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Everything posted by Water
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posting for a friend. STOLEN: Dynafit Denali Skis (184), TLT Superlite Bindings (green), BD Whippet and Pole. The thieves got into my truck last night near SE Steel and SE 45th. If anyone sees these for sale anywhere please PM me.
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except for everyone and their uncle once you get to pikers (won't see anyone).
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Dumb Hood Question: What exactly is Queens Chair?
Water replied to plurpimpin's topic in Oregon Cascades
by verbal definition, the relatively flat area that is at the junction of leutholds, yocum ridge, sandy glacier HW. -
yes, sorry for screwy formatting
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i popped over and took a look this afternoon. sorry to be contrarian ivan, def some bergs cracks to be mindful of. i've actually never seen it filled in completely, high snow year, low, etc, december, february, april, seems like there is always a gap or two open.
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cannot give recent beta but have been up a handful of times. generally don't need it if you're comfortable on steep with a single ax. however, if you aren't, it might be cheap insurance for the weight of a 2nd. I have never encountered conditions (spring or winter) that required a second tool, personally. The hourglass can have some ice or rime around it but nothing crampons and an ax can't manage and above and below have been just typical snow steepness like the old chute. Though I'm sure under the right conditions it can be icy as all getout. my advise, watch for any bergschrund gaps of the reid glacier against the headwall.. and know the route, in the dark..or even light it could be easy to veer right too soon, or veer left once you're on the right path. But if you're half capable you'll be fine. I guess a good rule of thumb would be, if you find yourself up against anything vertical, you're not on route. enjoy the break at queen's chair, nice little spot. wish i could get out on saturday..
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i too was happy about that. for a moment it felt like when i first found this forum and it was non-stop fun.
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Wilderness First Responder vs Wilderness First Aid
Water replied to Bronco's topic in Climber's Board
yes, that's eagle scout training kicking in. IMO WFR, unless you're a doctor/nurse and bringing with you a good 5-10lbs+ of first aid gear isn't most of it really coming down to if you get hurt bad back there, you need emergency rescue/extraction in X time or you're dead? I took a WFA about 5 or 6 years ago and my take away was that I could do CPR if someone stopped breathing, assess if they had a head injury, and maybe splint broken bones. But me and a partner, they fall and break their femur. Okay, keep them warm, splint it/traction, maybe a pain killer (haha), and what, even in the forest in ideal conditions it's not like you'll drag them out. You need help ASAP. Let alone high angle. If there is no possibility for help to come, it's the best WFA and ummphh to get them somewhere marginally safe--you're up shit creek. Which doesn't detract from those who are WFR+..doctors..etc who maybe can help with more complex injuries, but the short and sweet will still be that people need emergency extraction and it is unlikely short of being negligent, that a doctor vs a WFA person is the difference between life and death for a lot of conditions. Maybe i tell myself that because I don't have the bandwidth to become a doctor.. -
it's funny to see this come up (I asked it in 2011) and was told 90-100. I had hunted old posts and saw in years before and saw people say 90-95. Now you've got plenty of 105s, hah. One thing when you mention coming down the mountain... to clarify your objectives, if you are doing skimo on volcanoes primarily and the enlightened method of descending (sliding, whatever form it may be) vs touring looking for good conditions. And you mention spring conditions--you talking like coming down Adams or from Muir in June? If that is more what you are thinking, I'd give a nod to the narrow side. My first skis are g3s 94mm underfoot. And my second are hagan cirrus at 75mm.. I use the hagans year around for climbing Mt. Hood and love their versatility. Only use the wider skis for tours or resort. That said, early rise tips def help a lot. my 2cents
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i prefer april, assuming you had good weather. but you are perhaps slightly more likely to have good weather in later May. Warmer for sure.
