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Everything posted by Water
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nice TR! great colors before the clouds came in! ...
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I have heard it called the Polish Suffering Gene
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He said he's in much better financial shape and he is putting in notice that he is leaving. Unless you try to really game the system and put yourself up to have to pay all of UI back and face other penalties, voluntarily leaving a job means you are not qualified for UI. Read his follow up post, sounds like he is being more adult than a lot of grown ups.
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My experience has been that being out here is really important as far as showing a potential employer you're ready to be their person--though I've heard of plenty of cases of people accepting a job from afar, it seems like for entry roles lots of places get calls from out of towners looking to get in. I wondered if nursing would be different since I am led to believe it is an 'in-demand' area of employment, but seems my hunch still held true (somewhat surprised). good luck! and yes, at some point, just move out and you will find a role in due time!
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i really liked Van der Waals... but probably too obscure of a name. and van der sloot besmirched the 'van der' aspect. well on the 'about us' of the page there are a bunch of names and pictures. not sure if that is employees or sponsored or what but whatever, got someone who did a cool route on the black spider up there.
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So ultimately interesting discussion but I am not sure the blog/social marketing assistant at TNF gives a rats ass nor could be expected to delve into the minutiae of this geographic area when they're told "Hey, heres the bio sheet on the K4 climb we're sponsoring, make a post!" btw there are no comments on the blog post, so if you want them to learn and report the correct info you might start with sharing the geographic expertise with them there.
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in fairness they did say grab a beer OR CALL US. It is plausible they would be open to discussing your questions but don't feel obligated to respond to the demands of every armchair-internet 'but i play one on tv' lawyer who seem a little more 'out to get them' and aggro than coolly asking if they can elaborate. I imagine a polite phone call to discuss it because you are genuinely concerned about CE certification, misrepresentation, ethics, etc may be answered with more direct information. That said, yes, the situation sure reads shifty and it would be nice to see a clear presentation of facts (or of their version of the facts).
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callem the "Van der Waals" which is kind of a funny play on words since they'll be on vertical rock surfaces.. 'waals'.. throw the name in google to draw the connection to Geckos!
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you may be correct about the latter but surely I did not take the photo. they presented this endeavor for the forum to enjoy: Mt Hood in early September I am just saying if your job was renting/selling the gear, is there some line where you may discuss what they're going to do with it? or No? I guess, maybe its just a job so who gives a rat beyond your paycheck--that is a fair approach too. No I don't care personally what those bozos style is, though as a compassionate human being I would not want to see them needlessly get hurt or needlessly place SAR crews in harms way due to questionable judgment. but i don't climb mt hood in august and september so I wasn't there to positively interact with them. btw i have enjoyed your petulant style since you have started posting, you're quite the iconoclast.
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to the original topic was it best form that nobody who was selling or renting anything to these bozos said anything? if you'll recall that report, that is 6mm static utility cord, tied with a noose to either end, with quick-draws from belay loop to the rope (pretty sure just clipped loose for the middle folks). wooohoo! from my tell of it those look like REI rentals. there must be a line somewhere with speak/discuss what they're doing with what you are selling/renting. these folks were 'surprised' they had the 'summit' to themselves at 10am on a late august morning on hood.
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i think the suggestion was that you could meet someone through there, not join them. for instance, here in portland I have met some good people to climb with through the mazamas, without going on mazama climbs.
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PUBLIC MEETING WEDS 2/2/11: RAINIER CLIMBING FEES
Water replied to MarmotMountain's topic in Climber's Board
correct, and sure, toss out any the ski related buildings & silcox. a bit pedantic perhaps to call out those two hovels, but to say there is no structure on any of the other mountains.. not true. additionally right at treeline more or less, you've got tilly jane cabin (in wilderness area and fee-based). I generally agree with cascadeclimber that it would be nice to know what the long term goal of the MRNP climbing program is. More visitors? safer? less environ. impact? more consolidation of users, etc...or whatever combination and weight the importance of each. I'd be fine with no buildings, personally. -
PUBLIC MEETING WEDS 2/2/11: RAINIER CLIMBING FEES
Water replied to MarmotMountain's topic in Climber's Board
for the record Mt. Hood has at least 4-5 permanent structures above timberline, 2 of them are in wilderness areas. 1 of them for paying customers of Timberline inc., though you can pop in there if you need. I'm on board with poop facilities/blue bag barrels for heavy traffic areas, no matter where, volcano or forest--it just makes sense. That or you limit people (already in conjunction with feces mitigation) -
yes--if inversion isn't too warm up top and you'll talk my manager into giving me more vacation. have fun
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[TR] North Sister - Ski Circumnavigation and Ice Pictures 1/20/2011
Water replied to Billy's topic in Oregon Cascades
very cool, love seeing any N. sister action. thank you for sharing and reporting. pics of N. sister? curious on route what elevation/how far north did you cross over from linn glacier area over towards collier? i assume up to the saddle between n. and middle, then ski down hayden towards soap ck. approx RT mileage? this type of touring def. keeps me motivated to keep learning to ski.. cheers -
You can get this action just a bit north of cleveland! delicious from cleve: 8~hr to adirondacks 4.5hr to central PA appalachian stuff (must be some crags there..)
