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mostly yes... by the fact that non 4x4 owner drove to top-spur trailhead last weekend...

Heard from hiking people that the road is gated 6 mi. Or so from cold springs. Thinking by whatever trailhead (stagman?) That is where the road takes a hard right and goes uphill..

i would second cooper spur as a great route--if i didnt have plans this weekend I'd be looking at it. seems like last monday's slabs have stabilized with the steady warmer weather we've had the last few days. as for danger of the fall line, that is year around.

There is escape either between 3 and 5 or just above 5, as the first time I climbed Luetholds in 09 our party went up through 2 or 3 and spent time screwing around off route. Pretty sure we cut over above 5 because I kinda of remember going behind that really phallic gendarme just to the left of the #5. Popped out above the hourglass but below queens chair.

diepj: kind of agree with you, I eye'd that picture and really had trouble placing those two. But I think queens chair is maybe just to the left margin out of frame, well above the hourglass--my experience has been to veer north/harder climbers left to get to the 'flat' and then go up ridge, but for continued challenge one can kind of climb the headwall bowl thing (which is what it looks like they're doing...)

well contrary to wildsnow's write up in late 2013, the BD 'carbon' whippet upper is aluminum still. just the lower is carbon. to clarify. The picture above appears to show snapped aluminum. they still sell a two section aluminum one for $99 what weighs an ounce less than the 3 section 'carbon' (that's only 2/3rd carbon at best). unless you really wanted a 3 section pole not sure why you're disappointed with BD.

bump! Lets get jgary re-united with her splitboard!

I too have been impressed by the amount of action it got, kinda cool to see it get climbed ~simultaneously from almost every angle. There were no tracks on cooper's upper top out when I checked and took a pic of it around 10AM (posted in my PG TR).

Nick, It's on the North side (climber left) of the N. Fork ck. Coming from Pamelia, we crossed to the N. side of Milk ck on the PCT, then went up stream, possibly crossing a time or two more, before veering off north. The 'trail' was before the N. fork milk joins the south. You got that right about waterfall-death gully, hah. I probably will never go directly up the gut that way. I have read too many TRs about heinous experiences-no less than 6 or 7 waterfalls undercutting the snow, goats kicking rocks down from cliffs to the south, and ever present hazard if something high on Jeff let go. There were some great pics a few years back from some monster avy debris piled 20ft+ high well into mid or late June at the PCT crossing. I suppose if you hit it fast during the right time it is super direct. That N. Fork way keeps one free of any undercut snow/rock fall..and most avy hazard as it tends to ride up closer to the avy-scoured tree line than down by the creek itself-it would take a monster release to get you--though looking around the evidence is present it does happen.

gotcha. hah, well the one time I've made it to the top was in october. Only had to contend with snow at camp down by shale and coyote lakes and then on the traverse from the red saddle over to the west rib. Though I've climbed the west rib to about 500ft shy of the pinnacle (june, got too hot/slushy, bailed). That said the north fork of Milk Ck actually has a climbers boot track that at least in june had flagging. It wasn't bad really, just a short rough/stout hiking trail that involved keeping a keen eye between obvious sections. My take away is I would love to ski the majority (maybe not the upper-most section) of the west rib if it was in good shape. thanks for the questions answered. congrats on getting high on jeffers none the less, not so common this time of year.

thanks bud! you too. They will be up soon.