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Full setup for someone if they wanted to get into BC skiing Boots (26.5 garmont axons), $25, free if you buy the rest, if you want them. G3 Saint, stiff great ski for skimo, not all too heavy. 94cm underfoot. $150 alone. Have had one base conditioning on it, never any core shots. diligently waxed/cared for. topsheets have some scratches. with cut to size G3 Skins (plenty of plush but glue looks dirty-holds well) $225 Have radical ST bindings but from recall I was sent FT heel pieces (~DIN 14) since that's all they had in stock, so you get a more burly heel. With bindings $500. Make offer if this seems unreasonable.
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i think will be ok for pole creek th.. hopefully
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: glad to hear it!
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bump, anyone been up it recently?
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or adams. or mt thielsen.
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good luck, love seeing you follow up with your progress. Success stories are good to see because the internet is filled with people complaining about why they're medically broken from conditions, and has way less people talking about how they recovered from issues. Enjoy the glissade!
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i will 2nd/3rd/4th this.. I mean I stop climbing in May because the mountain starts to open up and unload more, and I've been playing on it all winter. But when I'm seeing these TRs for southside for late July and people talking about climbs in weeks ahead it's kinda 'wtf' - this mountain gets gross and done up high. there are greener climbing pastures to be had elsewhere.
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depends on what you are looking for in prime. personally I find March-April to be perfect for climbing on Hood. That assumes you've got a weather window. Plenty of daylight, temps cold enough to keep things together, and the mountain is gorgeous plastered in rime and fresh snow. And less crowds. May probably prime month among the hordes.. I stop climbing it mid-may more or less, earlier depending on the snow year. Rock starts getting visible and streaking the snow, the snow around timberline starts getting pretty foul (for skiing down). But I'm biased since it is a backyard mountain. While it would be interesting I suppose, I've never once even thought of climbing in late June or July. Greener pastures in the NW.
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i count a minimum of 3 routes from pamelia lake TH..
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Should be more than enough fuel, the reactor is a champ for sipping it. And will you really do full boil of 4 (12) liters a day? Seems high unless that's 4 per the group. In which case two canisters. I think they get something like 30 liters boiled per canister.. Also highly recommended aquamira for water treatment over iodine, unless you're set on iodine. Aqua Mira will take a few minutes but taste is negligible and will make it pleasant to hydrate IMO.
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hmmm..any advice.. training and gear tips etc.. training: simply exercise - do your best for your body. Eat a balanced diet and do stretching, cardio, and weight training (or some type of resistance training)-don't need to bulk up. Sure there are super dialed in training regimens for aspiring and limit-pushing alpinists, but for Rainier and Denali I personally would say they are almost irrelevant. You won't be moving light and fast--almost all of what you'll be doing are slow and slogging. gear, you'll have to dial in a few key things and come back to alpinism or here with specific questions. I don't think you'll get a good list of the 'best' pully, picket, rope, ascender, crampon, goggles, glacier glasses, hat, etc to buy. If you're the researching type as you say you'll get those narrowed quick enough and at the end of the day as long as what you have is compatible (ie rope diameter and pully size, crampon size fits boots great, glacier glasses fit your face well, etc) it doesn't matter so much beyond that. With your size you'll need to figure the boots available (will be limited) and also spend a little extra time investigating crampons-you'll probably have to buy extension bars as by default many likely won't go that large. One rec I can give is for automatic crampons (not hybrid or strap). They're a hell of a lot easier to get into and i find the fit preferable, even for sloggy stuff, imo. But your boots need to have a toe welt for the crampon bar.
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this fucking site won't let me make a reply beyond a few sentences.
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skiing the spur? it gets pretty tore up with rock fall. here's a link to someone who skied snow dome 6/25: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=36604.new;boardseen#new
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i tried to casually mention (as best as possible) it/ask why roping up without pro to a politically conservative poster here who climbed hood with his brother a few years ago and posted video of being roped in the old chute. But wow, that did not go over well.. really went ape shit..
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western mountaineering ultralite with overfill. that thing is pretty damn light, feels so soft, and is very warm!