summitchaserCJB

Abucks- What do you think about the forecast. We're supposed to head up the Emmons on Thursday. I'm hoping to follow a boot path cause I don't want to break trail in 1-3 feet of snow! .SYNOPSIS...STEADY PRECIPITATION WILL GIVE WAY TO SHOWERS TODAY AS A WEAK COLD FRONT MOVES THROUGH THE AREA. THERE WILL BE A RELATIVE BREAK IN THE WEATHER TONIGHT AND TUESDAY. THEN AN UNSEASONABLY WET PACIFIC FRONTAL SYSTEM WILL BRING SIGNIFICANT RAIN AND SNOW TO MOUNT RAINIER NATIONAL PARK TUESDAY NIGHT THROUGH WEDNESDAY NIGHT. CLIMBERS CAN EXPECT ONE AND A HALF TO THREE FEET OF SNOWFALL AT THE HIGHER ELEVATIONS...ALONG WITH STRONG WINDS. SHOWERY WEATHER WILL FOLLOW ON THURSDAY...WITH DRIER WEATHER LIKELY FRIDAY AND THIS WEEKEND.

I'm not completely sure but unless it happened very recently I doubt it happened.

Have a group going late this next week. Probably the best weather day is Friday with a 20% chance of rain/snow. Sounds pretty bad.

I've had problems breaking into the 10's too but I mainly climb at Index and Leavenworth. This year I've really been working on and have sent Sag, Rattletale, Breakfast, ect. routinely. Have you tried these? If, not, I'd start with breakfast, then Sag, then Rattletale. I agree with much of what has been said- mainly mental, falls are more common. But I find the 10's super fun!

And so long as you put in gear timberjack is fine. I'd think twice about it though Mark. It's turned back more than 1 5.8/9 leader.

If you go to Index tomorrow you should do Roger's Corner. It stays dry in the rain.

Maybbbbbeeee cam. I'd not like to test that theory.

Ya I know. Unfortunate all around for sure. I know many films have been done without the use of much additional gear.

Dude glasko, if you're going to spray get the numbers right. It's 60 new bolts on top of 450 existing bolts. You can't blame Lama for the existing bolts. Cmon man.

To be fair, again David Lama: "The current status is that the project is on hold until next year. The entire shoulder and wall have been cleaned, except for bolts used for the production which will definitely be removed after next years attempt. "

"Cesare Maestri, who made the first ascent in 1970, left an entire highway of bolts and pitons in the mountain’s south-east face, which has nothing to do with today’s climbing ethics. Still, it’s improbable that more than a dozen climbers would have reached Cerro Torre’s peak if it wasn’t for that bolt-trail." -David Lama

Nice plug. My partner showed me that yesterday while climbing.

Do you really believe what you just said? Please explain how compensating someone for their time is not paying them. When you are in someone employ, you are now partaking of a commercial endeavor. I still thing that this is RMIor AAI trying to smoke out some pirates. cough cough, there could be other...favors...cough cough. It is possible to compensate someone without paying them. Whether that compensation, whatever it may be, constitutes a violation of the commercial restrictions is up to the NPS or the courts if it comes to that. Sounds like a grey area to me. My 2 cents.

I was wondering where this was going to go. I kept out of it so as to preserve my stellar reputation on this site. And ya, the monopoly thing is so 2000.

"Then I guess I'm doing it wrong. I pull up with one hand, and maintain control of the rope with my other hand. I guess I'm just Old Skewl enough to always keep (at least) one hand on the rope. Haven't gotten out of that nasty old habit yet, even after all of these years... " I literally used an autoblock for the first time yesterday, and we practiced lowering, but the way your describing probably is the safest way to do it. I cannot think of how it could be less safe than doing the same procedure without the "extra" break hand.

Sounds like it's worth bringing to me.

What I disagree with is your disregard for the unexpected. Stuff happens outside. I admit I sometimes don't pay attention outside when belaying. But I try to keep that to a minimum. *shh* If you can stay sharp for 16 pitches while traveling over new terrain and having fun while doing it all the more power to you. Also, climbing with people who pretty much never fall helps too.

OK man. Someone needs their morning coffee.

Your hands won't catch a fall if they aren't on the rope. An autoblocking device will. It's as simple as that.

Wow Joseph. Ya, it is a tool. I admire your autonomy, but it is a little contrived if not delusional.

Joseph- Sounds like you haven't done much alpine climbing, where the multitasking is an ever-present reality. My thought is it is better to have the added safety of an autoblocker and pay attention most of the time than have a normal belay device and not be able to multi-task.

I'm surprised to hear people having problems with the guide rappelling. Admittedly my experience is narrow and deep rather than broad when it comes to belay devices. I've used an ATC XP for 7 years. I've never had problem rapping. If anything, with skinny ropes without high tension it can let you down a little too fast. Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought the ATC xp and the guide were essentially the same when it comes to rapping.

hmmm, thanks for the beta. Want to try that route.

Jsham- I believe they are talking about cutting the switchbacks to the Sahale Arm, not Cascade Pass.