YocumRidge

Thanks. I might consider the option later in the season.

Thanks for the input Gene. Yes, the steepness and height of the ridge do decrease if you go left after reaching the top of the snow ramp. We however first went to the right off the rock band - what a tactic error! I tried to lead two lines there (first - 30 ft to the left off the chimney and then the chimney itself): and found dinner plating brittle ice on both. Besides, I suck at climbing overhangs and after both my crampons and one tool popped out and I almost fell , I downclimbed and we retreated to the left side of the ridge. On the climbers left (still west side of the NR) ice was better and somehow climbable (see 3d pic in the TR) but I was wasted both mentally and physically at that point and Oleg did not feel like releading it either so we went around the toe of the ridge to the east side of the ridge (Roosevelt glacier down below). That was a different story - one full pitch of 60 deg of unprotectable ice/snice melting in the sun. If you run it out and get to the vertical ice crevasse dividing east and west slopes of the ridge, you are golden, - and some solid and screw-protectable ice can be found in there. The spine of the ridge was all weird ice and occasionally took screws but I would not simul-climb it in the conditions as of the last week.

So, OMB, did you climb up through that ice chimney? We have seen it too (30 feet, almost vertical) and I was wondering whether this was the exit to the ridge.

No, I do not think so. We made our own in the middle of the crevasse field in between the first set of crevasses and seracs down below (where the army of folks were happily practicing to rig hauling systems). Our strategically chosen site was supposed to be a shortcut to the Roman Nose. And it was.

Thanks Troy! Go ahead and e-mail them to me. We could not find any snow on the ridge, it was all ice and a shitty one at that. Front pointing on the top of the ridge was extremely time consuming and simul-climbing did not go well. It is why I thought we are off route.

Troy, or anyone who has been on the NR: Where on earth we were supposed to look for the Secret Passage in respect to this (Roosevelt Glacier at the bottom of the pics)? Follow the line of seracs on the left (which is currently all ice) or follow the NR itself? Either way it was not obvious to me. I really would like to come back and get it done.

These are two my favorites taken with the Oleg's fancy camera: Good Omen: Patterns:

Thanks Oleg for the original "varlamovesque" writeup! Why do not you elaborate some on your sparkling desire to get back to the car the same day, things like searching for the tent in the whiteout and seeing red animals living in the snow?

Yes, me too, but not for the bailout!

Although close, no sleeping in the crevasse this time, Ivan. Oleg might post a TR when he recovers.

Hey guys, Just had a whiteout/routefinding epic on the North Ridge on Baker and we bailed off the top of the ice ridge where right and left variations merge. We left one MSR 24" picket (whacked in snice), blue cordage and one wiregate. If someone finds it, please let me know. Thanks.

Nice to see Josh you are getting out after your surgery.

Yes, its this time of the year. I am also concerned about dogs.

How come Dane you gave up your principle of 10 min approaches?

White river always opens earlier than the Mowich lake road but did it add one extra day/night to your approach?

No resizing, just plain raw images and no more than 2 Mb.

I am getting consistent "Internal Server error" messages while uploading pics or contacting webmaster. I tried three different macs, various file formats (jpeg, png and gif) and run the latest Firefox but am getting the same thing: misconfiguration, interface problems and "500". It never happened before. I am using the same camera and I can open files on the HD just fine. Thanks

Divorce?

But again, no small sizes. Why is it so hard to make s. 39, less material too?

Now I'll be in better shape for my upcoming Stuart epic. Although Robert Frost is not my fav poet, I can appreciate embarking upon a figurate path that is less mainstream and finding it somewhat rewarding But then again I have a supernatural sense of wrong direction. Good on you guys you did not spend the night by the barbed wire

Did anyone offer to carry your pack as a birthday favor? It looks the largest in the group

Awesome trip How were snowpack and avy conditions by Burgundy Col? What shape is the crossing over Early Winters Creek in? Footlog or otherwise? We will be heading over there this coming weekend.

Ivan has got a designated kite? He is always welcome. Would be cool to learn a new language too. Methinks.

Distinguished bravery deserves honor Thanks for the inspiration, Marc. When I decide to withdraw myself from this existence, I will do that solo too.

only sometimes Next time, Kenny - you come along and aid that hollow crap for us. The good thing is there are no ledges for you to fall and break your back. You will fly straight into the shrund.