Water

diepj: kind of agree with you, I eye'd that picture and really had trouble placing those two. But I think queens chair is maybe just to the left margin out of frame, well above the hourglass--my experience has been to veer north/harder climbers left to get to the 'flat' and then go up ridge, but for continued challenge one can kind of climb the headwall bowl thing (which is what it looks like they're doing...)

well contrary to wildsnow's write up in late 2013, the BD 'carbon' whippet upper is aluminum still. just the lower is carbon. to clarify. The picture above appears to show snapped aluminum. they still sell a two section aluminum one for $99 what weighs an ounce less than the 3 section 'carbon' (that's only 2/3rd carbon at best). unless you really wanted a 3 section pole not sure why you're disappointed with BD.

bump! Lets get jgary re-united with her splitboard!

I too have been impressed by the amount of action it got, kinda cool to see it get climbed ~simultaneously from almost every angle. There were no tracks on cooper's upper top out when I checked and took a pic of it around 10AM (posted in my PG TR).

Nick, It's on the North side (climber left) of the N. Fork ck. Coming from Pamelia, we crossed to the N. side of Milk ck on the PCT, then went up stream, possibly crossing a time or two more, before veering off north. The 'trail' was before the N. fork milk joins the south. You got that right about waterfall-death gully, hah. I probably will never go directly up the gut that way. I have read too many TRs about heinous experiences-no less than 6 or 7 waterfalls undercutting the snow, goats kicking rocks down from cliffs to the south, and ever present hazard if something high on Jeff let go. There were some great pics a few years back from some monster avy debris piled 20ft+ high well into mid or late June at the PCT crossing. I suppose if you hit it fast during the right time it is super direct. That N. Fork way keeps one free of any undercut snow/rock fall..and most avy hazard as it tends to ride up closer to the avy-scoured tree line than down by the creek itself-it would take a monster release to get you--though looking around the evidence is present it does happen.

gotcha. hah, well the one time I've made it to the top was in october. Only had to contend with snow at camp down by shale and coyote lakes and then on the traverse from the red saddle over to the west rib. Though I've climbed the west rib to about 500ft shy of the pinnacle (june, got too hot/slushy, bailed). That said the north fork of Milk Ck actually has a climbers boot track that at least in june had flagging. It wasn't bad really, just a short rough/stout hiking trail that involved keeping a keen eye between obvious sections. My take away is I would love to ski the majority (maybe not the upper-most section) of the west rib if it was in good shape. thanks for the questions answered. congrats on getting high on jeffers none the less, not so common this time of year.

thanks bud! you too. They will be up soon.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Pearly Gates right chute Date: 1/31/2015 Trip Report: Hadn't topped out since I hurt my foot in late 2013, though I had been to the Hogsback a handful of times in the last month+ Felt good to finally get up. Pearly Gates climbers right 'gate' was quite easy. One team retreating from the left gate said they didn't go for the right one due to ice fall. My usual mountain modus operandi tends to be in my head, conservative, and retreat instead of advance if in doubt. However above the berg I kept assessing the ice I saw falling and none of it had velocity really right at the narrows of the chutes. It was only after that when it picked up speed. I only saw small pieces (softball max). I just had a very strong gut feeling about what I saw so followed that intuition. There was perhaps a 5-10ft section at 45ish degrees which was tiered with old steps, and not overly icy. venom picks went in all the way to the head in consolidated snow, and I had not a worry about my alu crampons. One or two higher foot steps and I was through. When I first moved into it I did get about a 30 second deluge of spindrift..but more like icepowder as it has not snowed in ages..and bits the size of marbles. filled every opening on me--I was emptying snow from my pockets 45 minutes later at the Hogsback. But other than that, after about 10ft it opened up, ice risk when to zero. There was a bit of a clear-water ice crust, very thin, above supportive snow. again full confidence with alu pons. descended the old chute as fast as I could. A lot of ice fall seemed to be climber caused, and the chute had a fair number of folks on it. I don't intend to criticise but if someone needs two technical tools with umbilicals to climb the old chute maybe they should re-assess their objectives. My little 2cent soap box, too many people spending way too long exposing themselves to ice roulette under sun-laden rime towers. Spend more time getting comfortable on steeper snow with less objective danger above. Especially when traversing from the bergschrund over to the old chute. was putting on skis when saw the two roped folks fall. When I saw them get air and I about lost my lunch. I had just passed PMR not 10 minutes earlier. It was fortunate they were just hanging at the hogs and to the fallen within a minute. Wishing good healing to them. ski down at 10:45-11:15 was icy and chattery but functional enough. Had a deadline below otherwise would have helped out up top/things would have softened into afternoon. sorry no pics of the gates. Cooper spur looked good. Morning: Hogsback (and PG right) Amigos going for the PG left..retreated Cooper Spur Looking good Summit Beer Photo Ice conditions on upper 200ft of Mnt. Skiski Gear Notes: alu crampons. 2 venoms. whippet and venom. or even standard axe probably would have been enough. Approach Notes: skis

winter jeffers ascent? wowza. Congrats. How was the summit block? gear used? Sorry for 50 questions.. but few more. West Face.. did you go up milk creek/n. fork climber trail? And thus ascent the gully to the north of the West Rib? Ski down same gully? From pics looks almost like you went up from woodpecker ridge TH.. that's an interesting route I wonder..sticks to a ridge the entire time from a TH... cheers!