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I'm not in your area but want to say you come off as prepared as possible and ready to go out with someone more experienced to be challenged more and learn. more than can be said for what seems like 95% of the people who pop on here saying 'I wanna mountaineer!, teach me!". good luck, if you were in pdx area id be down on trying to figure some hood action. cheers
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best of cc.com [TR] Lake Wenatchee - AK47 12/12/2010
Water replied to IsolationedSnow's topic in Central/Eastern Washington
first of all screw you bucketz i already took those bolts out, better luck next time and yeah i got the second ascent, it sucked cause im short and i basically broke off all the holds -
Primaloft seems the general standard for synth insulation Nano puff comes in pullover variety for weight savings Thermawrap is good (its what I have) and feels quite warm to me but empirically doesn't rank as highly for its proprietary insulation (exeloft or whatever) can't speak to the Arcy Atom but am pretty sure it costs an arm and a leg. haven't heard anyone poopoo the 1st ascent stuff from EB really, mostly solid reviews people seem satisfied for what they pay for. I haven't compared all these but I am going to take a stab and say that the Igniter is the warmer and heavier of the two and Serrano the lighter, but both will be 2-5oz heavier than their Arcy, Montbell, or Pata cousins for equal size. depends on how big of a deal it is to you but for instance I have pata gift card and could get the puff pants they make right now, but am waiting for a coupon for the EB 1st scent Igniter pants even though they are a few oz more because i trust the quality is on par, warranty sure is, and I'd rather save the $50-80 difference an care less about the oz for something that has a limited life span to begin with (synthetic fill).
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friend of mine did sw ridge in something like 24hr window last summer i think.. got in friday afternoon/eve up to a bivy site just above trees on sw ridge. up in the wee hours summit around sunrise, back down same route to car before evening saturday. think sw ridge or milk creek will be fastest i have heard that the traverse melts out completely.. but didn't north sister not lose all it's snow this past summer until extremely late, if at all? maybe I am wrong. to me those traverses are similar, tho north has more of a cliff right below it.. jeff didn't seem as extreme, my 2cents. in early october 09 the south ridge had not a lick of snow along it and there was maybe 1-2 foot of mushy, not icy, snow, along the traverse from red saddle-probably newish after a previous week's dusting/storm or something. with strap on cramps, ice ax, and tennis shoes--could be done by anyone with confidence in their abilities.
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2009 BD Sabertooth with Lowa Mountain Experts 42 sorry for crappy pics notice no rattles or shifting. Center bar firm. 2 front pegs and rear plugs are jammed against the sole with no play, though small gaps visible between sole and crampon. Next time after wearing them in-situ for a while I'll take a pic-my recollection is that the minor gaps are eliminated after a bit of walking pressure--most of the time I have to unstrap, unbail, and absolutely pry/kick them against something to get them to pop off. to me it seems a great fit
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I have considered an avy beacon in general although I do not bc ski at this point at all. that said, preparing for the rare and not the common-if an avy beacon is warranted by the chance of an avy--everyone should carry one along the dog route on hood, worms flow on helens, ingraham on rainier, etc.. but surely people don't. do climbers in himalaya, ruth gorge, denali bring/use avy beacons? definitely see plenty of evidence of avy in any mnt terrain but doesnt exactly come to mind on gear lists/shots i've seen. additionally if you've got an avy beac you should know how to use it, which = plenty of practice. At that point should you have enrolled in an avy 1 course? Following that to its conclusion, is avy 1 course and full beacon usage and knowledge a preq. for climbing s. side hood? when flotation is needed seems like a good rule. additionally when there is a bootback and flotation is not needed vs off the bootpack it is... thus you should have a beacon? or such that in AM you don't need flotation but by PM things are soft and flotation is desired? I'm no expert so I'd love to hear more feedback, thanks for posting that mp link. PLB, cell, avy beacon, camera.. any more electronics one should carry? GPS, Ipod... haha
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mazamas lodge right in govy camp. dirt cheap, bunk style housing, access to shower, internet, fireplace warmth. basement room has a fridge i think and drying area for wet clothing/you can mess with your gear down there. there may even be a few of the smaller rooms that sleep 2-7.. if you require that. ~$17.5 - open to the public. think you can piggyback some meals on too. http://www.imbueid.com/fmi/iwp/cgi?-db=Mazama&-loadframes
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the main difference also being I cannot recall the last time Ivan shared such views as he led a campaign rally attended by thousands or spoke these views as a commentator on a national news program and went unchecked and supported by his political peers with the same level of national prominence.
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most gyms have a bulletin board for people looking to sell stuff or find partners. You might ask the staff there about this, or if there isn't such a board, you might start one--there are probably some folks at the gym that are looking for someone to belay them as well. good luck, happy climbing!
