took off really fast and gladly paid the camp fees.

After staying at camp 4 for 5 bucks that does seem pricey. I usually don't stay in Lworth proper because I have other accommodations close by.

I had the same thought gertlush. I think that "we can see it from space" thing is a little dated.

Ya you have to try it Mark.

nice dude. I'm drooling.

I agree. Be honest with yourself about this one. If you take the time to learn the skills neccesary to be self-suffient, I reckon you'd have over all a richer experience.

hahahaha! I would be amped if I could 'free' it at all... true.

Just don't free solo it.

I did notice that. That is a valid argument against it. But it also is vague enough to encompass the subjectivity of danger, which was quite well demonstrated by the OP definition. If you read my whole definition you might reconsider. I don't consider placing a piece in a bad spot averting disaster every time. That said, it's just my opinion.