^this. depending on what demographic you are talking about (and I will attest to at one time having purchased such (and subsequently sold)) a more aggressive tool than I have ever needed. More than once I have seen people with equipment that is entirely overkill for the situation. Sometimes this seems to be driven by 'it looks cool' more than anything. Dual ice tools and umbilicals going up mt hood's old chute? Seen here (lookers left of guy with red backpack). While someone else uses a trekking pole and a standard ax.

Has anyone been on Luetholds in the last month? petsfed: go up the south climb. it is busy, you compromise on that point. But it is easy and hopefully be in shape..assuming we get more snow. I would not touch lueth in june. Unless Ivan's TR called to you, then I would touch it a lot.

bumpity bump bump.. Saw some folks heading Luetholds way last Sunday (1/25/15).. might have been too warm to execute but curious if anyone has been off that way in the last week or two or three. eternal debate in my head of full glacier accouterments for travesing 1500ft (or whatever) of upper reid. Well, the debate is yes, bring it.. but I hate having pickets, rope, and shiz for the other 90% of the route which doesn't require it.

really at a loss for words.. immense appreciation and awe you shared, it is humbling and makes one pause in the best of ways. The lessons learned are distilled and should forever be in mind by anyone who has read them pared with the gravity of your injury.

Oregon has a lot.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Cascade_volcanoes

I believe so, but you'll need to do more research. Matt Bedrin with Skiing Cascadia was on a mission to ski them all in a year. I know he did a handful of them for sure but then frankly he appears to have disappeared off the face of the internet more or less after being active in that pursuit. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-11655-matt_bedrin.html

mahalo was good to see you guys up there. (us group of 3 drinking beer, me taking beer pictures, my amigo digging your shirts)

beyond spectacular! On this list for this spring but that's just something to get after it this time of year. late night getting back to the car delirium can almost be fun, after a few days have passed..

throw 2cents out there.. Only can speak to Lowa but I really like the pair I have from them, the Mountain Expert. Would love to replace them with a new version, after 5 years they are starting to go. Find them to be great for Cascade peaks you speak of. step in compatible. Cheaper and just as functional as Weisshorn--you probably won't be doing much in the way of vertical ice climbing on the mentioned peaks if you're new to climbing. it's 7/8th shank Looks like it is in stock size 13-14 http://www.rei.com/product/866158/lowa-mountain-expert-gtx-evo-mountaineering-boots-mens

pete, you're quite the skier, please understand I defer to your more extensive background but i'm curious if you could elaborate more on the lessening of camber and how it may relate to gaining edge hold when scraping down something steep vs railing on groomers? My understanding is part of that holding an edge is not having too much side-cut, but also having some camber too. that voile vector looks good. You've got your split for the fun deep days, really any weight you can bleed off your feet = performance gains. You specifically called out volcanoes, I do think something 88-90 would overall serve you better than something 100+ would. unless you pony $ for the lightest fat skis they're still going to weigh more than something smaller. not to mention the skins on them. To answer your question you've basically got it about better grip up (smaller area of skin=more contact/pressure). And yes you would not want a ski tons skinnier than your boot but that would be into skimo race ski width (60mm) which i would not recommend as an all arounder. this is a great link: http://skimo.co/light-is-right

olymntboy was spot on with bit of tip rocker, and some normal camber under foot. Not sure I can speak to tail rocker as much but a little upturn at the back can be good for slip-sliding which as maybe a non-expert skiing you will do more of. the best volcano skiing, reliably imo, is in the spring-summer..you can easily get by with 75mm underfoot for that. That said. The 'fatness' of the ski if you go find a post from 2-3years ago people will say 90-100, now people say 100.. hopefully that is the top out. Maybe it's being more oregon centric but we don't get 2ft of blower powder.. i have a friend of your stature+ who runs 78mm underfoot and powder skis here on hood and he hoots and hollers with fun the entire time. Never seen it hold him back a bit. Has run those same skis off the top of about every volcano as well. More often than not in the NW you will be dealing with a lot of variable snow, esp. year round on volcanoes. Personally I think do not be afraid of something that is 88-95 underfoot, that ~5mm diff is not a make or break and it can save a lot of weight, depending on budget and such. That mm underfoot was spoken of as a fat ski 5-7 years ago. Smaller ski width = smaller skin area = better grip and less weight too. additionally if you are to hear arguments about what is 'easier' to ski on breakable crust and such should almost summarily be thrown out imo, because that just absolutely blows in the first place--you don't buy a 2ton pickup as your daily driver because 2 times a year you need to move a bed frame.. so.. 88-100mm underfoot, slight to moderate camber, bit of rocker/early rise tips, bit of tail rocker or upturned tail rocker optional. for your height probably 176? you could get by anything from 170-183 probably just fine.. 170 maybe a bit small but easier to deal with too. maybe you can plop $40 at a local place to demo some things--I did that before buying, was a bit helpful for sure--for instance I found a volkl nanuq great but dynafit manaslu squirrely. If I recall that came down to the nanuq having more camber, easier for a beginner skier to wield. not sure costs but both these weigh great amounts, the carbon synapse looks damn good frankly but the zenoxide might be a bit more of a workhorse and be easier to ski while you're mastering the craft? anyone feel free to correct me if i'm mistaken what I've relayed, i dove into bc skiing a few years ago so i'm no pro. http://www.genuineguidegear.com/gear/skis/zenoxide-carbon-93 http://www.genuineguidegear.com/gear/skis/synapse-carbon-101

