summitchaserCJB

Do you really believe what you just said? Please explain how compensating someone for their time is not paying them. When you are in someone employ, you are now partaking of a commercial endeavor. I still thing that this is RMIor AAI trying to smoke out some pirates. cough cough, there could be other...favors...cough cough. It is possible to compensate someone without paying them. Whether that compensation, whatever it may be, constitutes a violation of the commercial restrictions is up to the NPS or the courts if it comes to that. Sounds like a grey area to me. My 2 cents.

I was wondering where this was going to go. I kept out of it so as to preserve my stellar reputation on this site. And ya, the monopoly thing is so 2000.

"Then I guess I'm doing it wrong. I pull up with one hand, and maintain control of the rope with my other hand. I guess I'm just Old Skewl enough to always keep (at least) one hand on the rope. Haven't gotten out of that nasty old habit yet, even after all of these years... " I literally used an autoblock for the first time yesterday, and we practiced lowering, but the way your describing probably is the safest way to do it. I cannot think of how it could be less safe than doing the same procedure without the "extra" break hand.

Sounds like it's worth bringing to me.

What I disagree with is your disregard for the unexpected. Stuff happens outside. I admit I sometimes don't pay attention outside when belaying. But I try to keep that to a minimum. *shh* If you can stay sharp for 16 pitches while traveling over new terrain and having fun while doing it all the more power to you. Also, climbing with people who pretty much never fall helps too.

OK man. Someone needs their morning coffee.

Your hands won't catch a fall if they aren't on the rope. An autoblocking device will. It's as simple as that.

Wow Joseph. Ya, it is a tool. I admire your autonomy, but it is a little contrived if not delusional.

Joseph- Sounds like you haven't done much alpine climbing, where the multitasking is an ever-present reality. My thought is it is better to have the added safety of an autoblocker and pay attention most of the time than have a normal belay device and not be able to multi-task.

I'm surprised to hear people having problems with the guide rappelling. Admittedly my experience is narrow and deep rather than broad when it comes to belay devices. I've used an ATC XP for 7 years. I've never had problem rapping. If anything, with skinny ropes without high tension it can let you down a little too fast. Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the ATC xp and the guide were essentially the same when it comes to rapping.

hmmm, thanks for the beta. Want to try that route.

Jsham- I believe they are talking about cutting the switchbacks to the Sahale Arm, not Cascade Pass.

Yes Crillz. I don't know about what is left of it. It's possible to do TJ without pro over 4 inches.

Very inovative.

ya. My down bag is heavy but really warm.

hahaha. This brings up memories. I took a spontaneous trip up there, to do the Quieben Sabe Glacier. I took the trail up to below the Sahale Arm and realized I was way to far towards the wrong side of the mountain (I didn't study the trip description very well aparently). I then preceeded to go straight up towards the arm, then left towards the other side of the mountain. So yes, there is a direct way. Is it reasonable? Not really.

Food for thought. My Peak XV comes down well below the overlap so I'm covered with that jacket.

Good climbs. I've done em both. I agree with the 5.8/5.10b rating.

Better yet, what's the aid rating on the v0 boulder problem?

You tell me fender.

What about using it at 10,000 feet at Rainier basecamp? I've slept up there before a couple times but never with a halfbag. Is that asking for problems?

Good to know.

So I made a hardman half sleeping bag out of an old REI polarpod I had lying around. I haven't tested it yet but I added a drawstring so I can sinch it around my hips and add a Peak XV jacket to complete the package. I guess I won't know how close I can cut it until I try it out. Anyone have any luck with a similar setup? I can add pics if people are curious.