Trip: Mt. Hood - Pearly Gates right chute Date: 1/31/2015 Trip Report: Hadn't topped out since I hurt my foot in late 2013, though I had been to the Hogsback a handful of times in the last month+ Felt good to finally get up. Pearly Gates climbers right 'gate' was quite easy. One team retreating from the left gate said they didn't go for the right one due to ice fall. My usual mountain modus operandi tends to be in my head, conservative, and retreat instead of advance if in doubt. However above the berg I kept assessing the ice I saw falling and none of it had velocity really right at the narrows of the chutes. It was only after that when it picked up speed. I only saw small pieces (softball max). I just had a very strong gut feeling about what I saw so followed that intuition. There was perhaps a 5-10ft section at 45ish degrees which was tiered with old steps, and not overly icy. venom picks went in all the way to the head in consolidated snow, and I had not a worry about my alu crampons. One or two higher foot steps and I was through. When I first moved into it I did get about a 30 second deluge of spindrift..but more like icepowder as it has not snowed in ages..and bits the size of marbles. filled every opening on me--I was emptying snow from my pockets 45 minutes later at the Hogsback. But other than that, after about 10ft it opened up, ice risk when to zero. There was a bit of a clear-water ice crust, very thin, above supportive snow. again full confidence with alu pons. descended the old chute as fast as I could. A lot of ice fall seemed to be climber caused, and the chute had a fair number of folks on it. I don't intend to criticise but if someone needs two technical tools with umbilicals to climb the old chute maybe they should re-assess their objectives. My little 2cent soap box, too many people spending way too long exposing themselves to ice roulette under sun-laden rime towers. Spend more time getting comfortable on steeper snow with less objective danger above. Especially when traversing from the bergschrund over to the old chute. was putting on skis when saw the two roped folks fall. When I saw them get air and I about lost my lunch. I had just passed PMR not 10 minutes earlier. It was fortunate they were just hanging at the hogs and to the fallen within a minute. Wishing good healing to them. ski down at 10:45-11:15 was icy and chattery but functional enough. Had a deadline below otherwise would have helped out up top/things would have softened into afternoon. sorry no pics of the gates. Cooper spur looked good. Morning: Hogsback (and PG right) Amigos going for the PG left..retreated Cooper Spur Looking good Summit Beer Photo Ice conditions on upper 200ft of Mnt. Skiski Gear Notes: alu crampons. 2 venoms. whippet and venom. or even standard axe probably would have been enough. Approach Notes: skis

winter jeffers ascent? wowza. Congrats. How was the summit block? gear used? Sorry for 50 questions.. but few more. West Face.. did you go up milk creek/n. fork climber trail? And thus ascent the gully to the north of the West Rib? Ski down same gully? From pics looks almost like you went up from woodpecker ridge TH.. that's an interesting route I wonder..sticks to a ridge the entire time from a TH... cheers!

^this. depending on what demographic you are talking about (and I will attest to at one time having purchased such (and subsequently sold)) a more aggressive tool than I have ever needed. More than once I have seen people with equipment that is entirely overkill for the situation. Sometimes this seems to be driven by 'it looks cool' more than anything. Dual ice tools and umbilicals going up mt hood's old chute? Seen here (lookers left of guy with red backpack). While someone else uses a trekking pole and a standard ax.

Has anyone been on Luetholds in the last month? petsfed: go up the south climb. it is busy, you compromise on that point. But it is easy and hopefully be in shape..assuming we get more snow. I would not touch lueth in june. Unless Ivan's TR called to you, then I would touch it a lot.

bumpity bump bump.. Saw some folks heading Luetholds way last Sunday (1/25/15).. might have been too warm to execute but curious if anyone has been off that way in the last week or two or three. eternal debate in my head of full glacier accouterments for travesing 1500ft (or whatever) of upper reid. Well, the debate is yes, bring it.. but I hate having pickets, rope, and shiz for the other 90% of the route which doesn't require it.

really at a loss for words.. immense appreciation and awe you shared, it is humbling and makes one pause in the best of ways. The lessons learned are distilled and should forever be in mind by anyone who has read them pared with the gravity of your injury.

Oregon has a lot.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Cascade_volcanoes

I believe so, but you'll need to do more research. Matt Bedrin with Skiing Cascadia was on a mission to ski them all in a year. I know he did a handful of them for sure but then frankly he appears to have disappeared off the face of the internet more or less after being active in that pursuit. http://www.wweek.com/portland/article-11655-matt_bedrin.html

mahalo was good to see you guys up there. (us group of 3 drinking beer, me taking beer pictures, my amigo digging your shirts)