Ben, For sure there is no quick and safe of jeff. When flanks and glaciers are solid the pinnacle can be unprotectable rime. A friend used a bollard to rap off the top once.. oh boy I think the least technical way might be the S. Ridge as that gets you to the red saddle. If the traverse is melted out, then one could technically climb the mountain without ever donning crampons or using an ice axe. It is never more than 3rd class (? occasional use of a hand?) to get to the red saddle by that way. I've not seen/heard of someone attempting via west rib/milk ck without snow cover but guessing it is not nearly as 'safe' as the s. ridge in that regard. Though it does by-pass the traverse. I've taken a stab at the west rib up through milk ck--didn't top out (very very hot day..things got soft too quick, should have left earlier but it wasn't possible due to schedule). There is a solid climbers path that veers to the NORTH milk ck drainage before it enters the main stem of the creek. (that emphasis for anyone who might ever read this..as I see reports of people go right up the gut with less than thrilling results as it is a horrid terrain trap from natural and goat induced rockfall on either side, stream-undercut snow/bridges, and massive avy run-out exposure.) Scared have you ski descended it? as we came down I thought how beautiful much of the lower rib would be for a ridge-line ski descent..in the right conditions.

great before/after shot between yours and scaredsilly. had you posted this TR without the caveats and invite for crit I don't think it is that terribly damning at all--nobody would know your background (or lack thereof) about glacier travel. August on JPG yes is probably out of season (just as about any glacier route on Jeff..whitewater might still go?) but it isn't stupid crazy (like NF hood in august) imo. I simply enjoyed the TR and the pics of Jeff-some of our non-hood Oregon 'canoes don't get enough TR love. After this trip guess what isn't brand spankin' new to you anymore? Glacier travel. Just keep after it and those skills. Continue to glean information from your sources and test as necessary (ie...do you prefer ascenders to prussiks, like to use a self-tending pully or to throw a biner in there to keep it clear, etc) At some point if you don't have a person to learn the glacier stuff from you've either got to pay for a guide, a climbing intensive, or wade through a lot of nonsense in a basic course from one of the non-profit climbing clubs to gain a few glacier travel morsels of information--or you do what you did, at some point the theory and book learning gets applied. Being as you spent a full day before scouting/practicing, what more can you do. All things equal, the very best training for an activity is actually doing the activity, everything else is just a substitution of lesser adequacy. How did the CR practice go, did you feel like setting up a simple Z rig worked with two helping up top and one down in? I do agree with what SacredSilly said about getting after it earlier. Unless it is all rock, get on that snow under dark, like hitting the berg at first light. But given your glacier background maybe truly the more prudent choice for ya'll was to wait for light to step foot on the glacier. one comment, absolutely up for debate, looks like ice axes girth hitched to harness (can't see for certain)? Maybe just did that to secure them during a rest break (smart). But I see that done lots in general. Makes it easy to change from side to side depending on uphill slope. I don't know there is any official consensus, unlike that your crampons should fit securely to boots, but i personally have misgivings about having an ice axe tethered to my core. In the event of a non-arrested fall, I am not sure i would gain control of it while secured there any more than if it was attached around my wrist. Maybe on my wrist it would come off in an uncontrolled slide? it could still come in proximity of my head but i'd like to think my arms would be outstretched? Somehow being so securely attached to my core it seems like in an uncontrolled fall it becomes an uncontrolled weapon bouncing, impaling around my most vital areas, until one would stop. maybe at the end of the day it really doesn't matter, if you're in a fall like that in the first place something or someone fucked up. cheers

this was fun. good game fairweather.

Big Mitch, It is certainly true the road closes due to weather at times. It is much too long to go into here to explain. But suffice to say the weather is absolutely not the sole reason the road stays closed/doesn't open/doesn't open in time. Read up if you'd like to know more. http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=26113.0